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leonhart83

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Everything posted by leonhart83

  1. Hey guys, Here are my computer specs i5 760 evga p55 ftw corsair 450W 8gb of corsair ram ati 4890 Just recently I purchased a cheap Vivo 40" Tv from DSE for my xbox and PC gaming. I had issues originally with this setup through the HDMI where the montior would keep dropping out as if losing signal and regaining signal. I used a different HDMI cable which seemed to fix this issue. Now with the new cable I am sometimes coming back to my PC and noticing that the sound through the HDMI/4890 says it is unplugged. The video is still going through the HDMI as I can see but the sound will not working until I unplugged and re-plug in. Even after disabling and renabling in playback devices. Any ideas on how to fix this? EDIT: I haven't noticed it EVER dropping out when I am actually using the PC, only when I come back from not using it for a while (I don't turn this computer off)> Thanks, Micky.
  2. leonhart83

    Audio stops working through HDMI.

    As I stated in the first post, I originally had a display issue that was fixed by changing HDMI cables to a new one. I did a test that I ran throughout the day where I used the original cable (the one with the shitty display) and it did not drop the audio. So I have put and order for a new 1.4 HDMI cable that I think will fix the issue. I am currently it in a workaround configuration until I can test this more. It looks like it might just be two dodgy ebay cables that is the culprit. Thanks, Micky.
  3. leonhart83

    Audio stops working through HDMI.

    Yeah I haven't had any luck with the above posters ideas. It still doesn't seem to want to work. I will try yours this afternoon. I have bought a HDMI switch so that I can switch between the TV and my computer monitor so in the worst case scenario that your idea doesn't work I will have a workaround. TBH I don't feel very confident, as it is coming up as unplugged in the playback menu. Maybe when changing it to default it attempts to bring it up again. Who knows. Yeah the option for making it the default is greyed out because it has detected it as being unplugged.
  4. leonhart83

    Audio stops working through HDMI.

    Yeah I haven't had any luck with the above posters ideas. It still doesn't seem to want to work. I will try yours this afternoon. I have bought a HDMI switch so that I can switch between the TV and my computer monitor so in the worst case scenario that your idea doesn't work I will have a workaround. TBH I don't feel very confident, as it is coming up as unplugged in the playback menu. Maybe when changing it to default it attempts to bring it up again. Who knows.
  5. Hey guys, I acquired a Dell Optiplex 980 recently and I wanted to use it as a media centre. I bought a HIS 6570 to put in there for the HDMI port for connecting to my Sony Muteki and for some light gaming. I bought the HIS 6570 because it had a passive cooler and came with a low profile plate etc. Unfortunately the HIS 6570 comes with the a giant HS, which makes it unable to close the case on the Dell. I had two options MOD the HS which meant that I would lose over half of it or getting a smaller HS with a fan. Seeing as though the card gets pretty hot, I assume that it using the sheer surface area to distribute the heat I think the HS & FAN is probably the safest way to go. Does anyone have this card and done a similar mod? Anyone have any ideas? I currently have it in but with the case side just resting on top. Because the case has contact with the HS it is really hot as well. lol. Thanks, Micky.
  6. Hi guys, I am trying to use an old pc that I no longer use as my HTPC so that my current laptop (m11x) can retire and I can use it as it was first intended A LAPTOP. Here are the specs. 5600+ AMD 2GB ram 500gb seagate HDD 500gb Wd HDD 240GT nvidia Video Now when this PC was being used by my wife it was stacked with HDD's and every now and then it has some horrible what sounded like scraping at the time (although I don't think it was). So I thought it was a good idea to backup all the important stuff. In the meantime I removed all of 80 and 120 gb hard drives and just have what is above left. Anyways the computer wasn't used for much so that is when I got the idea. Anyways I use XBMC to stream off of the other computers in the house (which is what I did previously with the m11x) and when I do that scraping/staticy noise returns. So I thought wow it must have been the boot drive that is causing the issue. So I Norton Clone the first onto the second and tried booting from the second drive. It had the same issue. I copied a movie locally (it was going crazy whilst doing this). Played the movie locally (NO NOISE). Played the network version (CRAZY NOISE). So it seems like there is an issue with the NIC on the motherboard. I have never heard of this issue at all, is it at all possible. unfortunately I can't just get a PCI NIC because the only available slot doesn't seem to work. Questions 1. If I am getting all this noise whilst using the on board NIC, would it be safe to just disable the NIC and use a USB NIC (Ihave one of these)? 2. Has anyone ever come across this? THanks Mick.
  7. leonhart83

    Weird problem. Is it safe.

