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About elfalot

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  1. 2 questions on going for a ATi card: Are drivers and such going well. And is cross fire on par with SLi, performance and game compatibility wise And I suppose the only other thing to consider (personally) would be Physx, I know there are few games (and benefits in game) are small but sometimes makes for great eye candy. Just wish they would get on with a non card specific solution for that. My last 3-4 card have been NV so I'm a little hesitant to change, and not had much interaction with ATI cards in a long time. Otherwise that sounds like a great card to go for Dasa and if the Drivers and CF are good then its almost a done deal. Not sure about the card you link to, but pretty sure this is the same card with 3 games (Crysis 3, Bio Shock: Infinite & FC3 Blood Dragon) at Mwave for a little more http://www.mwave.com.au/product/sku-aa7841..._3gb_video_card Edit: After a quick look I might go for the system rebuild after all (If Drivers/SLi are good) since the 7950 is almost half price & if I keep my current case the build is almost $1K cheaper. (Approx. $2600 down to $1600). Just wish I knew if there going to be any more sales/deals on either PCCaseGear or Mwave.
  2. Well over time there will probably be a few games that will start to utilize it more, but like I mentioned I've thought about replacing my monitor for quite a while now. I guess another option would be to go for a 680 for the time being. Would a 680 be any good for running at 1440 or would it not be up to it (especially with AA/AS ect on) After a quick browse the DELL U2713 (27" 1440) seems to be highly recommended, but at $769 at MWAVE or from $799 DELL make me think twice about it. Is there a one that comes close for a bit less, and how often does DELL have the 15%-30% off deals because it would be almost certain I'd buy it. I also saw mention of 120Hz screens needing GPU's with grunt to get enough frames to make things appear smooth. So I could go either way really, smoother play or higher res. (Should I move the monitor questions to a new thread in the right section?)
  3. Well In that case, it seems like I might go for it. A question tho, was thinking about getting a Gigabyte card as it has 3yr warranty but is about $829, whereas brands like zotac are about $729 but only 2yr warranty. When it comes down to it are their ,and any other brands you might recommend or warn me about, quality and performance about the same, with warranty being mostly about personal preference (my 2nd 470 died just over the 2yr mark - just out of warranty and probably due to F@h, which I haven't done for a while and probably wont be doing anytime soon) Also great parts guide Dasa
  4. Hi was going to upgrade replace entire system but not too keen on the cost. Currently: Core i7 940 slight over clock Gigabyte GA-x58a-ud3r 6 gig ram 3x2g corsair Tx850 corsair psu OCZ 180g ssd 2tb wd And the gtx 470 Did have a second 470 in sli but it died a year ago I figure the Psu would cope I was wondering if the current system was too much of a bottle neck for a 780 My current monitor is only 1980x1200 24" but I have been thinking of replacing it lately Initially I was going to go with the high end system recommended in the parts guide thread but while I would love to play Games like the new tomb raider maybe crysis 3 and a few other of the newer titles I was hoping I could avoid a complete overhaul especially since the new intel chips and mbs only came out this last month or so Apologies if this post is a bit rough, done on my iPhone
  5. Hi I have a friend whom owns and runs a small shop and has several cameras and a surveillance system installed. Now the system box currently has a 400Gig Samsung Drive installed and after a system lockup and trying to backup some of the recording to a USB drive, I removed it from the box so I could use it directly on a PC that had software to read the recording and so forth, but when removing the drive it was very hot to the touch (could cause a light skin burn I believe) Now I am going to try and clean out the system box and check air flow, but I was also planning to try and track down a WD 500Gig Blue drive PATA (or similar). Could a drive like that possibly reduce the heat problem, as it is a newer drive and (hopefully) it might be more efficient/less heat? The security system in question uses a caddy (?) system, where you place the Drive in a case and then insert the case in the front of the machine, the caddy only has a PATA cable and 4pin molex power connector, so I don't think a SATA Drive is an option.
  6. elfalot

    Fist SSD, which to choose?

