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myquickacc

Will my DREAM PC work?

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Hey everyone starts somewhere, building a computer is a great way of learning about them, I remember many years ago I was never allowed to 'play' with my PC so I used to have to wait till my parents went out to work or shopping and I would open up the case and play.. So lets be helpful not critical.

 

myquickacc, your description is kind of vague are you able to take a photo of what you mean?

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Ok, I have opened one side of my PC (Case).

I could open it with my screwdrivers because that side of the case had screws in it holding it together.

The top and the other side has rivets instead of screws holding it together.

 

 

The hard drive and optical drive (I only need the optical drive) have screws in them to hold them in place.

They're in those bays, you know, where you put your optical drive and hard drive (and other stuff sometimes)... well I managed to unscrew the screws on the open side.

 

But I can't unscrew the other set of nails (holding the optical drive in place) on the other side of the case.... There's about 0.8cm between the side of the case and the bays inside the case.

I can't unscrew that side, then open it and then unscrew the nails.. (rivets holding it in place..)

I can't fit a screwdriver inside the small area in the case and .:Cyb3rGlitch:. here has told me that rivets shouldn't be taken out of their places.

 

Thanks!

Edited by myquickacc

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Well sounds like whoever put that machine together used rivets for some strange reason instead of screws unless its designed that you can remove the other side a different way then the other side but i digress.

 

If they have riveted one side of the case on and you need access to it then the only way I know how is to drill it out.

It is very easy just need a drill and a drill bit a touch larger then the hollow part of the rivet, the head of the rivet is usually a soft metal aluminium or such that you wont need a special drill bit. You don't need to drill the rivet deep only enough that it separates from the expanded part of the rivet on the other side of the hole.

 

Just double check that there is no other way to remove the other side or that the other side and the lid aren't 1 piece and made to be not as easily removed.

 

Otherwise happy drilling!

 

Once you have access to the other side simply remove the remaining screws holding the drives and unplug them, and they should slide out.

 

 

::edit::

I really am hoping i haven't gone and told you to drill out some rivets that belong there.. I am basing my advice on the assumption that you have correctly identified that there are rivets where case screws should be. So make sure you have a good check.

Edited by Bundywow

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I can't fit a screwdriver inside the small area in the case and .:Cyb3rGlitch:. here has told me that rivets shouldn't be taken out of their places.

 

Thanks!

Let me start by saying in a normal case you won't have rivets holding things like side doors on.

 

now about said rivets

they look like this?

Posted Image

 

then they need to meet with this

Posted Image

 

once you get the parts we can help you put everything together if you have trouble.

Edited by nesquick

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Hey everyone starts somewhere, building a computer is a great way of learning about them, I remember many years ago I was never allowed to 'play' with my PC so I used to have to wait till my parents went out to work or shopping and I would open up the case and play.. So lets be helpful not critical.

 

myquickacc, your description is kind of vague are you able to take a photo of what you mean?

i'm being sensible mate not criticizing i mean if he wants to brick his 5k machine because he forgot to put the spacers in then be my guest. from what i gather he has no idea i mean he's asking what tools to use ffs and he is contemplating overclocking O_o, we could give him all the advice he needs but in the end its in his hands. all i'm saying is myquickacc it helps to read some of the trillion guides out there if you haven't yet and practice disassembling/assembling on an old pc.

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Hey everyone starts somewhere, building a computer is a great way of learning about them, I remember many years ago I was never allowed to 'play' with my PC so I used to have to wait till my parents went out to work or shopping and I would open up the case and play.. So lets be helpful not critical.

 

myquickacc, your description is kind of vague are you able to take a photo of what you mean?

i'm being sensible mate not criticizing i mean if he wants to brick his 5k machine because he forgot to put the spacers in then be my guest. from what i gather he has no idea i mean he's asking what tools to use ffs and he is contemplating overclocking O_o, we could give him all the advice he needs but in the end its in his hands. all i'm saying is myquickacc it helps to read some of the trillion guides out there if you haven't yet and practice disassembling/assembling on an old pc.

