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Everything posted by Redhatter

  1. Redhatter

    iPod Nano Watch Cases

    What weirdo wears a watch on their hand? I wear mine on my right wrist.
  2. Redhatter

    Can't transfer files over 1tb

    How dare you! I demand you retract this slanderous comment! I actually didnt expect such a fast response, and had to wait to hear back from the old man. Slanderous in what way? There was no acknowledgement of the queries until now, and one key one was how this 1TB of data was being copied over, and what the effect was. I can understand there being a delay in finding this information out, however a lack of any kind of feedback, even a "I'll check up on this" can go a long way. In any case, the comment is posted now, and you yourself have quoted it. It is impossible for me to retract as I do not have permissions to edit your post.
  3. Redhatter

    Blast from the Past II: 286 build

    Hmmm, that video card looks familiar... Good to know the monitor works though, and I did wonder about the RCA jacks. The monitor and video card came with my old 286 that SquallStrife has now. I had it running Windows 3.1 with the EGA card, but it ran better with the ET4000 I put in there. As for the DIP switches, they may have been inadvertently bumped in storage, which could explain why they needed some fiddling. Nicely done though. Shall be interesting to see the rig put through its paces.
  4. Redhatter

    Just buy a mother-flippin' light!

    Indeed... there is no way in hell that I'd choose to take on a car door. My first preference would be to avoid it. But, given the load I carry on my bike, I think I'd do more than scratch the paintwork if I were to collide with an open door. Saying goodbye door is in all probability, an overestimate of what would happen. Yes, it'll make a mess of the bike, it'll make a mess of me, and all my gear. I don't think the door would come out unscathed. I for one, hope I never test the hypothesis however. It's not worth the pain IMO.
  5. Redhatter

    Just buy a mother-flippin' light!

    Guess if it hasn't happened in 28 years, it can't possibly ever happen, right? I'm going to leave this discussion there, and let you mull over it for a bit.
  6. Redhatter

    render using atoms insteadof polygons, in games

    Hmm, real as in the square root of -1?
  7. Redhatter

    Buying electronics from overseas

    The thing to be mindful here, is that as you're importing a device intended for a different market, you really do need to do your research as to whether that device will (1) work as intended, and (2) not cause problems. Things to be mindful of: Power requirements: A device intended to run on 110V only, will smoke when you plug it into 230V. (Rare these days, since most power supplies are switch-mode today and can run ~90V to 250V no problems.) Communications standards: e.g. in the US they use ATSC for digital television, here in Australia we use DVB-T, in Europe they use DAB for digital radio, here we use DAB+. There's also a digital broadcast radio standard called DRM which is mainly used with Shortwave stations. Emissions: Some countries are more lax about conducted and radiated emissions permissible from a device than here in Australia. Operating Frequency: For wireless equipment, different countries have different spectrum allocation arrangements. e.g. in some parts of the world, 147MHz is an ISM frequency but here in Australia, that's smack bang in the middle of the FM part of the 2m amateur band, and you'll get fox-hunted should you try using devices such as cordless headphones, etc that use that frequency. In NZ they use 26MHz for HF CB whereas we use 27MHz here in Australia. In the US, 220MHz is the 1.25m amateur band, whereas here, IIRC it's in the upper VHF television frequencies. Telephony devices: Any equipment that is to be plugged into the Public Switched Telephony Network must carry the ACMA Regulatory Compliance Mark. There are a number of other traps one can fall into. Interestingly, it is not illegal to own a device that falls under one of the above categories, but it may be illegal to use it. One really does have to do some homework … if you're unable to, then you should question whether importing the device yourself is such a good idea.
  8. Redhatter

    Apple is .6 more evil than the devil

    Could be … a lot of these phones have sizeable flash storage these days. As I say, I'll stick to the ZTE I have thanks, it may not do the really fancy stuff, but 600MB is more than half the quota I have on the phone.
  9. Redhatter

