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#21 aliali

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Posted 11 May 2015 - 12:06 PM

 

 


 

Bought a rattlegun and compressor for $200 (both were on 'end of line' clearance; rattelgun was $16 down from $380, lol), and will do it this weekend.

Bloody Pedders man, I'm tellin ya!


 

Ye some time ago I got a combo deal similar to

http://www.superchea...yId=15WK44TE_01

for around $200.00 odd but it was the 50 piece tool kit not the 26 piece one.

http://www.superchea...Recommendations

Have the air tool kit with the big compressor I have had for several decades (about 400Lpm) down in the main workshop. Small compressor lives in the shed next to the house for a quick tyre pressure check and to blow dust out of computers.

 

Whilst cheap gear, for the occasional use should be fine for me. Already used the rattle gun and air ratchet wrench to replace the shocks on my Hilux.

 

Next up will be CV joints and front half axles on the old 1982 Mitsu L200 farm ute. Going to be interesting seeing if anything is so rusted on it may need gas axing/angle grinding to remove.


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#22 stadl

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Posted 11 May 2015 - 12:19 PM

Got it home, tiny thing compared to what I'm used to, but it seems to tick all the boxes, except it says it is ideal for batteries up to 500 CCA.

 

Any thoughts?

 

 

I have a Projecta C400 it's a small 4A 6 stage charger that I bought about 3 years ago.

 

It's 'rated' for small passenger batteries up to 480 CCA, but the important rating is 4A.

Higher rating might mean reconditioning options if you want to slam the battery a bit, but otherwise, it's just about time.

I think the use the CCA rating to size it appropriately. This charger is intended for motorbikes, jetskis and small passenger cars.

I'd expect it could be used on a honking great 4WD battery and would work, but take several days.

 

After I dropped the forester battery to about 5V leaving the interior lights on for 4 days, it was able to recover that battery to full charge but took about 1.5 days.

That didn't bother me, as I had already swapped the battery out, and was attempting to recover it for a spare/accessory battery (I don't trust any battery taken that low to be 100% reliable, and battery swap is easy decision on the cost vs potential inconvenience scale)

 

It's regularly used for the elise, which will get a low battery if left undriven for more than 3 weeks (at about 3 weeks toruble starting, at about 4 weeks, low terminal voltage causes alarm system to go off - usually in the middle of night of course) - but it can take 6-10 hours to get the small battery from not 'starting the engine' back up to full.

I kinda wish I'd stumped up a little more and gotten the 8A model to get there a little faster. The 4A model can do 1/2/4A, and I never use it on less than 4 for either car, 


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#23 chrisg

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Posted 11 May 2015 - 12:52 PM

:)

 

It does have "some" smarts in there M_S, you really think I didn't already take a look ? :)

 

It's a pretty ordinary looking circuit though except the factory has built with non-identified components :)

 

I'm happy enough to hang onto it because I completely agree with stadl, it's just about time and so long as a charger has enough "smarts" to stop charging when the battery is back to health who really cares? Just leave it go overnight.

 

Interesting that you found a Projecta C400 so recently stadl, it is indeed exactly as you describe it. This little SCA is also 4amp, the C400 happily charged up the wife's battery overnight. My mate does not recall how old his is but he was kinda happy to find it when he was looking here in Oz, he had one back on his farm in NZ and it was often pressed into service to revive the batteries in annual use farm equipment. That sort of says big batteries to me :)

 

It does make me wonder though - every automotive charger I've ever seen, used, owned prior to buying this SCA was a metal vented rectangular cased mystery box with a strap handle, just like the C400 stadl :) This thing is a plastic box not much bigger than say a seven port USB hub, smaller than a typical home router. That's probably why I questioned it :)

 

Actually this little flat battery thing with my wife's car has been dangerous, to the wallet. We have this horribly steep driveway and her car is at the bottom, my car is behind hers. When the Lancer was deemed dead battery I went looking for my jumper leads - hmm, dunno where those went to. So, have a look at how far her battery is from mine and no way to realistically reverse them to be nose to nose and convince myself that not having jumper leads is asking for a Murphy visit so go to buy some leads. 6m, surge protected, jump start the Enterprise now in my boot :)

 

It was then that I realised that having an assistant around would be a good idea to jump start the Lancer, I hear what M_S is saying about being confident around DC but by the same token I once had a loose battery blow holes through a bonnet and saw a mate get a screwdriver welded across the terminals - car batteries do deserve respect.

