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About mauler87

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  1. Not sure if this is the right place to post this but I saw troubleshooting so here goes nuffin. Ok so I have built my new pc (in my crappy sig) which is a major upgrade over my previous e6850 p35 build. I have been told my PSU isn't enough by a mate which can't be right as I've run the large fft prime95 test alongside multi-gpu furmark stability test and I can't reproduce the "display driver stopped responding and has been recovered" error. I've used memtest86 and the memory diagnostics with 64-bit vista. The only time the driver has stopped responding is due to 2 games, Starcraft 2 and Star wars: Empire at War (such a golden oldie), Anyways I have updated drivers to the most recent and even tried previous nvidia drivers and still got the problem. I ran driver sweeper in safe mode each time and rescanned after cleaning and manually deleted the files that sweeper was unable to (this solved not recognizing SLi in the beginning too). Crysis warhead goes like a beast without a hitch which is what baffles me about this error I'm getting. One possible cause I'm trying to rule out is the SLi bridge (thank god for ebays listing of 100+ sli bridges) just waiting for them to arrive I bought 4 as theyre cheap as chips at the moment. Another thing is that the cards are from different vendors, one is palit with their beastly aftermarket cooling and the 2nd is an XFX core edition that I picked up from ebay that came with the aftermarket arctic cooler. Both have the same amount of vram same clocks which I changed to 696 core 1249 mem 1525 shaders. I have tested both these cards individually with much higher clocks and they have no issues at all =/. The only difference between them is the XFX card is longer by about half an inch and the SLi brackets dont line up between them even after reseating multiple times I figured it's just the pcb am I correct? (hope thats correct). The bridge that came with my MB is a non-flexible one but the brackets arent too out of line that I can't get bridge on using no force at all. The space difference horizontally is about 2-4mm, But still I purchased the bridges just in case. The only problem I get during games (only starcraft 2 actually) is that the screen will flicker black but not fully cover the whole screen for about .10 secs and this happens maybe once or twice during playing that game, the other games I have don't get that issue. I have ensured the gpu's are functioning in SLi and that my memory timings and speed are correct 4gb corsair XMS 9-9-9-24 @ 1500mhz due to my bclk I can't adjust to the 1600mhz with this boards BIOS. I've even tried the cards without any overclock just at stock speeds and the problem remains with those 2 games I get the driver stopped responding error. I've reseated the bridge upside down and I get strange colours (16-bit blue and purple) and that also happens when I seat the bridge in any position up or down on the brackets at the rear of the cards, So for now its placed on the brackets closest to the front of the case. During full furmark load the cards with a 700core and 1550 shader hit about 62 on the XFX card due to the sweet cooler and around 75-80 on the Palit card due to ambient temps here in the tropics, Before I picked up the XFX card I had no problems benching on the palit card with the OC clocks. Both are stable with power and clocks and heat as the GTX 275's can endure a fair bit. Another thing to add is my PSU is a 64a on the 12v single rail and I'm pretty sure it can handle my system as I stated before the prime95 alongside the SLi furmark test didn't make the driver hang, unfortunately gpu-z for these cards only shows the VDDC which is 1.17v for the XFX and 1.18v for the palit. Any help or insight would be of great benefit and sorry for dragging this post on and on.... Cheers, Rob. P.S. I'm using the newest 260.99 nvidia drivers.
  2. Ok this took me a full day (I was tired =p) of troubleshooting to get this sorted. I noticed after installing a new mobo that my centre speaker/channel was having a strange distortion when playing certain media/games, after much troubleshooting I found the centre onboard port was not functioning correctly on my "brand new" DFI LanParty DK P55-T3eH9. Having downloaded the latest realtek HD drivers I couldn't get it to remap through the HD control panel like on my previous mobo (which is strange to say the least) so I went about forum trawling for the good portion of 2-3 hours to find a solution, and a solution is what I found. Here's the links: Windows 7 - Realtek HD Changing Jack output reassignments ( FIX ) Vista - Realtek HD Changing Jack output reassignments ( FIX ) Both have identical info aside from the fact that the win7 link has more feedback and troubleshooting. Now this can be used even if all your ports are working apparently but you only want stereo through multiple channels without having to emulate it VIA control pods etc... . And I found this significantly helpful as the auto-remapping through the Realtek HD control panel wasn't working for me. These forums are based on Vista/7 I didn't do any shuffling around to find XP fixes (sorry! =( ). Also to save you the hastle of going through the frustration of reading through all 14 pages I'm going to show exactly what fixed my setup even though I was using a different DevType_ than the OP of that fix topic. I found in the same reg entry of "HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Class\{4D36E96C-E325-11CE-BFC1-08002BE10318}\0000\Settings\" that there was another folder with the DevType_ entry even though the reg search can only find the first one. So I did some digging through that other folder and found addition pin entries (onboard audio port locations). Through the process of elimination I deleted all the pin entries in both DevType_ folders after unplugging all my cords from the onboard audio jacks (pins ports etc... I'll just go with ports >.>). After doing so I plugged in my centre/sub jack to the side speaker port, pressed F5 to refresh the regedit screen and voila!!! my pin showed up under Pin00 in the 2nd DevType_ folder (the one I found in 0009). After adjusting the binary data to output centre/sub channel sound through the side speaker port (Pin00 in the 2nd Devtype_ folder) I continued to replug in my other jacks to their proper ports and f5'd each time and entered the corresponding binary numbers. After doing so I f5'd again and went to check the original DevType_ folder to check if any pins had been added to the folder (since I deleted the previous ones) and there was nothing. So I created Binary values in the original DevType_ folder where the OP had originally outlined the changes to be made in the 0000 folder and reanmed them accordingly to the pin entries in the 2nd DevType_ folder I found in the 0009 folder and giving them the same binary values. I then closed regedit and rebooted and....HUZZAH! my channels are working with the remapping along with the basic windows HD driver, The Realtek HD driver and the Creative X-Fi software that came with the mobo. Now this post should be taken with a grain of salt as each system's registry entries will be different (like the pin locations in my DevType_ folders). But as long as you export your current registry (backup the registry) to a safe location on your HDD/SSD then you should not have a problem with exporting it back if you mess something up. I hope my problem troubleshooting helps any of you out there that are having similar difficulties with remapping onboard audio ports. Cheers, Rob.
  3. mauler87