    Hands free music controll app

    Makes me wonder why these companies don't expose those buttons via some interface for end user purposes. You'd think exposing those as a Bluetooth device and having a plug-in that can be installed in your media player of choice to enable control from those buttons would be a hit with some drivers.
  10. Redhatter

    Hands free music controll app

    Perhaps the problem is not so much the buttons, but their location. Fumbling for buttons in traffic is bad, you need to know exactly where they are without looking. I wonder if there's such a thing as a numeric keypad that can connect via Bluetooth, you could mount that somewhere handy on your dashboard, and programme up your media player to respond to those keys. That or if your device has USB host capability, use that. I've got a similar problem using the radio on the bicycle. In fact, fumbling around for buttons is highly dangerous in traffic in my case, as my steering will be more unsteady one-handed. My solution: Most of the radios I use have a remote capability on the hand-microphone. In the case of the Yaesu FT-290RII and the Kenwood TH-F7E, both have up/down buttons for changing channels (on the Kenwood, they're programmable). The Yaesu FT-8[159]7 have up/down and a third "fast tuning" button on the handmic. The solution for me was to mount a small panel on the handlebars, one button for PTT, and four direction buttons: At the moment, none of my radios use the "left" direction button, but a homebrew set that I build, might. Up/down go up and down in frequency, and on the FT-897D, pressing the right-hand button toggles "fast" mode, or holding it down powers the radio on/off. The buttons could equally be used to control a media player, e.g. "PTT" becomes play/pause, left/right becomes prev/next track (or seek), up/down becomes prev/next album, etc. Something like that, positioned close to, but out of the way of your usual vehicular controls might do the trick for you.
  11. Redhatter

    Post Your Latest Real Life Purchase!

    Haven't bought yet, but I've just sent an email asking for a quote to purchase one of these: Largely because I've been using this on the bike, which although good for what it does, is a heavy lump of a radio. Update: Purchased it today ... turns out someone had bought one thinking it was a land mobile HF radio, so $1003 later, and one should be on its way from Hervey Bay tomorrow.
  12. Redhatter

    Can't transfer files over 1tb

    Atomic is relatively quicker than most other computer forums, I've found. Depends on your timezone I suppose … at 4:00AM (UTC+10) this site crawls along. I know, I used to get up at that hour regularly.
  13. Redhatter

    No signal Detected

    Care to elaborate on the "having trouble booting"? I lost my crystal ball in the floods. I might wear a pointy hat but I'm no wizard.
  14. Redhatter

    Can't transfer files over 1tb

    Well, evidently the OP is an ask-and-run type, not sticking around to read the answer or give further detail… Back when I used to participate on IRC, it was one of my pet hates, was the person who wanted an immediate response 24/7.
  15. Redhatter

    Apple is .6 more evil than the devil

    And the crummy ZTE I have does pretty much everything I need it to do. Up the top of my list being able to make and receive voice calls, send/receive text messages, and tether it for an Internet connection. It can even keep people informed on where I'm located, so they don't have to ring me up to find where I'm at: It also doesn't need to spend 60% of my mobile Internet quota for system updates. Oh, and there's no such thing as an "Android" product. In this case chrisg was talking about a Samsung product, which isn't any more an Android product than this MacBook a (Gentoo) Linux product, or most peoples' computers on this forum, Windows products.
  16. Redhatter

    Just buy a mother-flippin' light!