 

My mate turned up with his charger so the leads are still in the packaging :)

 

Tool tragic - I confess :)

 

Cheers


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#24 SquallStrife

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Posted 11 May 2015 - 01:10 PM

It is done.

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#25 Master_Scythe

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Posted 11 May 2015 - 01:24 PM

I have a LiPo charger for RC cars that can do up to 4A 12V Pb batteries, so I'm used to charging car batteries with small things :P


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#26 stadl

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Posted 11 May 2015 - 01:49 PM

Interesting that you found a Projecta C400 so recently stadl, it is indeed exactly as you describe it. This little SCA is also 4amp, the C400 happily charged up the wife's battery overnight. My mate does not recall how old his is but he was kinda happy to find it when he was looking here in Oz, he had one back on his farm in NZ and it was often pressed into service to revive the batteries in annual use farm equipment. That sort of says big batteries to me :)

 

 

It's a current model on their website

http://www.projecta....px#!prettyPhoto

 

I think I bought mine from autopro.

 

The elise battery is not easy to get to so I have the terminal lead permanently connected and just hook it up when required. Although I plan to change the connector to an anderson plug or powerpole, as the Projecta uses an old Motorola radio style power connector, that's not easy to come by.


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#27 chrisg

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Posted 11 May 2015 - 01:58 PM

:)

 

Same model number, looks nothing like my mate's one :)

 

Dunno, the impression I had at Super Cheap was that they were phasing out Projecta in favor of their own brand and another one that I'd never heard of.

 

In all honesty whilst obviously Super Cheap branded stuff is all Chinese I seem to have bought quite a bit with the SCA label and it's all been good.  forgot to mention that my web search had suggested that I was going to be spending around $100 for a charger, the quite knowledgeable guy at SCA and this conversation has convinced me that would have been over-kill :)

 

My wife, or rather her car, did score a car cover out of the trip and I still had change from that $100, the cover cost less than a trip to the car cleaner so can hardly go wrong. As I said, car has not been driven in a while so covered in dust :)

 

Cheers


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#28 Gas Lee

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Posted 11 May 2015 - 02:31 PM

I always worry about car covers, once the dust and grit gets up underneath them it causes all sorts of terribleness.


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#29 chrisg

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Posted 11 May 2015 - 02:33 PM

I sort of agree on that Gas Lee but in this particular case it will not be being taken on and off much, which is when the problem can happen, It's also a pretty good cover, soft interior, should be ok.

 

Cheers


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#30 SquallStrife

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Posted 11 May 2015 - 03:11 PM

I used to have a cover for my EF wagon, it was made of.... Tyvek, I think? That papery-feeling material that's actually super strong and waterproof.

It was extremely light, I preferred that to a heavy neoprene cover that would rest and rub against the panels.

Granted, no protection against hail, but still a perfect barrier against tree sap, bird poo, leaves, etc.

Edit: Yep, Tyvek: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tyvek

The same stuff they make music festival arm bands from.

Edited by SquallStrife, 11 May 2015 - 03:13 PM.

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#31 chrisg

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Posted 11 May 2015 - 06:59 PM

:)

 

I think we ignored Squall that that is one nice looking shiny car - not my style but, nice :)

 

I'm not  a fan of car covers really but if a car sits doing nothing for a year or two, as in the case, can't hurt is my rationale.

 

It has as a result of this thread struck me that my car is so far overdue for a service that it is not funny - try two plus years - hmm, yet I go check the oil and there is good level and it its clean on the stick, no fluids are low, I do think the plugs might be getting a bit in need of a clean, but honestly, is it distressed ?

 

Nup - will be in this week for a major though, I refuse to mess with brakes and the pads do need replacing :)

 

Brakes are one thing that I avoid, mostly because the fluid is just ugly, ugly stuff :)

 

Can't say I'm a fan of clutches either but if you owned a Mustang, back in the 70s and you had any inclination to drop it at the lights you became used to doing clutch plates - guilty :)

 

Cheers


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#32 Master_Scythe

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Posted 12 May 2015 - 09:00 AM

Brake fluid? I can deal with. Dont get it on the paint, but it doesnt seem to bother my skin or smell bad....

