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Xbox 360 arcade stick - for the PS3


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#1 morris

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Posted 21 July 2010 - 04:45 AM

A year ago I built my first arcade stick out of a dead Xbox 360 Arcade console. (Pictures are no longer working in that thread because I no longer host the images)

Now I've taken another dead Xbox 360 and made an arcade stick. This time for the PS3.
That's right I have an Xbox 360 plugged into my PS3.

First of all the finished product

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On the left is the PS3/PS2/PC stick. On the right is the Xbox 360 stick that I made last year.

The Parts
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I was better prepared this time after building the last stick. In the photo you can see
* Drill + 3mm, 4mm + 5mm drill bits.
* 30mm holesaw + 22mm holesaw
* Soldering iron, solder, solder sucker, heatshrink
* cutting knife
* my trusty console toolkit with Xbox 360 case opening tool
* 3mm screws
* PCB case feet
* 6x 30mm Seimitsu clear-top screw-in buttons in appropriate colours (I'll explain my choice)
* 1x Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT joystick with mounting plate, joystick wire harness and Seimitsu clear bubble top
* 2x Sanwa 20mm SDM-20 snap-in button
* PS3/PS2/PC board already pre-wired (no longer available unfortunately)
* Dead Xbox 360
* 8mm diameter magnets
* hot glue gun
* wire strippers/cutters
* Tin snips

PCB, PCB case feet, joystick and buttons from in2amusements in Perth
Tools from Jaycar & Bunnings



Preparing the case
First step is to remove the faceplate. Next is to remove the grey plastic top and bottom.
There are 6 points, 3 on each side, that hold the plastic piece in place. Sticking a thin screw driver into key points will help undo them. They are between the filled in holes on the sides

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Once they are done, it's time to take the base off (base when the console is in a horizontal orientation). Underneath the faceplate are 3 points that clip together. Undo them.
On the back are 7 points that all need to be pressed in. You can use a very small flathead screwdriver, but my toolkit came with a took for this purpose

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Case comes apart. The top is screwed into the metal frame. You'll need a T8H bit to remove them. There are 6 in total that hold the metal frame to the top

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The guts of the machine are now exposed. Take out the DVD drive. Remove the PCB on the front of the unit. This controls the power button and the 4 LEDs that give the RRoD. There are 3 screws that hold it in place. Off the top of my head they need a T6H bit.

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Now remove the fan and any other screws holding the motherboard in place. You'll be left with an empty metal case

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The top will have a thin flimsy piece of metal attached to the plastic. Rip it off and discard.

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You have your case.

Edited by morris, 21 July 2010 - 05:47 AM.

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#2 morris

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Posted 21 July 2010 - 05:01 AM

Buttons and Joystick

Using the screw rings from the buttons and the mountplate from the joystick mark the placement of each component. I sat the top part of the case on top of the metal frame so that the case was level. I favour the offset left side buttons while other people prefer the straight alignment. Either way mark the position of each button. I was careful about preserving the words XBOX 360 and MICROSOFT on the case.
I used the joystick hole and the 4 screw holes on the mountplate to work out placement of the joystick. I didn't mount my joystick with the mountplate, I just used it to mark the position.
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Mark the centre of each of the button holes. 30mm holesaw does a perfect job for the buttons while the 22mm holesaw is perfect for the joystick hole and 5mm drillbit for the screw holes around the joystick.
Flip the case over and you'll see that there's plastic bits that will get in the way of the joystick and buttons

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Scrape away at these with the cutting knife and a file until each button hole is clear. Do the same with the joystick.
Remove the mountplate from the joystick, but keep the screws. Mount it directly to the case. The dust cover for the joystick will cover up the screws.

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Screw in the 30mm buttons. For my convenience I marked what each button was and what colour wire would go to each button. I'm aware that the colours of the buttons are not the PS3 colours. I will explain this at the end of the post.

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Now to mount the start and select buttons. I chose to put them underneath the HDD cover so that they are out of the way and aren't visible keeping as much of the Xbox 360 look as possible.
Careful placement means that parts of the plastic cover won't get in the way of the buttons

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Now before I get too far, I screwed up the placement. The cover doesn't get in the way, but I made the button holes too far apart. It meant that they didn't fit into the metal case. I had a spare top part though.
Also I will need to get a 20mm holesaw since the 22mm one is too big for the 20mm buttons. They still hold in place, but they can fall out

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Of course the metal frame needs to be cut to accomodate the buttons. Out came the tin snips.