    ROFL … or should that be, FOMBLMAO (Fell Off My Bicycle Laughing My Arse Off). Of course, and because they ditched the bicycle, the US is now the shining light in economics and employment… Errr, hmm okay, let me get back to you on that one.
  17. Redhatter

    why i cant sell without 128 posts

    Careful, he'll probably charge >$100 postage.
  18. Redhatter

    Queensland Government Payroll System

    From what I understand… the government were told the system was not ready. They decided to press on with it anyway, and are now paying the price. One of my work colleagues when I was working at Jacques is closely connected with a few of the people who worked on that payroll system project. According to him, there was apparently lots of known issues and missing functionality at the time, but people managing the project decided to go full steam ahead and #### the icebergs. Now the payroll system is listing badly in the water with a nasty gash down its side.
  19. Redhatter

    Change riding styles by changing your bike

    Once again, seehund make a subtle point. He hates cyclists. If he didn't, you'd be sure to see "good company" in that last sentence. It's posts like this that sometimes make me wish web forums had a killfile like good Usenet readers do.
  20. Redhatter

    Just buy a mother-flippin' light!

    Like car doors making a surprise entrance ? :P More like car doors making a surprise departure… (~90kg of rider, 12kg of radio equipment, 2kg of computer equipment, 30kg of bicycle… travelling at 30km/hr… yeah, it'll make a mess of me, but it'll make a mess of a door hinge too.)
  21. Redhatter

    Ram - It's just incredible!

    Perhaps something not quite seated correctly? Remember you're dealing with very high bandwidth data links that must work 100% of the time. Things can get very finicky when you run at those sorts of speeds.
  22. Redhatter

    Change riding styles by changing your bike

    I have two bikes. The first one I bought, actually the first bike I bought myself (previous ones were supplied by parents) was a Dahon fold-up. When I got this, I was very nervy … not just because of the bike's size, but also because I hadn't ridden a bicycle seriously in years. I used to ride between home and my primary school daily, but I had now outgrown that one, so this was more or less its replacement. When I'm riding this one, I tend to avoid any main roads where possible, going via the footpath. In fact, almost all my riding was done on the footpath at this point. I originally bought it with the intent of being able to take it with me on the bus. When I rang up the Brisbane City Council (at the time they ran the buses), I was told that this was permissible, provided it was folded before boarding. So I walked up to The Gap bike shop with helmet and $600 cash in hand and rode home on it. It was the sort of stepping stone I needed. Before long, I was taking it on the bus less, and riding the entire distance from The Gap to the Brisbane CBD. 12 months after I got it, I put it in for a service, as there were a few minor issues developing. The bike shop at The Gap had now moved to Newmarket, down the end of Ashgrove Avenue. One turned out to be a broken component in the front stem where it folds down — causing the handlebars to rock backwards and forwards. When I got it back, that was fixed, but the problem had returned by the time I got back to The Gap. I had been considering a more capable bike at this point … the little one has a 105kg load limit, which meant I could not carry much. Two things I specifically was looking for: disc brakes, and suspension. I stopped off at Ashgrove and had a look. After discussing with the saleswoman there, I put a $50 deposit down on the Giant Boulder I have now. I then rode the now slightly dickey fold-up back to Newmarket to get the problem sorted again, took the bus into town, drew out the remaining $450, caught the bus back to Ashgrove, then paid the rest of the funds and rode home. Now, with this bike, I felt a bit more confident on the roads. Not by much mind you initially. At first I found it a bit