    Even if the USB NIC works fine, I wouldn't trust the motherboard to last much longer. If you want to go with a new motherboard, I can probably get a manufacturer refurbished one from my supplier for you if your interested? Just PM me and I'll send you my email address. Hopefully shouldn't be overly expensive, and I should be able to warrant it for you. I will do some more testing over the weekend and get back to you. Na mate it isn't coming from through the speakers just form the box. It honestly sounds a lot like the mechanical scrap like from a dead/dying HDD but I have tried 2 different HDD's that do the same thing. And it only happens whilst I am copying across the network, which is most cases is streaming from my server. For example when I was cloning the boot drive to another drive which took roughly 1 hour there was not one single noise, even though it would have been getting smashed with read requests. I can watch a movie locally from the C: with no noise, stream the same movie across the network and scraping appears. Hopefully that makes it a little clearer.
  8. leonhart83

    Weird problem. Is it safe.

    I agree that it doesn't sound like anything that i have heard of. I will try the USB nic this afternoon (as it was at work) to see whether it alleviates the problem. I honestly think that it must be something wrong with the motherboard as it is integrated. Which is the reason why I am wondering that it is safe to continue to use. If it was the hard drive it would make noises when locally reading and writing to it. It only happens when I am reading over the network. Does anyone know of a good place to get a replacement motherboard for a good price. AM2 sockets are fairly old so I wouldn't want to spend heaps on it.
  9. Hey guys, I just purchased a Plantronics Gamecom 777 headset and I am getting some weird issues with playback. There seems to be popping and crackling whilst playing sound. First here is my computer setup. Windows 7 64bit. EVGA P55 FTW i5 760 Corsair 8gb ram. 4x 2tb Seagate Barracudas 1x 1tb Samsung spinpoint F3 Corsair 450w 4890 ati Now for the people who aren't familiar with the headset it is a 7.1 surround (virtual) using a USB soundcard that you connect the 2 3.5mm (one for sound one for mic) to it. Things I have tried. 1. Bypassing the USB Sound card and plugged straight into the computer (this works fine no popping but is pointless having this headset without it) 2. Tried another PC (there is no popping or crackling even when using the sound card). 3. Tried updating the Ati graphics drivers/realtek HD drivers. In case the inbuilt sound (even those these are disabled) were issue. This did not fix the issue. 4. Tried another Set of Gamecom 777's from a friend, his had the same issue on my computer, but not on the other test PC, so this rule out an issue with the actual headset. 5. Tried directxwebsetup to see whether I had the latest directx, also there were no problems detected in the dxdiag. 6. Tried multiple different USB ports front/back all with the same issue. 7. Tried disabling all other sound devices, all enhancements. Things I have noted. 1. There is feedback in the speakers even if no music is playing, as in when I roll over my systray icons. Strangely this is only apparent when I have applications open that might be accessing the sound driver i.e winamp, youtube etc. If I have nothing opened the feedback is not present. Anything else to try would be greatly appreciated. As I am lost for ideas atm.
  10. leonhart83

    Plantronics Gamecom 777 issues.

    That +12V, if it is reading correctly, is a bit of a worry.I would try another PSU if you can get one. Otherwise see if you can try a live Linux CD of some kind, to see if your windows installation is at fault. You could also try a PCI USB card to see if the usb ports on your computer are at fault. I don't know how reliable speedfan is for voltage readings. I will try my USB 2.0 card tonight and get back. I don't have a powered USB hub to try will try and track one of them down.
  11. leonhart83

    Plantronics Gamecom 777 issues.