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#3 Takoma

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Posted 21 July 2010 - 05:16 AM

Needs moar dpad. --edit-- C-c-c-c-combo breaker! And you thought a 5am stealth post would save you :p

Edited by Takoma, 21 July 2010 - 05:17 AM.

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#4 morris

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Posted 21 July 2010 - 05:18 AM

The controller

Now for the heart of the machine. Rather than gut a wired controller, I managed to find one that was pre-wired for the PS2/PS3/PC. All wires except for the joystick also had .110 quick disconnects on the end to make it easier to hook up to the buttons.

First things first I needed to mount it to the case. This is what the case feet are for.

There was one hole in the middle of the PCB which I screwed the PCB to the case foot and I used a second foot to help distribute the weight

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Wires to the buttons were already sorted, but to the joystick was just bare wires. Sanwa JLF-H Wire harness comes in handy. Now with a joystick the switch on the left is actually for the right direction and vice versa. The switch at the top is for the down direction and vice versa. Think about it ;)
I worked out the colours on both the harness and the ones on the PCB, tinned the ends and joined them, covering them with heatshrink

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To make sure that the soldering iron didn't move around too much and that the cable didn't get in the way, I used a bulldog clip to keep the cable in place.
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Now a big problem. I wanted the cable to the console to come out via the power cable hole.

Last stick this wasn't an issue since it was just USB. But this one has a PS2 plug as well as USB. None of the holes were big enough to feed it through so this meant cutting.
First the metal frame.

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Next the plastic. This was a little tricker since part of what I cut is used to hold the top and bottom of the case together

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At this point you can test the stick to make sure that it's all working right.
I sat the top part on the metal frame and hooked up the buttons and joystick

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You can see that it's plugged into my PS3.


Cables through, PCB in place and buttons and joystick mounted and working. The basics are in place. Time to put it together.
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#5 morris

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Posted 21 July 2010 - 05:33 AM

Putting it together

Wire up the buttons. Earlier I marked what colour wires should go up to each button. Each button will have two wires - the colours I marked and a ground wire. The board I used has a common ground, so it's one wire with many connects on it. Joystick connects via the harness that I joined the wires to earlier. I made sure the start and select wires were sticking out through the hole I cut for the buttons, as well as the ground wire too.

There were 6 screws that held the top to the metal frame. After mounting the buttons only 5 of those points are left. Screw them back in, but make sure not to over tighten them. Easy to do. Grey plastic base just pushes back in place on the right hand side (if you look at the Xbox 360 in a horizontal orientation). The grey plastic has the start and select buttons. Put the buttons in and hook up the wires. I put tape around the edges of the hole I cut in the frame to stop any chance of the wires becoming severed.

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Fit it back in place and put on the face plate.
Fully functional stick. But there is something missing

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The faceplate from the DVD drive.

I cut off the excess bit off plastic from the eject button and put a hole in both the eject button and the faceplate, connecting both with a 3mm screw, keeping both parts together.
The plan was to hold it in place with magnets. There's a tiny sliver of the metal frame visible on the right hand side of the hole. The left hand side has plenty of plastic to put a metal piece for a magnet to stick to.

3mm screw in the case where the eject button sits.
Hot glue gun kept the magnets in place The magnet in the eject button sits just inside. The one that sticks to the frame is stuck to the back of the faceplate.

Put it all together and you get the finished stick.

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Why are the buttons in the colour of an Xbox 360 controller when it's for the PS3?
* I couldn't get a clear-top pink button.
* My plan for the future is to make it a PS3/Xbox 360 stick. 360 colours, but with PS3 labels. Makes it clear what button is what just by looking at it.

Which brings me to the very final touch. The inside of each button is just over 20mm in diameter. Photoshop + printer = cheap button labels. To stop them rotating inside a friend suggeted a bit of blutack to hold the labels in place. For now I just used my black laser printer. Later I'll make the labels coloured.

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That's my stick.

Where do I go from here?

One thing I wanted to do was map the PS3 HOME button to the power button on the case. I discovered that the board I bought has no HOME button. I was disappointed to find this and will keep it in mind with the next board I get.