difficult as I was sitting hunched over further forward than I was used to. The bike initially was my week-ender, I still rode the fold-up on a regular basis. Then came a bombshell in the form of an argument with Translink. Despite having done it for 18 months now, I was suddenly told (verbally) that despite the bicycle being smaller than most suitcases when folded, it was no longer welcome on the bus. There went the one main reason I kept riding the fold-up, and its prime advantage evaporated right there. So I started riding the other bike more often. It became my main bike of choice. Being larger, I felt more comfortable on the road, or going at speed. My riding style did change a bit, from being highly timid sticking to the footpath, to riding on the main road, albeit still being cautious about my actions. Where as previously at the base of a hill, I'd look for a driveway to get off and start walking, now I tend to try and tackle the hill head-on, although in many cases I will still do so on the footpath unless the road is sufficiently wide. Before my maximum speed seldom exceeded 30km/hr, now it hits about 50km/hr. I still work on the principle that I give way to everyone however, especially motor vehicles. As for my choice of clothing … I feel I'm better off not subjecting Brisbane's traffic to the sight of my hide clad in lycra. I opt for day/night high-visibility work clothing as I find it lasts longer than casual clothing (cycling is particularly rough on the crotch of trousers) and enables me to be seen. I find overalls are also good at hiding my true body shape, and have loads of pockets where the phone & wallet can reside without risk of either falling out and hitting the road. The helmet I wear is in fact a motorcycle helmet, not dissimilar to those worn by the average postie. Some would call that overkill. I figure if I'm going at 50km/hr, I'm in no less danger than a motorcyclist, and perhaps I value my brains more than some. If it's raining, I also find the visor handy (something I've never seen on a bicycle helmet), and the peak provides good shade. It also cuts down on the wind-noise, enabling me to be able to hear somewhat better. I would prefer to go at a somewhat slower pace at times … when I'm on the bicycle path, my speeds tend to average about the 20km/hr mark or so, faster at times. On steep pinches, I'll slow down to around 5km/hr, and yes, I will tend to accelerate downhill. (but not to 92km/hr… unlike what my phone's GPS reckons) I try to go for conservation of momentum where I can, so if there's an opportunity to gain some, I will generally try to capitalise on it, but only if the conditions allow it. Conservation of momentum is not an excuse for running a red light, or mowing down a pedestrian. I try to keep up in traffic only as a courtesy to drivers, otherwise I'd prefer to go with the flow. These days, I only use the fold-up when I need to take the other one in for servicing. I try to do this once every 12 months. At the moment I work from home, so it's only the once-a-week ride from The Gap to Tarragindi that it sees, about 22km. In the past however it was not uncommon for me to do over 100km a week. That takes its toll on components. Usually what happens is I hitch the bicycle trailer to the main bike, then place my fold-up in the trailer. When I get to Ashgrove, I unhitch the trailer, drop the main bike off, then pull the fold-up bike out, hitch the trailer (somewhat dodgily; the towing hitch is on the main bike) to the fold-up bike, then ride home. A day or two later, when time, I do the reverse. It is when on the way back from dropping the other bike off, that I particularly notice any changes. For one thing, the fold-up has no indicators, and so I have to give hand signals. I also notice I'm less stable, even when not trying to signal. The fold-up also has the more traditional rim brakes, which I find tend to be less effective. As a result, I tend to ride slower, and more cautiously when on the fold-up. I also tend to avoid long distances. So yes, I can say empirically, it does make a difference. :-)
  23. Redhatter