    I have tried all possibilities of combinations of headphone and USB dongle. I forgot to mention my USB configuration. 1x 2tb external powered 2x 1tb external powered 1x Belkin KVM (with my wireless mouse and keyboard through that) I have also tried unplugging all but my mouse and headset dongle and have had no luck, it is still doing it. http://social.technet.microsoft.com/Forums...c-469a6d48fdda/ I have done a little research into DPC latency it using dpclat and it seems mine latency sits around 150-300us. Although the application says it is within the normal environment for streaming audio (I am assuming it is talking about jitter, OWD). My friend did his PC and said his was sitting in around 70us. My Speedfan readings for my power supply are below. VCC3V: 3.20V Vcore: 0.58V VDDA: 2.03V +12V: 9.15V Vdimm: 1.68V VLDT: 0.94 VCC1.5V: 1.3 VSB3V: 3.3V Vbat: 3.10V I have also come across this. http://www.head-fi.org/forum/thread/434034...r-distort-issue This is a really confusing issue for me. I also have just tried disabling Speedstep in the bios to stop the fluctuation of the CPU speed as per one of the above links and it didn't seem to fix the issue.
  12. Hi guys, I was looking to get a new laptop to replace my old HP, 2.0 dual core, 2gb ram, 8600GS M 17 inch screen, and I was wondering whether there was a mini laptop that could play at least some games. Games I would be looking to play www.leagueoflegends.com www.heroesofnewerth.com TBH I don't know whether there are any mini laptops that have ability to play games. Any feedback would be good. Thanks.
  13. Hi guys, I just recently bought a Seagate 2tb USB 2.0 external from officeworks for $117 and I plug it into my machine (see specs below). I also have 2x 1tb Seagate 2.0 USB externals connected as well (3 drives total). Since connecting the 2tb to my pc it seems to drop out and in within about 30 minutes. It does this constantly almost without fail. I have also notice (not sure whether it was always happening or just started) that one of the 1tb drives drops out at the same time as the 2tb. When it drops and and back in again it shows the usual autoplay message as if you had just plugged it in fresh. The only thing I can think of is that there is too much draw on the USB controller (although these drives are not active during this i.e Tx or Rx) so I switched the 2tb to the front USB and still had the same problem (not sure whether this on the same controller). The other thought is that all these hard drives have their own power supply none should be drawing any power from the system. I have a 2x USB 2.0 card that can be added to the motherboard that I am going to install this afternoon and hopefully just have the 2tb connected via this. Hopefully this will fix my issue if it is a issue of too many HDD's connected to 1 controller. At first I thought that it might just be a faulty 2tb drive until I notice that the 1tb drive is doing the same. All three drives are relatively new (3months, 2 weeks, 1 day) . Any help would be greatly appreciated. Computer: i5 760 @3.6ghz 8gb corsair 1600 1tb Samsung internal Corsair 450w ati 4890
  14. leonhart83

    USB External HDD Problems.

    I agree. I have disable the option "turn off disable to save power" under USB Root Hub (I have about 8 or so listed in the device manager for some reason). But this did not fix the issue. I don't know whether it is some internally configured "sleep mode" or whether it can be disabled. The reason I am doubtful of this is before I started using the 2tb drive the 1tb that seems to be affected "some" of the time, didn't have any issue beforehand. I will investigate this though as I really would like to know whether I should be returning the HDD or whether it is an issue with my PC. Thanks, Micky.
  15. Hey guys, I just bought a new machine within the last month specs below. evga ftw p55 760 i5 4890 ati 8gb Corsair 1600 c9 ram 1gb samsung. I have found twice now that whilst playing an online game called "league of legends" that my sound drops out. It is system wide so when the game finishes my sound is not working. Things to note. - both times it happened was playing the same game. - both times it happened I was using headset and mic in the front connection of the case. - the sound still seems to register in the system (volume indicator moves up and down) - no sound from rear connection either once sound drops out. Is there anything else I can test? I have done some looking online and there is 0 other people having the issue. I was thinking it was either the game has some bug in it that is causing an issue (although it is pretty much the only game I play lately, so the odds of it happening even if it isn't the game are high to happen whilst playing this). Or it is some issue with the case connections with the motherboard. The later being a less chance because like I said the rear direct connection to the motherboard still doesn't work. This has only happened twice in a month though, so it isn't happening all the time. Any help would be greatly appreciate.
  16. leonhart83

    Sound dropping out.