Edited by layzi

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Thanks Nesquick, those are the pics that match.

 

I'll get my dad to drill them out.

 

I'll also post the components of the DREAM PC for a final check after

dad verifies that we're ready to buy =p

 

Thanks to everyone so far for helping me out!

I still need you tho XD

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When you get him to drill them out make sure he just drills the head off not the whole rivet as there is no need to they will just pop out so to speak.

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Yea like i said before as soon as the head of the rivet is loose the job is done no need to go deeper.

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Ok, so right now, I've pulled everything apart, put it back together and now asking for help.

I've no idea where to connect everything. I don't have any instruction manuals so I don't know

which go where.

 

Thanks!

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Would have been a good idea to take photos as you were pulling it apart. There's a heap of site on the Internet that explain how to build a PC. Also, if you have a motherboard manual, that's quite handy too.

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Ok, so right now, I've pulled everything apart, put it back together and now asking for help.

I've no idea where to connect everything. I don't have any instruction manuals so I don't know

which go where.

 

Thanks!

All the cables will only fit where they are designed to go. IE power cables for the drives will only fit in one way and the power cable for the motherboard is unmistakeable. But if you watch this short video, about half way through it will show you where all the cables go. If you have IDE ribbon cables (IE not sata but the grey or blue wide flat cables) you will see a notch on the plug of the cable that will match the socket in the drives.

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Thanks dudes, I'll think I'll do that tomorrow, sought of hard at night.

 

I've decided to post probably the second last list of my DREAM PC XD

 

Central Processing Unit: Intel Core i7 920 - I'll over-clock it definitely to 4.1GHZ (If Core i9 doesn't come out soon, it's my choice)

Motherboard: GA-X58A-UD7

Enclosure: Antec Twelve Hundred (Lian Li ases are massive and look awesome! Don't need them tho)

Random Access Memory: Corsair TR3XG1866C9DF 6GB - I'll to overclock it (G-SKILL, OCZ, possible..)

Graphic*s Processing Unit (GPU): ATI Radeon HD 5870 - I'll try to overclock it (Possibly 5970 now because of Noctua NH-D14?)

Keyboard: My old keyboard (Logitech G19 Keyboard = Sister will argue about why I got it)

Mouse: Microsoft Sidewinder X8 Mouse (Looks good and the features are good for me)

Cooling System: Noctua NH-D14 (BRAND NEW! - The best in the market!)

Power Supply Unit: Corsair HX1000 (Didn't want the Corsair HX750)

Solid State Drive: Patriot Torqx 64GB (Only used about 30GB on old PC)

Optical Drive: My old optical drive (I only need it for installation cds)

Audio Card: Realtek 889A (onboard motherboard)

Headset: Plantronics Gamecon 777 (A headset which is a good bang for buck steal)

Monitor: Asus VK266H 26inch (Dad would steal the 30inch Dell)

Operating System: Windows 7 Ultimate (XP Mode and Bit-Locker are must needs, hence)

 

Thanks again guys!

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Ok, so right now, I've pulled everything apart, put it back together and now asking for help.

I've no idea where to connect everything. I don't have any instruction manuals so I don't know

which go where.

 

Thanks!

 

The beauty of building a PC is that everything only fits one place.

 

follow this rule: if it fits, plug it in.

im racking my brain trying to think of something that wont go by this rule, and with the excpetion of the various lengths of PCI EXPRESS cards (which your current PC wont have) I cant think of any.

 

 

Without ging through this whole thread again; I'd like to, in simple english, point out a fatal flaw in your plan.

I can promise you, in 3 years (that you want your PC to last) I can spend about $1.5k and outperform your system.

 

That is to say, buying 2 computers, roughly $2k each time, will lead to better long term performance, anything else is very much overkill.

 

I would personally get the C12P not the U12P for a cooler, because it cools roughly as well, and ALSO blows onto the motherboard components, keeping them cool too. Other than that, it looks OK. Very overkill for your needs, but it'll do fine.

