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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/07/19 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    RX 5700X under water https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=el&sl=de&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.tomshw.de%2F2019%2F07%2F08%2Famd-radeon-rx-5700-xt-mit-einem-ekwb-rx-5700-problemlos-auf-21-ghz-uebertaktet-wasser-sei-dank%2F
  2. 1 point
    It's giving the 2080 a proper flogging. Also... Radeon Image Sharpening tested. Is superior to DLSS
  3. 1 point
    sure. my confusion was the ambiguity of that device's pins, and wanting to be careful about the prospect of you unintentionally seeming to advocate for the disconnection of the TV's earth, in the event it was actually earthed. @Kimmo, since "This shitbox thing isn't earthed" it must have a floating ground reference. theres probably an inverter inside producing very high AC voltages with respect to the "0V" present at the fattest copper traces of the power board and ground plane. i have NFI what potential might exist between the TV's faux "0V" and earth, but connecting them together would be a very bad idea. "He died in his La-Z-Boy, Kentucky death-row inmate style, the over-ear headphones which had delivered the lethal shock from a faulty television set, now fused to the still smoking melted flesh of his face" :D
  4. 1 point
    Yes, the earth/ground is common to both the input and output of the filter. Remember at this stage, it's all still AC, so you have active, neutral and earth. After going through the filter, you still have active, neutral and earth, with 230V AC RMS between active and neutral - neither is connected to earth. But the filter will reduce noise between active<->earth and noise across neutral<->earth What this means, is that if you have an appliance that is never never connected to the mains wiring earth, these filters won't help as much - there is a small amount of filtering across active<->neutral. An earthed appliance does not just mean an appliance with a metal case connected to earth. The protective earth may be present in an internal chassis or PCB - so long as an earth is present, these filters will offer their designed protection. But the give away is that if there is no earth cable on the mains lead (it's a 2 pin/2 wire lead) then there must be no protective earth used in the circuit - which is quite safe for a double insulated device - and in that case, introducing an earth to the device would be dangerous. But using a earthed filter and not connecting the earth would be ok. Reminder, this is still working with dangerous voltages, and if you are not sure of what you are doing and your assembly skills, don't try this.
  5. 1 point
    drop one of the mods a message - i had the same problem! couldn't remember my password and the email account was with a provider i no longer used, and therefore the account no longer existed... Nich was kind enough to replace the email address for me, and let me sort out the rest... as far as phones go, i've run both iOS and Android, both have their pros and cons... i have used an iPhone as my personal phone since i got a 3GS.... upgraded to a plain 4 (not even the 4S), then to an SE... the first SE i made the mistake of pre-ordering... it arrived in the mail... vibrate never worked from day one and then less than a year later the charging port crapped out... bought a second SE, this one is working much better and has already outlasted the first... i don't update my iOS (as it has been proven that apple deliberately slow down older tech with new updates), so it still works as well as the day i got it... and i will keep using it until i can't anymore... i am hoping they bring out another smaller phone, and i will probably upgrade then... if not, fiik... i am really out of the tech loop these days... but then i dunno if i could actually say i was really in it, Atomic was far more of a social thing for me - while i knew what all the parts where and could build a nice gaming box from scratch, i rarely strayed outside of the Green Room... hell i stumbled across the IRC channel by accident, and was active in there for a good amount of time before i realised what this thing called a forum even was... i still run Win 7 and have zero plans to upgrade lol...
  6. 1 point
    It's unlikely it would have something like that in it. Budget devices are not known for having much filtering, and if they do, it is more likely a couple of extra components on the PCB rather than an off the shelf module like that. At 6A, it's good for about 1300W (at Australian Voltage) - more than enough for a TV and even a few home theatre devices except maybe a honking great A or AB class surround amplifier - and if you have one of those you probably aren't using a budget DSE TV :) If the device is double insulated (no earthed chassis) then best not to change the earth design. If it is using a figure-8 power lead, or a power lead without an earth pin, then forget using one of those filters, as they work by filtering common mode (line to ground) noise. If you have no ground on the power to the device, then there is no way for a line-ground noise signal to be the issue that this can fix. But if the device has a earth pin, and it's connected to some part of the PSU electronics - it may help, but no guarantees.