    installed latest driver from realtek directx is up to date. tried back connectors but sound was a little low for comfort. still dropping out. have tried reseating the connector. any other ideasy
  17. Corsair VX-450 ATX 450W Power Supply 120mm fan Samsung 1TB Spinpoint F3 SATA II 7200RPM 32M Antec Three Hundred Tower Gaming Case- Black Corsair CMX4GX3M2A1600C9 8GB (4x XMS3 2GB) PC-12800 Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus Universal Cooler Intel Core i5 760 Processor LGA1156 2.8GHz 8MB Cache CPU eVGA P55 FTW(132-LF-E657-KR) 1156 4xDDR3 2600+ SLI 4x Coolermaster 12cm Fans (3in case 1x attached to other side of CPU heatsink) 4890 ati. I have checked the temperatures in speedfan of the CPU (if there is a better free application let me know) and they sit around 20C average and not deviating much when playing games. I heard that people have overclocked the i5 760 well and without too much effort. My problem is I have no experience and wouldn't know where to start. Is there quick overview? I remember there being a tutorial in one of the recent magazines, but I can't find it. Any help would be good. Especially from someone who is familiar with the eVGA P55 setup. Thanks, Micky.
  18. Hey guys, I am running windows 7 64 bit with 10.11 catalyst drivers and my games are having issues with the shadows. League of legends doesn't show them half the time and nba 2k11 also doesn't show them either at all or correctly. Is there anything that I can try? I have a ati 4890 graphics card. If I put my performance to Highest Quality, it seems to improve the chances of their being shadows in the game but they can be glitchy. Thanks, Micky.
  19. Hey Guys, I am looking to get a new gaming PC as my current rig can't play COD BO. I have a budget of about 800-1000 bucks. Basically the only part in my computer that can be used to save money if need be is my ati 4890 graphics card & 500gb HDD. So if people don't think that I would get much benefit from upgrading then just let me know whether I should just transfer this over to my new rig. Questions. 1. About a month ago it seemed like the best graphics card for value was the Nvidia GTX460, but with the ati6870 been release recently it seems that it might be the better card for the 300 price mark. So I am a little torn what to aim for. So are one of these cards recommended? 2. The Atomic MPC magazine still recommends the i5 760 as the recommended CPU and sites like Toms Hardware believe that this CPU is the last CPU that people should invest in as any greater the dollar per performance suffers greatly. I really thought that people would be recommending the x6 amd core. Any suggestions or recommendations here? 3. Motherboard wise for the intel AtomicMPC recommends the gigabyte UD3R. Is this still the best value for money motherboard atm? I read someone on the forums warning about the USB 3 and PCI-E x8 issue. I am a real noob when it comes to motherboards especially matching ram. So any help here would be good too. 4. As I said before I am hopeless at working out how to get the most from your RAM motherboard. The recommended again from the magazine is the GSkill ripjaws. They seem to be expensive and my experience with GEIL has been really good. So I will probably look at this brand unless people suggest otherwise. 5. PSU - Another hard one. It seems like most systems nowadays only need a good 450W power supply unless SLI/Crossfire. No idea here other than the ones recommended in the magazine. I have some other information that I have been researching but I was hoping not to screw anyones thoughts with my suggestions, I really wanted to see what people thought the best PC you could buy around the budget I suggested. I say this because I have seen similar posts like this where people take what the person has said and just alter the really bad choices. I can't tell whether they person assisting actually thought they were the BEST choices. I have the normal stuff like Razer Keyboard and sidewinder mouse, dvd drive, but other than that (or what people suggest I use from my old rig) I will need everything else (so new case etc). Any help would be good.
  20. leonhart83

    New Gaming Rig Under $1000

    Did some research online almost everyone said it will be fine. Using the corsair calculator it said I would be able to have 3 hdd and heavily overclock with no issues
  21. leonhart83

    New Gaming Rig Under $1000

    Ok so I put the order in. I am a little nervous though, because as always when you buy something you read something that makes you shit bricks. lol. I read that the ati 4890 requires 550W minimum to run. That sounds rediculous. I have only purchased the Corsair 450W in the list. Have I made a mistake? Thanks, Micky.
  22. leonhart83

