Need advice for a water cooling HAF X build?, Have HAF X, bored of H80/K920.. want proper water cooling. |
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Need advice for a water cooling HAF X build?, Have HAF X, bored of H80/K920.. want proper water cooling. |
Jun 10 2012, 09:54 PM
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#1
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Lurker Serf |
Pretty much, novice at water cooling.
Had to RMA H80 three times because of issues. Don't like the Kuhler 920. Time to water cool properly! So, I'd mainly like to know whether I should just get an all-in-one kit or choose parts separately. Apparently a 360 RAD will fit perfectly in my case -also wondering whether it is worth going with push/pull instead of just pull or push. Mainly the other question is what pump should I be looking for as a minimum, I'm looking to cool my CPU and 2 6970's. I think that is the extent to what I'll cool with water cooling. Also, I'd like one of those dual reservoirs/pump fittings whether if it comes together or you have to buy it separately.. I want it to fit snuggly in my drive bays! So yeah, probably looking to buy a kit off PCCG but wondering if a kit will be adequate to cool a CPU and Two graphics cards, with only one 360 Rad. My aim overlocking-wise is to get somewhere around <5. Bear in mind I do have an FX8120. So what I'd like may not be possible. But around 4.5 would be cool. Also obviously overclock my graphics slightly too. So yeah, suggestions please and advice.. I am no guru like you guys :) Thanks! |
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Jun 11 2012, 12:32 AM
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#2
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Super Hero Guru ![]() |
XSPC RayStorm D5 RX360 Water Cooling Kit $309
you could go with custom selected parts but this covers it fairly well with a good strong pump XSPC RayStorm GPU Water Block $64 XSPC RayStorm GPU Water Block $64 the gpu blocks will need barbs clamps and extra hose depending on what heatsink is on your 6970 you may or may not need to place new ones on the vrm and memory you cant expect temps to be great though with three things dumping heat into a 3x120 rad unless you use some louder fans than what it comes with but they will make for a good start those prices are pccg but it may be worth checking out gammods and the kool room to see what they have -------------------- 2600k@4.8GHz 1.38v - Z77-GENE - 2x4g 1600 8-9-8 - 7970 1150\7000MHz 1.15v - OCZ Synapse 120g Seagate 2tb - Seasonic XP1000 - Dell U2711 - Pioneer Todoroki 5.1
Storm G5 - MCW60 - EK-VGA HF - MCP355 XSPC Restop - PA120.4 - Scythe GT 4x120 1440/1850rpm http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y83/dasa09/z77rog.jpg |
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Jun 11 2012, 01:11 AM
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#3
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Lurker Serf |
XSPC RayStorm GPU Water Block $64 XSPC RayStorm GPU Water Block $64 the gpu blocks will need barbs clamps and extra hose depending on what heatsink is on your 6970 you may or may not need to place new ones on the vrm and memory Thanks so much for your help! If I were to go with full waterblocks for my 6970, will this system still be adequate? Do I need full water blocks? I have a Sapphire. I don't actually have 2x 6970s at the moment, but want the system to cater for it as I will probably be upgrading to two soon. If I can at least see distinctive temprature results and am able to overclock further then currently, well that's all I'm really after. Mainly, it's just for the look & feel factor.. and the fun of building and designing it :) What about push/pull, does that actually make a difference? |
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Jun 11 2012, 11:54 AM
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#4
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Super Hero Guru ![]() |
you can get full cover but it will cost more than twice as much and you will need to replace them when you upgrade from 6970
unless you find a second 6970 really cheap secondhand from a mate i wouldnt bother adding another your probably better of to just upgrade to a new gpu gpu only blocks are easy and will provide better temps if you can use stock heat plate for vrm if you cant then they are a bit more work most people go full cover blocks as all they care about is the look not temps so if thats what you want and your happy to spend ~$300 every time you upgrade the gpu's for looks go for it push pull can shave of a few c but it also adds more noise just like higher speed fans would and its of more benefit on a rad with dense fins where as the RX360 is fairly open for low speed fans -------------------- 2600k@4.8GHz 1.38v - Z77-GENE - 2x4g 1600 8-9-8 - 7970 1150\7000MHz 1.15v - OCZ Synapse 120g Seagate 2tb - Seasonic XP1000 - Dell U2711 - Pioneer Todoroki 5.1
Storm G5 - MCW60 - EK-VGA HF - MCP355 XSPC Restop - PA120.4 - Scythe GT 4x120 1440/1850rpm http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y83/dasa09/z77rog.jpg |
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Jun 11 2012, 12:10 PM
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#5
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Atomican Charge ![]() |
Yep go with the XSPC Raystorm kit comes with the best pump money can buy, in the res you want and is ridiculously cheap on PCCG, just don't buy the last one as im waiting on buying the new kit myself :P
-------------------- Intel 2500k | Asus P8P67 Pro | G.Skill Ripjaw x 1600 8GB | Inno3D GTX570 | CM 690 II Adv
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Jun 13 2012, 12:55 AM
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#6
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Atomican Journeyman |
yay, great to hear you are getting putting a proper loop in your rig. HAF X's have a ton of room so go for the thickest rads you can fit. a 120.3 rad will struggle though to cool 3 blocks. perhaps look at adding a 120.1 for at the rear or see if you could fit a another rad at the front somewhere, maybe in on of the many 5.25' bays.