    Well I am planning on redirecting My Docs, Downloads Etc to a data drive and really its the Programs and OS I want to speed up, game wise I'm just looking for a slight cut on load times (IE start, level loads - sometimes they get so annoying). Also with the E series, I only really mentioned the space loss (about 4 gig?) as its only a 120, and like you said approx 111gig formatted (around 115 for non E drive). And I believe i have read some mention of how its best not to let them get too full, even with the reserved space, speed starts to suffer, though I'm not what they mean by 'too full' (would 4, 8 or 12 gig remaining be considered as reasonably full?). Put short the 4 gig could be a buffer to being 'too full' (if that's even true). Any way, I am actually considering getting a 180gig like ranki.matoo mentioned, only thing is the cost, but still looks to be a good option. Only real question is, as I'm also looking at a 2tb drive and a wireless modem/router, do I wait to see if places like PCCG are going to start EOFY deals and risk waiting too long (missing out on promo SSD price) or get them now, might get a good deal on the SSD but miss out on a deal on the other 2 if I get em now, and separate shipping would likely kill some savings. :(
  7. elfalot

    Fist SSD, which to choose?

    I'm guessing what your talking about is if I were to run programs and Games of of the 2TB with the OS on the SSD, or something. Am I correct? If so, I don't have many games installed at the one time, currently I only have Crysis 2 and the rest of my current 160gig drive is stuff I haven't sorted through yet, and a quick look sees even with game files program files and user files (not stuff that would be stored on another drive ,ie videos, pics) takes up about 40gig, but of course would be closer to 90gig if I were to have removed the unsorted stuff and install more programs and especially games (Witcher, SC2, Call of Pripyat, stuff with large HDD reqs). Really Im looking to save time with windows loading and speeding up loading of progs and games. Also I thought they newer ones (the ones with the E in the Model code) had reduced speed AND capacity, and wasn't there a stink about that? Plus (at the moment) anywhere I have seen both sold they fairly are evenly priced (Some of these appear to be 3.5 inch not 2.5 otherwise same, but may be limited stock). Or was their something else the newer one have over the 32nm.
  8. Hi all, am wanting to purchase my first SSD drive during the end of financial year sales but am having a little trouble deciding on which to get. Here's where my minds at so far: I want a 120 Gig drive My MB is a GA-X58A-UD3R and has SATA 2 (has a SATA 3 Marvel controller and have heard to NOT use them) Now I was thinking of 3 drives in particular: Corsair Force 3 ~ $270 OCZ Vertex 2 ~ $220 OCZ Vertex 3 ~ $300 The Force 3 is SATA3 and cheaper than the Vertex 3, but it would be limited to SATA2. I also, found this thread http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95688, apparently their are problems with BSOD's and drives not being seen by the system Update: issue has been found only to be with the 120Gb models and have been recalled, replacement or refund for all 120g drives is recommended even if no problems are experienced. The Vertex 2 (32nm) is SATA2 and cheaper than the Vertex 3 and Force 3, but of course is slower and would not benefit from a future upgrade. The only risk i see is getting a 25nm model which has issues. The Vertex 3 is SATA3, I haven't heard any specific problems with them (yet), but it would be limited to SATA2, and is the more expensive drive. Now I don't plan on upgrading in the next year so would will only have SATA2 for a while. Drive will be OS drive and will hopefully have a 2TB DATA drive. I primarily Game and web surf. Also are their perhaps slightly cheaper alternatives, that also have comparable speed & quality. Edit: Damn, just noticed the heading.
  9. elfalot