 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 

As an example, my system is as such:

 

i7 920 overclocked@3.9ghz

Noctua C12P (blowing on my Motherboard PWM's as they get HOT!)

6GB G.Skill RAM (1600mhz, cheapest stuff available)

DFI Jr X58-T3H6 motherboard

400Gb (from my old system) hard drive for windows, apps and games

1Tb Samsung Silencer drive for storage (the silencer series is a 'cooler' and more efficient drive, without being slow like a WD Green, which are the devil)

Hd3850 (max driver overclock, GPU 400mhz @ 420mhz, Memory, 400mhz @ 450mhz) Fan unplugged for silence (has a side fan blowing at it)

26" ASUS monitor @ 1920 X 1200

 

Now you'll see my CPU is the cheapest of the i7 range, ram (at the time) was the cheapest 1600mhz ram, and my graphics card is roughly $40 by todays equivalent.

 

As of yet, everything Ive played still runs @ max settings. Admittedly the heaviest game Ive played on here is Bioshock (which is pretty impressive for my GPU i think), the rest are titles available on STEAM usually based on the Source engine (like TF2 and other 'fast but simple' games).

 

Ive spent a total of about $1.1k on this system (excluding monitor), and i guarantee, simply by replacing the CPU and graphics card in the next 2 years, I will blow your $5k system of today out of the water.

 

Its something to think about. 2 systems with new tech, or one big one that is TECHNICALLY a waste of money. It'll work though.

 

If your dad is paying for this, i'd ask if you can cut him a deal. If you have $5k max, i'd ask if you build it below $3k, if he'll give you another $1k in 2 years to upgrade. Just my 2c.

 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 

EDIT: i'll give you an eaxmple and explaination of where you are overkilling this system.

 

Central Processing Unit: Intel Core i7 920 - I'll over-clock it definitely to 4.1GHZ (If Core i9 doesn't come out soon, it's my choice)

expect 4ghz, its a nice number, you'll not notice anythign but more heat with todays current apps anyhting above that.

 

Motherboard: GA-X58A-UD7

This is fine, I avoid gigabyte after a HUGE quality control issue earlier this year (like... 10 DOA motherboards in one week for me)

 

Enclosure: Antec Twelve Hundred (Lian Li ases are massive and look awesome! Don't need them tho)

Big, but it'll do.

 

Random Access Memory: Corsair TR3XG1866C9DF 6GB - I'll to overclock it (G-SKILL, OCZ, possible..)

G.Skill is my choice, its cheaper and does wonders. 1600mhz is the speed you want for a 'clean' 4ghz overclock, considering RAM overclocks with your CPU.

 

Graphic*s Processing Unit (GPU): ATI Radeon HD 5870 - I'll try to overclock it (Possibly 5970 now because of Noctua NH-D14?)

You dont need to overclock this, nor do you NEED anyhting this powerful, this is one of those parts i'd upgrade in the future and get the basics for now.

 

Keyboard: My old keyboard (Logitech G19 Keyboard = Sister will argue about why I got it)

Good man, nothing like a familiar keyboard :D

 

Mouse: Microsoft Sidewinder X8 Mouse (Looks good and the features are good for me)

I dont mind the sidewinders, but the G9 is my mouse, I tried many. Go to an office works and 'feel' the mice before you buy.

 

Cooling System: Noctua NH-D14 (BRAND NEW! - The best in the market!)

While ONE OF the best, I wouldnt pay it. $90 for a C12P is all you need for a 4ghz overclock, the CPU simply wont usually do higher, so why waste money on more cooling than you need.

 

Power Supply Unit: Corsair HX1000 (Didn't want the Corsair HX750)

Thats a lot of powersupply for a simple system, the 750 is the better buy, but if you insist. This is a waste of money. My above ystem runs on 600W Seasonic with room to spare.

 

Solid State Drive: Patriot Torqx 64GB (Only used about 30GB on old PC)

Expensive for not a lot of space, I'd get a propper HDD, but if you REALLY dont think you'll use it... Windows will use 10GB-ish

 

Optical Drive: My old optical drive (I only need it for installation cds)

Remember games usually come on DVD now, so if its not a DVD drive, you'll need to get a new one.