xspc stuff is really good value for money. there are some great pump/res kits these days, like this one thats on for preorder at the moment; http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_p...oducts_id=20466 here is a good link also http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=1550744&mpage=1 other w/c sites to check are http://www.thekoolroom.com/ http://www.gammods.com.au/store/ best of luck ;-) -------------------- Q9550 @4.25 w/cooled || Gigabyte P45 UD3-P || 8 gb DDRII ||GTX 480 w/cooled || Lots of HD's, Patriot Inferno SSD || LG W2242T ||
--------------Vantage- P25876-------------------Wprime 32m - 11.765----------------------- |
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Jun 14 2012, 01:49 AM
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#7
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Hero Guru ![]() |
For 3 blocks with 1 or 2 rads, I'd prefer a DDC pump, I found it was better in that situation than the D5, however I think the D5 would do okay with 1 rad and a proper pump top.
-------------------- 2011 Atomic 3DMark & Game Benchmark Rankings !! http://forums.atomicmpc.com.au/index.php?showtopic=41178
Current PC (no lie) Athlon XP-M 2400+@2640MHz (3d) / Abit NF7-S2.0 Vmodded / 1Gig OCZ Gold EL GX BH-5 / ATI Radeon 9800XT@500MHz |
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Jun 14 2012, 06:08 AM
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#8
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Super Hero Guru ![]() |
or if you get the koolance 24v version of the d5 and a controler to run it at 24v then it will beat the ddc for head presure and flow but it would also make more noise when at full speed and use three times as much power
-------------------- 2600k@4.8GHz 1.38v - Z77-GENE - 2x4g 1600 8-9-8 - 7970 1150\7000MHz 1.15v - OCZ Synapse 120g Seagate 2tb - Seasonic XP1000 - Dell U2711 - Pioneer Todoroki 5.1
Storm G5 - MCW60 - EK-VGA HF - MCP355 XSPC Restop - PA120.4 - Scythe GT 4x120 1440/1850rpm http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y83/dasa09/z77rog.jpg |
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Jun 19 2012, 07:34 PM
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#9
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Lurker Serf |
It's official, I bought the XSPC RayStorm D5 RX360 kit from PCCG.
Picked it up today along with the EK UV lime green pre-mixed coolant. (and some UV lights) One litre should be adequate yeah? So let's hope the radiator fits! (apparently it does) I did some research before buying it and apparently it's a great kit like you have said. I think just for the time being it will be solely a CPU loop and then I'll go from there, expensive kit! But it's awesome to just buy one thing rather then several and trying to mix and match. At least this way I'll know it'll all work in harmony lol Is there a problem with draining the coolant then recycling it through the system? Pretty exciting, can't wait to start installing and then I'll post pix when it's complete! |
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Jun 20 2012, 12:21 PM
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#10
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Atomican Overlord |
personally i wouldnt use that uv coolant....