    The SSD Watch thread

    Was just about to get a Corsair Force 3 when i had a quick check around for issues, 1 thing I found was this: http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95688 It seems a lot of people are having issue with BSOD's, and a quick skim through there doesn't appear to be a fix or easy common factor (Intel and AMD seem affected).
  10. One thing I was recently thinking about was the ASUS Voltage tweak feature, is it worth getting a pair of ASUS 5850's for that feature or look more at what the cards have as a whole (eg warranty)?
  11. Not really, I actually think I checked the site for an update when it was available, but I had only just updated like a week ago and couldn't see anything interesting in the notes and forgot about it. Plus I believe the drivers were up for more than a day or so. Some people playing newer games would most likely be looking for ways to improve performance or resolve issues asap, for example, I read that some people playing the StarCraft II beta contacted Blizzard at first believing it to be a game Update problem at first, plus if their were any new release games at the time drivers usually boast some sort of (optimistic) performance increase for specific titles e.g Dragon Age or whatever. And now that I think about it, how they love to remind you for every game and every time it comes to support to 'use the latest drivers'.
  12. i doubt that would be the case... graphics cards can only draw so much power.. it sounds like the GPU is just dieing... There was, however, a bad driver release that (from memory) caused cards to overheat due to the fans not spinning faster as temps increased. Which I hear cooked a few cards. One other thing crossed my mind is could my PSU be failing as only a few weeks before I swapped out 2x 1g sticks of 800MHz ram for 4x 1g sticks of 1066MHz (running at 925 due to MB limit). I only mention it because I have had it for as long as the card, and I read that the SilverStone Strider series PSU's (mine is a ST60F) is not really recommended for a higher end system. I haven't really had much experience with faulty PSU or cards (asised from working or outright dead) so feel free to fill me in why or why not this would be the case.
  13. UPDATE 16-06-2010 After trying the baking method (striped of Heatsink and backplate and thermal in a pre-heated oven @ 195 celcius for 10 min) the card now works and survived an hour long stress test using OCCT GPU test, so I currently have my fingers crossed that it will last for at least another 6 months. Interesting notes: When trying to see if I could reduce temps Under load (85 celcius) I went to check the thermal paste on the GPU and I noticed that one side of the HS area, the paste had not even touched it leading me to believe that the GPU and that section of the HS is not parallel (not convex or concave either which is sometimes seen on CPU HSF) and Iended up adding slightly more paste on one side to compensate, whether this has been the case all along or only arose over time I'm not sure. Also I decided to replace the thermal pads for the RAM and other chips with paste and while I added more than enough paste (compared with normal amounts for CPU's for example) it still wasn't enough to fill the gap between the RAM and the HS, so I ended up putting another layer on the corresponding side on the HS, which in most cases only just filled the gap (and possibly left little gaps or pocket in the paste) which while not ideal, is all I can do as I have some thermal pads their isn't enough and even still they don't look thick enough to make full contact, I don't know why the gap is so big as the screws are as tight as they can be (without being stupidly tight), the card may have changed shape slightly overtime, while baking, or seeing as XFX put those pads on in the first place, it may have been that way since day one. End UPDATE Hi Have a XFX 8800 GTX that began crashing with BSOD's while playing FO3, originally I thought that FO3 was the only problem as only the game crashed, but after a week or so the BSOD's began (at first I though it may have been a driver update, but after rolling back still no luck, and I did this before the bad driver release and don't believe I ever used them), luckily my brother had a 8800GT I can use until I upgrade. I have had this card for 2 years roughly and have been using the rig that it's in fairly regularly for that time and have got a lot of use from it but I don't want to give up on it too quickly considering what it cost me, plus my brother would probably want it if it still works when i upgrade. Now to the symptoms. At first the problem seemed to only occur when the card was stressed, about 84-86 degrees, but would work for a few minutes before crashing the program running or BSOD, I could start up the PC normally and browse and so on, but after a stress test and quickly restarting artifacts would appear on the screen from the word go in Post and most likely be unusable in windows and would need to be left off to cool for a bit before it would work again, so I dusted out the case and the card and tried again, still no good. After this I was a little down so gave up put the gt in and forgot about it for a while. Then when I was feeling up to it I went to test the card again (so I had an idea of what it was like before I attempted to fix it), and while it was okay on post and loading screen when reaching the desktop I would now be greeted with this: Not: this is a close up from a mobile phone camera, the red and dark red squiggles are the problem. And then it's not long before the video crashes repeatedly before BSOD'ing, with following error: Attempt to reset the display driver and recover from timeout failed. STOP: 0x00000116 nvlddmkm.sys other info on page tends to change However when booting into XP there is some minor corruption on the welcome screen, and the desktop looks fine but then things like this happen. Note: in the second picture it looked normal until I tried to drag the window then started to fill with the little red