    Build log: 60W 2m linear amplifier

    Some may recall me asking about heatsinks a little while ago. The one I ordered turned up on Wednesday, after a mishap caused a minor delay. As people asked me to post pictures when I had everything built, I thought I'd post a bit of a build log. Perhaps it might inspire some to take a radio license and join in the fun. The following is a duplicate of http://stuartl.longlandclan.yi.org/blog/20...-2mlinear-day0/ Background A few months back, I grabbed the trusty FT-290R II ready to do my weekly run from The Gap to Tarragindi. Quick test to check everything’s okay… the power meter swings to full scale, but strange, I’m not hitting any repeaters. Okay, grabbed the FT-897D instead, and I just did my weekly radio duties with that instead. When I came home that evening, I had a closer look. The FT-290R II was emitting a signal, the hand-held was picking that up. It was also receiving just fine. On a hunch I took off the FL-2025 linear, and hooked the antenna up directly to the radio. Bingo… the radio works, the linear does not. So, the linear had died, and thus I was in need of a new one. Hand helds really don’t have much punch for mobile use, in fact, the FT-290 has been brilliant on the bike. Not menu driven, so it’s real easy to drive while riding, simple, no frills, and sufficient grunt to get out of a bad area. It also does SSB (and CW, but I’ll leave that to LY2KW). I could buy a new set, in fact, I may get a FT-857D, as the 897D is a heavy lump of a radio to lug around, and there are times when HF capability is useful. It is less than ideal on the bike however due to its size and weight. There was nothing wrong with the FT-290, just its linear was dead, thus I was limited to its barefoot transmit power of 2.5W, even less than most handhelds. So, I decided I’d try my hand at a semi-homebrew linear amplifier. The concept I wanted an amplifier that could achieve at least 25W of transmit power using SSB. As I’d likely use it for things like WIA broadcasts, I wanted one that would also handle transmitting for a long period of time. Designing a full blown amplifier on 2m is a bit beyond me with my limited homebrew experience. It is also an issue sourcing the PCB material needed for VHF projects. A lot out there call for FR4 grade fibreglass PCBs. I have no idea what Jaycar sell. So this was going to be a potential minefield. Thus, I opted for a kit. Minikits sell one based on the Mitsubishi RA30H1317M. The same kit, can also take the 60W module, which sounded good to me. Most of the time I’d be running it at 30W, but having 60W capability sounded good. I purchased this, along with the 30W module as well just in case. I also thought a pre-amp would be nice. The same supplier sells this preamp kit. The kit also offers RF sensing, which would allow the amplifier to auto-detect the radio transmitting, and switch into transmit mode automatically. This also allows for filtering, to prevent reception of pagers (not fun copping an earful of one of those when you’re wearing a helmet-embedded headset riding a bicycle). Cooling Minikits recommends using a Pentium 4 heatsink for 30W modules, however it wasn’t clear if this would be sufficient for 60W modules. I wanted the amplifier module to stay below 100?C while operating with ambient temperatures at 40?C. Pretty sure I don’t want to operate a radio under such conditions, so it should work fine in all conditions that I’m likely to encounter. The amplifier module is about 45% efficient, thus about 135W is dissipated when operating at full power. By my calculations, I was looking for cooling that can provide 0.22?C/W. A quick search revealed that I could get one via Conrad which in the open air achieves 0.84?C/W. Combined with a fan, it can achieve 0.24⁰C/W. Jaycar sell this fan, which is quite capable. In fact, two of them will fit across the back of the heatsink, so with dual fans, I should be well and truly within limits. I placed the order for the heatsink a fortnight ago. Due to a mix-up, I didn’t get it until Wednesday, but that’s fine, I wasn’t in any hurry. With the heatsink now in my possession, I today headded to Jaycar to pick up some of the bits and pieces I’d need for this project, starting with the enclosure. One thing I did neglect to procure today, were the fans… but no biggie, I’ll get those later. Prior work Well, technically day one was some time ago. I had already mostly built the amplifier kit, and the preamp. The preamp got built way back when I first obtained the kits. The power amp was built later, however the instructions suggested that I wait until I have the amplifier module mounted on the heatsink before I go soldering it to the PCB. Day 1 Having got the heatsink, enclosure and tools, I set to work. Initially I positioned, drilled and tapped the two M3 holes for mounting the amplifier module. I haven’t tried putting the amplifier in place yet, but it looks like the holes are positioned pretty well. My plan, is to bend the pins on the module at 90⁰ and mount the PCB horizontally. Both module and PCB would be passed through the side wall of the enclosure, with the heatsink outside. I originally wanted the heatsink inside the case (with vent holes), but of course, Jaycar are not good at providing internal dimensions, and I soon discovered it’d be awkward to fit. It took a bit of experimentation to cut the hole in the side. No, I won’t be winning any prizes for my metal work, in fact, it never was one of my best subjects. Next steps: My immediate next step will be to mount the amplifier module, solder it to the PCB, and mount the PCB inside the case. Then I mount the heatsink and fans to the case. I have a controller that I have designed at digital logic level, however I’ll need to do some further design work to make sure it’ll do what I intend, before procuring the parts and building it.
  24. Redhatter