  7. 1 point
    They should cope if it was a small brownout. If it is switching noise then it may still crack the shits because the cheap PSU would not regulate well and the switching noise gets through onto the digital circuit boards that are expecting nice constant DC. I would strongly discourage changing capacitors in switching PSUs unless you know what you are doing. The old upgrade the caps fix is fine in linear power supplies where the capacitors are used to smooth the power. In that case it only holds the voltage through the fully rectified sinewave. Most of the time, the larger cap just means instead of going from 100% down to say 30% each cycle, it goes from 100% to 60% so it has more reserve capacity, and also because of the drop-off rate, the output voltage ripple is much lower. Under that upgrade, the capacitor change doesn't materially change the circuit design, other than slightly increasing the surge current into the capacitor (through the transformer and rectifier) for the first half sine-wave after power is applied. Switching power supplies are more complex, and their frequency, stability and efficiency can all be linked to the capacitance and inductance of parts of the circuit. Upset the efficiency and it may not operate within the thermal specification and could overheat leading to a bad day. In many designs it might be safe to upgrade the final stage smoothing capacitors. but other capacitors that are part of the switchmode circuit, much less safe - what design is it, and what is safe - hard to tell, so I'd be for not changing them. If it is an external PSU brick, then you could build a smoothing capacity circuit (electrolytic in parallel across the connection from the PSU to the device), but if it has an external PSU, you are probably better just trying to find a replacement from another device for testing - unless it is some odd-ball voltage or connector. DANGER WARNING ******** 240V construction!!! Do not consider unless you know about safe construction of 240V wiring ******** If it was me, I would consider building a budget 240V mains EMI filter to put between the cheap device and the power point and hope that cleans up the power enought for the shitty PSU Whack one of these in a a box with a GPO outlet or IEC Female panel mount, and you have an in-line filter. https://www.jaycar.com.au/240v-ac-emi-filter/p/MS4001 or https://www.jaycar.com.au/iec-emi-power-line-filter-6-amp/p/MS4003 I have a similar one for my HT system, but the filter I bought cost about $80. Disclosure: EMI filters exhibit a small amount of earth leakage by design - if you use too many of them , or a very sketchy safety switch, they can trip it - but these small ones are fine.
  8. 1 point
    It's an interesting thought on the power systems these days. A brown-out/power sag, is usually observed as an under-voltage event - either a straight voltage drop caused by power factor issues, or generator variances or a temporary capacity drop due to overload. If you exceed the capacity of a power source, the terminal voltage starts dropping. In days gone bye, many appliances were voltage sensitive, so when the circuit got overloaded, and supply voltage started dropping, some of the appliances would switch off, and thus you effectively have some load shedding that then addresses the overload Modern switch mode variable frequency and voltage PSUs will happily continue to generate load. As the voltage goes down, they just draw more current to keep the same power drain (watts) - so no serendipitous load shedding happens. Probably not that common on the mains, but certainly very easy to have happen with battery systems. e.g. a DC-DC converter plugged in to a car battery may happily suck the 12V battery to 3V or lower while delivering the output voltage to the device if it doesn't have low voltage cut-out on the input that would prevent the rechargeable battery being depleted to to the point it can't be recharged.
  9. 1 point
    When you say 'drops out' is it 1. The TV controller freak out/crash (conducted/mains noise) 2. The tuner that stops receiving signal (likely TV RF interference, although it could be getting in through the mains) 3. The TV powers off then on (brownout) - if so the wiring/switchboard in your house might be under specification if a local appliance is causing this. Mains Power conditioner can be an interesting term. There are levels of conditioning. Many are just analogue filter circuits that clean up the mains to remove induced/conducted noise from switching, motors or data appliances - let the 50Hz through, but stop the higher frequency junk and cost from a few dollars to a few hundred dollars and price should reflect performance (although your need may not justify top performance). A double conversion conditioner (not cheap options) will also correct voltage and frequency variations. This is all separate from surge/lightning protection filters which get rid of dangerous spikes - and of course many power conditioners include those, as they start with a $1 part but surge protection bits are usually self sacrificing, while filtering is continuous and non destructive. None of those conditioner devices address a brown-out where there is loss of power. If it is RF interference, then you will need a filter between the antenna and the TV to try and block the interference. Switching noise will be tough, but might be improved by a bandpass filter that reduces the noise outside the TV bands and in theory should improves performance within that band - but results may vary. A mats-head amp may also help if you are in a weak TV signal area, and by the time the signal from the antenna gets to the TV is is close to the noise floor - having a stronger TV signal will improve the TV's ability to decode it) If it was a specific and persistent interference from an appliance you would get a notch filter to take out that specific signal - but it doesn't sound like that. A UPS will address brownouts of course, and many UPSs include some power conditioning capability as part of their design, and they can be applied in a number of ways - to condition the noisy mains - to clean up the inverter waveform when running (either continuously in a double conversion, or for line-interactive part)
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