squiggles. And while I didn't test it for long but it didn't BSOD but it did seem to stop responding occasionally and it seemed (excluding the visual problems) to shut down normally. Now, does this kind of problem help identify in general what might be wrong with the card, and if so can it be fixed and how? I have also read that in a last ditch, nothing to loose scenario, I could considering using the 'baking' method to re-flow the solder, but only if no reasonable way can be found that helps. Upadate: Good news and bad news. Good: Camera ready, GPU-Z downloaded. Bad: Now that the card is back in I can't even boot into XP or 7 (XP goes nowhere, 7 BSOD's) except 7 safe mode, and apparently I can't run GPU-Z in safe mode and can't really get better pics to replace previous ones but can add some other new examples of the card playing up. Anyway after re-inserting the gtx today i was greeted by this at POST: Then by this: Which then would lead to windows 7 ending with the BSOD like above or windows XP going to the loading screen then going black with some of the red squiggles at the top edge of the screen and doing nothing else. And then when trying to boot into Windows 7 Safe mode this: This is a pic trimmed to only show the list of boot options eg. safe mode, safe mode with networking and so on. The blurring is my fault but you may be able to see some strange characters there were some smileys in there. Also a question about redoing the heat sink and thermal paste/tape, I have noticed and read that while the GPU appears to sit completely flush against the HS the ram and other chips seem to have a slightly bigger gap between them and the HS, meaning adding slightly more paste to compensate or using thermal tape, is that right? Also I have some cheap thermal tape which I've never bothered using and while I have paste it's not really of a high quality, would either be acceptable for short term testing/fixing until I can get better stuff or should I wait?
  14. Well, I have been looking around and I have seen that the 470's in sli aren't bad performance for the heat, noise, power increase (if the user is okay with it), I am kinda considering it if I can afford it at the time, however I'm not sure about power requirements and heat personally. I just did a quick calculation using http://www.extreme.outervision.com/PSUEngine and got a something like 1000W recommended for a PSU, and that was with CPU at 3.8GHz (too optimistic?), 6 sticks of DDR3 (for if more is added in future), 470's in SLI, 3 HDD, 1 optical, tv tuner, 1 extra pci-e x1 card and 25% cap aging (although I read Corsairs tend not to loose too much of max watt capacity?). BUT... noticing that the amps on the +12v rails is more important and seeing some similar rigs OC'ed and using 850Watt PSU's, what would I most likely be looking at for a PSU? Would a Corsiar 850HX/TX be enough? Plus I have heard that 5850's have a bit of OC potential but not sure about the 470's (since they have higher heat and power use to begin with), does any one have a good article(s) about these cards being OC'ed in SLI/CF? Because if the 5850's OC's a little better, closing the performance gap enough, then it might make me stay with ATI. One last thing. Personally my reasoning(on no comments/suggestions) is 58xx's, while less powerful than 4x0's, are a more tested product while the 4x0's have been out for about 2 months, and the 5850's are cheaper, meaning that I wouldn't feel the need to hang onto them as long as I would a more expensive card(s) if upgrading ever crossed my mind. Simply put, more polished versions from either AMD/ATI or NVIDIA could be released down the line either reducing heat/noise/power use or increase performance, making me feel a bit silly for buying the more expensive option (at the wrong time).
  15. Hi Looking to build a new pc when the end of financial year sales start, was planning on upgrading my current machine but the MB (p5n32 e sli plus) wont work with the newer quad cores making it less of an appealing option (plus some other minor issues with the board) Anyway on my previous build I researched alot and kept fairly up to speed with the current tech (or so i though with the MB) and the build has served me well for 2 years, managing even to play crysis on higher settings (mostly), however due to my 8800GTX possibly dead (looking at baking as last resort) the CPU limit at E8600 and RAM speed limit figured I'd start again. So putting that nonsense out of the way here is my idea for the new build: i7 930 GA-X58A-UD3R (from recommend build thread here) Corsair CMP6GX3M3A1600C7 6GB (3x 2GB) PC-12800 (1600MHz), 7-8-7-20 Corsair HX-750 750W ATX 2 x XFX 5850 cards in CF (not XXX or black/extreme editions) Now reasoning. I tend to overclock a bit, air cooling, I am a gamer (eg FO3, Borderlands, Metro2033), would like at least 1 pci-e and pci slot free for a tv tuner, while I understand crucial is recommended I would like to reduce postage costs (and time) for orders and returns in NSW and have ordered from Megaware before and prices seem good overall and corsair is a good brand but i am not necessarily set on the brand or model. Plus same old stuff a bit of room for future upgrades and stuff plus last me 2 or so years. Have a Antec 900 not the revised one, but thinking about purchasing a Lian Li Lancool Dark Armor K62, have a velociraptor 150GB drive and 2x500GB drives for storage and they seem to be suiting me just fine for now but I will be buying a new burner as my current one is PATA. Please feel free to suggest parts with reason and my price is around the 2000 dollar mark but no really locked to that area. @ nesquick while the performance would probably be better, I don't believe that the increase would be enough to justify cost as I hear the 470 & 480 aren't as great as people had hoped. 2 x 5850's cards would be around or under 800 and 2 x gtx 470's would be about $900 or more. BUT that's only what I can tell from what little i've read, so yeah, and like you said heat & power would also need slightly higher watt PSU to be safe.