Now gearbox oil, thats another beasty.

 

Last night just replaced my front rotors, new 4Pot brakes\pads, and went back from DOT5.1 to DOT4plus fluid, because my ABS system didnt like the super thin viscosity of the Dot5.1.

 

 

If the oil looks clean, that's usually bad. 

No engine runs clean in a passenger vehicle, Clean oil means not enough Calcium Sulfonate, as nothing is taking the soot and grime away from the engine parts and into the oil.

It's almost never the oil you have to worry about being old, its the additive package breaking down after 6 months.

 

Go throw $65 and half an hour at it.

- Ryco Oil Filter ($15)

- Gulf Western TopDog XDO ($20) (absolute cheapest oil with a known track record for reliability)

- Air Filter ($15)

- NGK plugs gapped to 0.8 ($15)

 

Even if your car specifies a '-11' plug, all this means is 1.1mm gap. Since you're not checking your plug gap, get the 0.8mm and have some 'wear room'.


Edited by Master_Scythe, 12 May 2015 - 09:02 AM.

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#33 chrisg

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Posted 12 May 2015 - 11:27 AM

:)

 

Probably a bad word to use by me M_S, the oil is black but perfectly slippery and the level is right.

 

My car is a Peugeot, 307, Euros have slightly different preferences I've always found, the oil filter, no problem, the only oil I ever use and I'm talking well over 30 years is Penrite, HPR10, air filter whatever, plugs I have been using Lodge too long to change now and I always gap them :)

 

Cheers


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#34 Master_Scythe

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Posted 12 May 2015 - 12:12 PM

Mums car is a peugeot 307 also, I'm very familiar with them :)

It specs a -11 plug, and I run the 0.8's, she's a daily driver and I dont expect mum to check her plug condition every few months.

She was using ELF oil, as its euro for a while, until I got her onto HPR5.

 

I'm pretty sure they specify a 5w-30 oil from factory; going up to a 50W is quite a big jump for a modern car with small oil clearances, HPR5 is a 5w-40, so still thicker, but not by too much.

The additive package (Zinc and Phosphorous) in HPR5 is well above whats found in HPR10 too.

 

 

Still; 2 years? GO SERVICE YOUR CAR *shakes fist* :P


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#35 chrisg

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Posted 12 May 2015 - 12:54 PM

Hmm,

 

I should clarify, 12 months of that the car had very little use, but it does have a lot of ks on it hence my mechanic recommending the heavier oil.

 

I do know though, time to get servicing :)

 

Cheers


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#36 Master_Scythe

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Posted 12 May 2015 - 01:16 PM

a lot of K's is never a reason to 'go thicker' just because.

Especially 20W worth of thicker. that 'Plus 10' Penrite does is just so they can high dose Zinc legally, since there is no SAE requirements for their label system. (i love them too, but they need logic to use them, not their own guidebook).

 

Look at the MSDS between what you're using, and what the Factory oil is. MSDS should have viscoscity at 40*C and at 100*C, you'll be SHOCKED how much thicker a 50W (especially penrite, a VERY heavy 50W, almost a 60), than the stock fill.

 

I'm all for going ONE oil weight heaver in high K cars, more often than not there's no harm, but an extra 20W is a lot.

 

Still, your car, your mechanic, my obsession; I'm not the boss just very opinionated from years on the BITOG forums. :P


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#37 chrisg

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Posted 12 May 2015 - 01:49 PM

:)

 

Dunno, I'll have to ask him, he's a really really good mechanic, Swiss, used to work at Peugeot before he emigrated. The only reason I don't take the car to him for the routine stuff is that he is quite a distance from me and in a very inconvenient location to leave it with him. I make the effort for any major work though.

 

Cheers


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#38 Master_Scythe

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Posted 12 May 2015 - 01:52 PM

HPR5 has more Zinc too :P so better if its 'thick enough' still :)


Wherever you go in life, watch out for Scythe, the tackling IT support guy.

"I don't care what race you are, not one f*cking bit, if you want to be seen as a good people, you go in there and you f*ck up the people who (unofficially) represent you in a negative light!"






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