    Overclocking E6850, questions

    Ok, I've done the BIOS change and it's looking a lot more healthy for my poor cpu lol sitting @ 32-33c idle which is a lot better but still doesnt compare to other tests I've heard people have gotten with the same setup. I'm assuming it's something to do with the way i have the heatsink seated. The exhausted blows into the case rather than through the fan at the top of the case. But unfortunately due to gigabyte's massive heatsinks on the mobo I can't really reseat it in a different position without removing the mobo's heatsink ><'. So I guess this is as cool as I'll get it to run but it's a lot better than stock and is fully compatable if I upgrade which should be sooner rather than later. Thank you for the reply it certainly helped me out a lot mate. Cheers, Rob.
  4. mauler87

    Overclocking E6850, questions

    Sorry for the late reply, yeah I've been too busy with studies to look further into it but yeah I just noticed the Vcore sitting at 1.46v which is WAYYY over where I should be shooting and sitting @ 38-39c idle. So I'm guessing a quick trip to bios will keep the temps much further down than it's currently at. Thank you for replying by the way I would have forgotten if you had'nt, as for the paste it's burnt in it took it down the expected 5c you mentioned which is something but yeah definately altering the Vcore manually to 1.35 instead of using the damned gigabyte easytune 5 the board came with (goddam useless PoS software >.> ). Anyways will post an update in a wee bit. P.S. the cpu I'm using is a much older E6850 core 2 duo, cost well over $500 when i first got it but meh gets the job done still.
  5. Hi, Sorry to be posting but I believe it's better to be safe than sorry. Bought a new CPU cooler to replace the stock intel cooler (p.o.s.) am now using Arctic Freezer 7 PRO Rev.2 CPU cooler which i've heard is pretty decent from the reviews i've read. After some interesting obstacles during the installation (using GAP35-DQ6 gigabyte MB) i noticed significant reduction in idle temps from 48c on the stock cooler to 39c with the new one using coretemp 0.99.5. So the first thing I decided to do was test a mild OC being from the stock FSB of 333x9 @ 3ghz to 355x9 @ 3.2ghz both with a stable Vcore of 1.35, this is where it kind of shocked me. From reviews I've read some people are hitting 3.5-3.6 without a problem and not reaching 70c whereas @ 3.2ghz I find myself hitting 70c at an average room temp of around 25c (good ol' north qld), I know the G0 stepping allows for more of a beating on the TJ but this still seems too high. These OC's and tests were conducted a few hours after the installation of the new HS and fan with prime95 and am wondering if I should take off and reseat the HS with a dab of arctic silver 5 or allow more time for the current paste to wear in or maybe even lower the multiplyer and Vcore?. Any views or advice would be a great help ^.^. Thanks, Rob. P.S. I'm using an antec nine hundred case with plenty of fans and neat cording to promote more airflow over the components and another thing is I've noticed that on the packaging it mentions a fan speed of 2500rpm but even with smart fan disabled im only seeing around 2050rpm.