do yourself a favor and do some research on uv coolants and staining, clogging etc. the kit is excellent value for money and a great way to get started. good luck and take your time. share pics. -------------------- 2500k @4.8ghz 24/7/ P67M-Pro / 8GB 2133mhz ballistix /GTX680 / 3TB / 6 Vraptors raid 0 / Lian Li PC A04
Q9550 / P45 UT T2RS / Rampage Extreme X48 / 6950 2GB crossifre / Danger den rack |
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Jun 20 2012, 08:21 PM
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#11
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Lurker Serf |
personally i wouldnt use that uv coolant.... do yourself a favor and do some research on uv coolants and staining, clogging etc. the kit is excellent value for money and a great way to get started. good luck and take your time. share pics. eeek I was excited for a uv lookin' machine. Are you talking about EK's coolant specifically or just any UV coolant or any dyed coolant? Not sure I wanna do the research haha.. don't wanna find out that I bought the UV lights and UV coolant for nothing. Especially how I have clear tubing too. I assumed since many water cooling companies make the parts so I thought the coolant would be okay to use within their systems too. : \ :( irrelevant edit; i just looked through the forum navigation a few times.. where the hell do people post pics of their builds/setups/rigs etc? This post has been edited by ellipse: Jun 20 2012, 08:26 PM |
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Jun 21 2012, 11:58 AM
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#12
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Atomican Overlord |
not just ek's coolant generally all UV coolants cause clogging and stain your tubing after a time (~3months) it means you will have to clean out your loop more regularly if you want to maintain performance/cleanliness.
generally, we use uv tubing now such as primoflex over uv coolant. in the long run it'll cost less to get new tubing over buying new tube and new coolant. the coolant wont hurt your parts, its the way the parts are designed the pins/fins or whatever layout of a water block results in flow resistance and helps the clogging to occur (after all it isnt straight up water you are outting in your loop) most of us use distilled water (can get it from woolies 4L for a few dollars) and liquid utopia, which kills off bacteria and algae if you decide to chance tubing youd need this size any colour in that size. Post 'build log' thread in building troubleshooting and mooding. that's where most do it! -------------------- 2500k @4.8ghz 24/7/ P67M-Pro / 8GB 2133mhz ballistix /GTX680 / 3TB / 6 Vraptors raid 0 / Lian Li PC A04
Q9550 / P45 UT T2RS / Rampage Extreme X48 / 6950 2GB crossifre / Danger den rack |
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Jun 21 2012, 04:39 PM
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#13
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Lurker Serf |
not just ek's coolant generally all UV coolants cause clogging and stain your tubing after a time (~3months) it means you will have to clean out your loop more regularly if you want to maintain performance/cleanliness. generally, we use uv tubing now such as primoflex over uv coolant. in the long run it'll cost less to get new tubing over buying new tube and new coolant. the coolant wont hurt your parts, its the way the parts are designed the pins/fins or whatever layout of a water block results in flow resistance and helps the clogging to occur (after all it isnt straight up water you are outting in your loop) most of us use distilled water (can get it from woolies 4L for a few dollars) and liquid utopia, which kills off bacteria and algae if you decide to chance tubing youd need this size any colour in that size. Post 'build log' thread in building troubleshooting and mooding. that's where most do it! Okay, awesome cheers for the advice :) Might have to make another stop at PCCG then! Then again I do have clear tubing and coolant.. may as well just use it now I guess and then when I decide to clean - I'll just swap the the tubing over to the UV tubing and then just use distilled water and that utopia stuff. I literally thought that the 'coolant' had some ingreadiants/properties which improve the water cooling temprature and keeps it cooler like automotive coolant.. I guess computers don't need it to that extreme though. That's kinda the main reason I went with the coolant as well. I guess it's kinda pointless buying it then if it isn't for the premix convinience. Also, I was browsing alot of cool water cooling accessories (my, there is quite alot), would it be worth it if I made a 'drain line' and had it coming straight out the back of the case through a PCI slot? With like a shut-off/release valve out the top to allow it out when it's cleaning time? Now I want to get a water flow indicator too just for the looks.. and a temperature sensor (this screws into the extra hole on the reservoir on the back correct? (I think mine has 4 holes 3 + 1 draing plug) ahh so much stuff. So much money. I guess I just got myself into another costly hobby haha. What about those quick release connectors that don't leak? Two of those would make it so much easier when it comes to cleaning time, does it obstruct the flow much? Pretty neat little accessories.. also like that air release valve for built up pressure. Cool! |
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Jun 22 2012, 09:30 AM
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#14
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Atomican Charge ![]() |
The coolants are ok to use, alot steer clear because as everyone has said they get gunky, but all that means is you will need to drain and replace liquid more often, say every other month instead of 6 -12 months with distilled/deionized water. So once you have used your coolant maybe then buy your new tube and water.