I still want to find a suitable place to put the L1 and L2 buttons. I can't think of a fighting game that needs more than 6 buttons (excluding start and select) so I don't want to mount them with the others. I'm going to look into mounting them with the start and select ones so that they are out of the way.


My next stick will be a PS3/Xbox 360 combo stick from another dead Xbox 360 case. I'm still trying to find the best place to mount a switch so that it doesn't take away from the look of the case. Speaking with a friend (dreamcazman) I'm going to get a terminal block to help keep the wiring neat.
I also plan to make it so that it only uses a single USB cable (Not so hard since PS3 and Xbox 360 use a USB cable).
I want the power button to be the Xbox 360 Guide/PS3 HOME button. I'd love to get the LEDs to indicate which player I am too. I got the guide button to work on my first stick, but the LEDs are quite difficult to solder to since they are very small points.

Been a joy to build and I get a lot of compliments from people that see and use it.
More photos have been uploaded


btw on an unrelated note, I hate waiting 15 minutes between posts because the auto-merge breaks down because it will have too many images in the one post.
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#6 Takoma

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Posted 21 July 2010 - 06:30 AM

Looks good man. I'd have made the PS3 stick with an Elite shell, to match the console's finish, but I imagine they'd be a little harder to come by, no?
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#7 morris

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Posted 21 July 2010 - 11:06 AM

Oooh I didn't think of that. Yes Elite cases are harder to come by. So far I've been given 3 dead Xbox 360s - all predate HDMI and they were either an arcade or a pro. Arcades had a white DVD faceplate, while Pro consoles had silver. That's one difference you can see between my machines. I didn't get the metal frame in one of them so I've really only had 2 to work with.
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#8 SquallStrife

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Posted 21 July 2010 - 12:24 PM

Elites are also less likely to be dead, the RRoD quotient was lower in that model, IIRC. They came before the Jasper units, but had better heatsinks and stuff, I think.
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#9 morris

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Posted 21 July 2010 - 02:04 PM

So... anyone have ideas where I could place the L1 and L2 buttons? at the moment they are loose wires inside the case. To stop any accidental button connections the quick disconnects on the wires have been covered just in case they touch the metal frame along with the ground wire, registering a button press. Also I welcome any other mods I could do to the stick to improve it.
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#10 TazFromOz

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Posted 24 July 2010 - 09:55 PM

Well colour me impressed. That looks awesome. I'd put the L1 and L2 buttons just above the joystick since they're usually paired with it. You could hold them down and use the joystick at the same time.

Edited by TazFromOz, 24 July 2010 - 09:56 PM.

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#11 morris

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Posted 24 July 2010 - 11:32 PM

Interesting suggestion. I never thought above the joystick. I'll look into it. Only concern is accidentally hitting them while using the joystick. But I have a test case that I can try it on. Other issue is that it looks like a lot of space above the joystick, but really there isn't internally. Will definitely consider it. No fighting game uses more than 6 buttons, so using the joystick and L1/L2 buttons at the same time aren't an issue.
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#12 TazFromOz

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Posted 25 July 2010 - 12:34 AM

I never thought above the joystick.


orly?
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#13 Juggalo Scrub

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Posted 25 July 2010 - 10:07 AM

This is what i rock:

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If i was building a stick, i'd be putting the shoulder buttons in the same position.
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#14 morris

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Posted 26 July 2010 - 02:37 AM

That could be another option. Tiny buttons that are harder to accidentally push. Will have to look into it. If I can find small enough buttons, I'll probably put them above the joystick as suggested earlier.
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#15 800_series

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Posted 27 July 2010 - 03:24 PM

The arcade stick that came with Tekken 6 had the L1/L2 buttons next to the R1/R2 buttons, so it was an 8-button setup.
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#16 morris

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Posted 27 July 2010 - 05:05 PM

On my stick there's no room next to R1/R2. I also don't see the point in having 8 buttons since no fighting game uses more than 6. In fact on my Madcatz SFIV Tournament Edition arcade stick, I removed the buttons on the very right and filled them with button plugs. I occasionally hit them when I didn't want to.
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#17 Herpes

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Posted 27 July 2010 - 05:42 PM

I use 8 buttons, binding L2 and R2 to LP+MP+FP and LK+MK+FK respectively. No more whiffed Ultras :)
See you real soon.




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