    New Gaming Rig Under $1000

    Corsair VX-450 ATX 450W Power Supply 120mm fan $82.00 Samsung 1TB Spinpoint F3 SATA II 7200RPM 32M $57.00 Antec Three Hundred Tower Gaming Case- Black NO PSU $59.00 Corsair CMX4GX3M2A1600C9 4GB (2x XMS3 2GB) PC-12800 $79.00 Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus Universal Cooler $34.00 Intel Core i5 760 Processor LGA1156 2.8GHz 8MB Cache CPU $213.00 eVGA P55 FTW(132-LF-E657-KR) 1156 4xDDR3 2600+ SLI $139.00 Total $663.00 Ok so I will probably order this PC from Umart on the weekend. All items are currently in stock and it is $29 delivery. Some notes on my decisions. 1. I decided to stay with my ati4980 as I only just got it recently as a present for being an MC for my best mates wedding. I am pretty impressed with its performance and still rates fairly high up on the toms hardware list of graphics cards (along side the 5770 which is recommended in the atomic magazine). It is also a deciding factor in keeping my pc cost down. It also leaves me open to buy a newer better graphics card for a lower price by using the theory "the longer you wait for an upgrade the better price you will get on performance". The theory stands well for me better to upgrade when you need to then when you want too. 2. I have gone with the Corsair 4GB (2x2GB) instead of the 8GB memory set, one because it is cheaper per GB, it isn't overkill (I could upgrade to 8 later) and finally the item it available now. Could some with more knowledge let me know whether I would notice the difference between the CMX8GX3M4A1600C9 and the one that I am hoping to purchase. I am hoping the cheaper ram isn't some low performing feature set to bring the price down. 3. I went with the Cooler Master Hyper 212 over the Zalman, mainly because it is available from Umart and is cheap. Hopefully it will perform at least as well as the Zalman that was recommended. 4. I went with the eVGA motherboard because it had crossfire. Although I would have liked USB3.0 I am not sure whether I would use it. In saying that I am not sure whether I would use crossfire either. If someone could help me make this decision it would make me sleep a little easier. I know of the brand gigabyte and I consider them a quality brand. eVGA I haven't really heard of but was recommended here. The gigabyte is slightly cheaper too. hmm. 5. I decided with the Antec case just because it was heaps cheaper and I have seen quite some good reviews. Kind of any easy decision I think. When I have some more money to splurge maybe I will upgrade this. Finally for people who have some experience with Case Fans any brands/model that you recommend would be good. Ones that would be good in the case etc. So yeah just two little hiccups/decisions let. Gigabyte/eVGA 4GB/8GB. I would just like to say thanks again guys for all your help. I am almost there. Micky.
  23. leonhart83

    New Gaming Rig Under $1000

    Hey Dasa, Should I just stick with the Gigabyte one that you originally mentioned if I don't CF? The reason that CF is an option is because I know that my friend might be selling his PC soon so I might be able to pick it up cheap. Although this is an option, if people weren't yelling at me to DO IT, I would rather have less things that can go wrong and go with one card. So that ram looks like a good price + whatever board you think will be better for the single card use + the other recommendations should be a sweet build. Do you think that the Silent FDR R3 is worth the extra money over the Antec 300? Although I like the silent option I don't know whether it is worth the double price. Thanks everyone for your support.
  24. leonhart83

    New Gaming Rig Under $1000

    That is exactly what I was looking for thanks. I have a few questions though. 1. I mainly buy from Umart as they are slightly cheaper and have good service, plus they have the gear in stock. The only downside is that they don't have the Corsair 4GB CL 7 that you mentioned. CL7 seems low compare to the other 4GB chips on Umart so I was wondering whether there was any other ram that is recommended. 2. If was to be able to get another ati4890 card to run sli how much would I have to change the above build to suit. Is it worth the hassle? Or should I just run the single card ati4890 and then do what was mentioned above and wait before spending roughly 300 bucks on a GPU.
  25. leonhart83

    New Gaming Rig Under $1000

    I have the below: 5200 athlon x2 2gb of generic ram 500gb seagate IDE 4890 ati graphics Yes a new case would be good I run 2x 1080 24" widescreen benq's
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