I know what you mean by expensive, as i said before i was going to buy the same kit but the ex240 version, but i just ended up buying it all custom which bumped the price $100. Drainage plugs are common and will make draining easier, not sure on the air release valve... you should be able to do that just by opening the res. This is only stuff i have found from research, this will be my first loop as well, so good luck with it. -------------------- Intel 2500k | Asus P8P67 Pro | G.Skill Ripjaw x 1600 8GB | Inno3D GTX570 | CM 690 II Adv
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Jun 22 2012, 05:28 PM
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#15
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Lurker Serf |
The coolants are ok to use, alot steer clear because as everyone has said they get gunky, but all that means is you will need to drain and replace liquid more often, say every other month instead of 6 -12 months with distilled/deionized water. So once you have used your coolant maybe then buy your new tube and water. I know what you mean by expensive, as i said before i was going to buy the same kit but the ex240 version, but i just ended up buying it all custom which bumped the price $100. Drainage plugs are common and will make draining easier, not sure on the air release valve... you should be able to do that just by opening the res. This is only stuff i have found from research, this will be my first loop as well, so good luck with it. Yeah I'll do exactly that. :) Guess I'm sticking with 7/16 tubing and fittings since that's what came in the kit and I just ordered 6 more compression fittings. Also just ordered a Bitspower water flow indicator!! Why? Because I think watching a little ball bearing fan spin as water rushes through is cool to watch ahah And yeah a Koolance Drain plug. Just to make it a little easier to drain my system. Already dreading the day when I have to do that haha. Now some more waiting :( |
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Jun 28 2012, 03:43 PM
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#16
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Lurker Serf |
Theres a lot of nonsense about dyes in my experience. Ives used the Prim Chill dyes from gammods extensively and have had no clogging whatsoever. This includes opening up my XSPC Rasa block to check for build up when i have expanded my loop. When i first got into wc i used the thermaltake coolant, now that stuff left a lot of gunk in my cpu block so i could steer clear.
I wouldn't worry about needing to clean out your loop every month or two. I just added a new rad and a second pump to my loop and did a full breakdown to inspect everything. Zero build up of gunk and the distilled water was still the same colour it was when i first added the blue dye in September, the last time i broke the loop down. next time you drain the loop get some silver kill coils for anti-bacterial and dye if you want colour and use distilled water as its about $2.5 for 2 lt from the supermarket. The value of push pull fans is dependent on how much you want to spend. I've got my 140 only on push, but both my 240s on push pull, more because i ended up with extra fans. Enjoy custom watercooling, you'll get hooked like all the rest of us!. |
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Jul 1 2012, 09:07 PM
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#17
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Lurker Serf |
EVERYONE I'm doing my water cooling loop now.
Being the noob I am, I have no idea WHICH is the PUMP output and the input of the D5 PUMP DUAL RES. Can someone quickly confirm if it's the top or the bottom? I think the top is the input for "just cooled radiator coolant" and the bottom is the direct pump output. But that's my guess. ANY IDEAS???? http://www.google.com.au/imgres?um=1&h...29,r:6,s:0,i:92 ^ Picture Link. This post has been edited by ellipse: Jul 1 2012, 09:08 PM |
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Jul 1 2012, 09:15 PM
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#18
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Super Hero Guru ![]() |
if its anything like my xspc res it cam with a manual... although being clear mine was rather obvious
http://www.xs-pc.com/manual/d5bayres2.pdf This post has been edited by Dasa: Jul 1 2012, 09:16 PM -------------------- 2600k@4.8GHz 1.38v - Z77-GENE - 2x4g 1600 8-9-8 - 7970 1150\7000MHz 1.15v - OCZ Synapse 120g Seagate 2tb - Seasonic XP1000 - Dell U2711 - Pioneer Todoroki 5.1
Storm G5 - MCW60 - EK-VGA HF - MCP355 XSPC Restop - PA120.4 - Scythe GT 4x120 1440/1850rpm http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y83/dasa09/z77rog.jpg |
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Jul 1 2012, 09:15 PM
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#19
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Lurker Serf |
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Jul 1 2012, 09:27 PM
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#20
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Atomican Charge ![]() |
If its the same as mine from a few threads under this one, the bottom is the inlet and the top is the output.
Edit, just looked at your pic and what i said is right. This post has been edited by stash: Jul 1 2012, 09:28 PM -------------------- Intel 2500k | Asus P8P67 Pro | G.Skill Ripjaw x 1600 8GB | Inno3D GTX570 | CM 690 II Adv
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