 

Audio Card: Realtek 889A (onboard motherboard)

Yup, unless you're buying good speakers you wont notice.

 

Headset: Plantronics Gamecon 777 (A headset which is a good bang for buck steal)

Good bang for buck, but not a 'good headset' by audio standards. For gaming you wont notice, so the onboard sound is fine.

 

Monitor: Asus VK266H 26inch (Dad would steal the 30inch Dell)

I believe this is the one I have... its amazing, but dont believe the 2ms, real response time due to INPUT LAG is 20ms, which is one of the fastest on the market, ignore advertising hype.

 

Operating System: Windows 7 Ultimate (XP Mode and Bit-Locker are must needs, hence)

Why do you need these features out of curiosity? a free encryption program can do bitlocker tasks, and XP mode... for what? im a curious guy.

 

 

 

After reading what youve decided on its not as bad as i expected. IMO, downgrade: storage, cooling, Power Supply, and Graphics Card, and you're set!

Edited by Master_Scythe

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Ok. thanks dude!

 

So, the Asus VK266H 26inchdoesn't have 2ms response time?

Know any good screens then? (No 30inch Dells please - I wish I could buy one - Maybe wouldn't even fit)

 

Thanks for the tip of the long run!

Prices will inevitably fall down but I fear soon I'll be building PC's for my whole family...

 

I don't play games like Crysis but I play MMORPG's and MMOFPSs'

CALL OF DUTY: MODERN WARFARE 2 - MMOFPS (Getting it - Has flaws tho - Check out the gaming section on the forums here) ,

COUNTERSTRIKE Source - 1.6 (Getting it - WTH is the diffrence!?!) ,

RUNESCAPE (Free MMORPG - ROFL - I just merchant - I'm rich on RS) and

CROSSFIRE (Free MMOFPS - Not ATI GPU's in dual/triple set-up).

 

I think I wouldn't get the ATI Radeon HD 5870 but the ATI Radeon HD 4770, but if I recall correctly,

the ATI Radeon HD 4770 fails on my choice of monitor (Asus VK266h 26inch)

 

I'll think about it tho.

 

Once again, thanks to everyone!

Edited by myquickacc

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So, the Asus VK266H 26inchdoesn't have 2ms response time?

It sure does have a 2MS response time. Asus VK266H 26 inch wide Full HD 2ms WebCam DVI+VGA HDMI As for the video card I just built a system this week with a XFX ATI HD5770 1G And I cannot fault the performance or the price.

 

XFX ATI HD5770 1G Dual DVI DL HDMI DP Internet Price: $209.00 Strap two of them together for some sweet gaming.

 

Here is a guide to explain what Master_Scythe is talking about when he talks of input lag. In a nutshell a monitor with a high response time coupled with actual response time is not a good combination as it would cause notable lag, so we aim for a monitor with a low response time in an effort to off set those effects. Also some monitors do this better than others, and in this case the Asus monitor you choose does a great job.

 

I am sure he did not mean to confuse you, just educate you :)

Edited by bowiee

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exactly.

 

Input lag (usually around the 20ms) is the time it takes for your monitor to 'process' what it shoul be showing on the screen. (high = things ACTUALLY happen before you see them)

 

response time is the time it takes for the screen to change from one image to another (slow = blur)

 

 

MOST monitors, have about an average of 20ms input lag, keeping in mind there is 100ms in a second, thats not much. and im sorry i made a mistake up there.

 

This monitor had input lag of: Worst: 26ms, Best: 6ms, Average: 12ms

 

That, my friend, is one of the ABSOLUTE BEST on the market, stick with it. the 2ms (grey to grey) response time is also good, however thats with the 'OVERDRIVE' feature (something built into the monitor) on max.