    Build log: 60W 2m linear amplifier

    The following is a duplicate of http://stuartl.longlandclan.yi.org/blog/20...-2mlinear-day1/ Well, today I did some more work on the 2m linear. Earlier this week I ordered some SMA connectors and some 1N5711 diodes for the project. Two 1N5711 diodes will be used to make a voltage peak detector, to detect when the amplifier is subjected to power above 60mW. The SMA connectors will be the interconnects between the modules. This afternoon's effort was spent soldering the SMA connectors onto two of the boards, and mounting the 2m amplifier module onto the heatsink. The EME157B2 preamplifier kit was originally intended to be mounted in a masthead box, with BNC connectors soldered to the PCB, and stuck up a pole near the antenna. In my application, I wanted it to be in the same enclosure (with suitable shielding) as the power amp, so that I could use its RF detection to automatically switch the power amplifier on. I will also be using different relays, mounted on a separate board. Instead of mounting the SPDT relays for the kit on the EME157B2 board, I've instead left these off. I also omitted the 2N7000 MOSFET which turns on the relays, and L4, an RF-blocking choke which permits the preamp to run from a 12V source supplied up the coax. I instead will power the preamp directly. Since the relays will be on a separate board, the plan is to run wires from the gate and source connections where the 2N7000 belongs, and run those out to a controller board. With the relays gone, the RF detection and the preamp are essentially two distinct circuits. So 3 SMA connectors will be needed. Here is the completed board with the SMA connectors fitted, and suitable jumpers installed, ready for tuning. Completed 2m preamplifier. Connectors going left-to-right: Antenna input, Amplifier output, RF detector input. Next, I finished off the power amplifier board, mounting it to the heatsink. I have left one EMC filter disconnected for now, as the instructions say to power it up first with it disconnected to set the trim pot for 4.5V bias. Rather than mounting the board flat on the heatsink, I have instead opted to mount the PCB at 90⁰ to the module. I had to make the supplied eyelets a fraction longer to accommodate this. I also mounted SMA connectors on this board. Completed 2m power amplifier. RF input is on the left. The plan is, I'll route RG195 coax on the left side to a small module which will contain the overload detection circuit and two SMAs for an external attenuator module. On the right, a low-pass filter will be connected. I also had a stab at tapping holes into the sides of the heatsink for mounting a bracket. This bracket would hold the fans on top, and would bolt onto the main enclosure. In doing this, I managed to bugger up two of the 8 holes, and thus what I'll probably do, is buy a M4 tap tomorrow, drill them all out to 3mm and tap them to 4mm. These are structural holes, so bigger is probably better anyway. Much of today though was spent designing the controller. I'm still finalising the design, but a rough schematic is below. 2m amplfier controller So, not yet going, but big parts are built now.
  25. Redhatter

    why i cant sell without 128 posts

    If you want an account where you can start selling immediately after sign-up, talk to eBay, et all. This site is an online community first and marketplace second. Wouldn't matter one way or the other. If people were allowed to go post for-sale threads immediately after sign-up, you could bet your bottom dollar the thread would be full of one-off accounts posting advertisements, and the moderators would have a full-time job keeping up with it. Your motives might be noble enough, we just need 128 posts to decide. And if you read the fine print, the responsibility is already taken off the Atomic forums website. See above, leaving it wide open leaves it open to abuse by those who just want to sell stuff, and not be community members. By requiring 128 posts (mostly quality posts), it becomes clear that the person is willing to be an active community member, and their loyalty is then rewarded by being able to participate in Trademart. Mmmmm, at the right price, it'll be gone via eBay in less than a week. On this site, goods have been known to sit there for a month unsold. eBay, constantly viewed by people looking for goods. This site, only seen mostly by this community. You decide whether the "fuss" is worthwhile. Seems you're making an awful fuss trying to do it here.