 

considering people cant usually see better than 16ms, this isnt a big issue. I have overdrive on 60%, which, i'd estimate makes the response rate about 6ms, not 2ms. This is fine, and removes any 'overdrive error' which is a known issue in "fast monitors".

 

In simple terms. Its expensive for a reason, its one of the best. I play DDR and music games mainly on this thing, so lag is VERY NOTICIBLE (or more specifically, not), and its by far one of the best ive ever used.

Edited by Master_Scythe

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MOST monitors, have about an average of 20ms input lag, keeping in mind there is 100ms in a second, thats not much. and im sorry i made a mistake up there.

Just thought I'd point out that there's 1000ms in a second, not 100ms. :)

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MOST monitors, have about an average of 20ms input lag, keeping in mind there is 100ms in a second, thats not much. and im sorry i made a mistake up there.

Just thought I'd point out that there's 1000ms in a second, not 100ms. :)

 

yep, 100ms is only .1 of a second hardly discernable to the human eye.

 

myquickacc I still can't beleive your fixated on a HD4770, if you want to go cheap get a HD5750 for the feature set alone if nothing else.

Edited by nesquick

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Ok, so now I'm pretty sure that I'm getting Asus VK266H 26inch monitor

 

Also, before you said to get the ATI Radeon HD 5870 but now you want me to get the ATI Radeon HD5770 (Maybe 2)?

I'll swap and stick to one ATI Radeon HD 5770 if that is the case.

 

But I'm still confused by some things.

 

1. Is the NH-D14P a cooling system, heatsink, CPU fan or is it all of that?

 

2. Shouldn't the Antec Twelve Hundred like have fans?

 

3. So Master_Scythe, you say I should be using RAM that has 1600mhz for overclocking? I'm thinking about getting G-Skill [Ripjaws] F3-16000CL9T-6GBRH RAM. (DDR3-2000-PC3 16000) - Website : http://www.gskill.com/products.php?index=188

Let me make sure tho, (check the website) that that RAM has 1600mhz?

 

4. Ok, I got all the cables but they all fit into every darn pin! I can only look at the bottom and check which one goes where. But the only one I'm sure about is the speaker. This is probably the most important question now.

 

5. I've got IE Ribbon cables for the optical and hard drive and they are exactly the same, they both fit into these 2 sockets on the motherboard, but one is green and one is white. No labels so I have no idea which one goes where.

 

Thanks guys for your help so far!

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WOOT, found the manual for my motherboard on the Gigabyte website.

Now I can put everything in. No need for question 4 now.

 

Also, question 5 I figured out, (thanks to the manual) they're both can be used for either one.

 

But now I have a few problems.

I've got every single cable from the PSU not connected except for the main power connecter thing.

Is that ok?

 

The 24-pin won't work for some reason - Put it into the big one(24-pin cable only works when facing you, so it will never fit into the motherboard)

 

 

Thanks!

Edited by myquickacc

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1. Yes the Noctua should come with 2 fans I believe.

 

2. Yea the case ships with a bunch of fans.

 

3. Ram meets what MS suggested.

 

The 24pin connector should fit neatly in it's intended socket. Care to elaborate on your problem?

Edited by Bundywow

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So Bundywow, your saying that the NH-D14P has CPU fans (I know that it has fans) , is a heatsink and a cooling system for the entire PC?

Please answer yes or no =p

 

Ok, I've tried to fit in the 24-pin connecter but I can't get it in.

I asked my dad but he can't.

 

The 24-pin can't fit in because it has 2 square parts diagonal to each other and

two with the top in a semicircle (diagonally to each other again)

 

Dad and I have tried all of the ways we can put it in but it won't work.

The only way when it fits will if was the something go through the back of the motherboard lol.

So what I'm saying is the 24-pin connector will be in the right direction to fit into the motherboard

is when it's facing you.

 

I've just used the other connector instead so it doesn't really matter.

 

Anyway, can anyone please answer this question?

 

But now I have a few problems.

I've got every single cable from the PSU not connected except for the main power connecter thing.

Is that ok?

 

(It was in the last post)

 

Thanks!

Edited by myquickacc

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