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mark84

The little big project

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blue does look good but i think go amber for something diffrent.

 

awsome build man!

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Gotta say I think I prefer the blue but everything comes in blue these days (maybe intense black light? :-P), so if you want something more original - amber with the dye.

 

That multi-bay is awesome and a freaking great use of space.

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Id go with the amber lights + yellow dye, that would look awesome and as others said, fairly original.

 

When i got my antec 900 case (no longer use it, turned in into a gaming pc for my brother), and i got

myself a thermaltake spedo case instead now), with all the blue lighting everywhere, it was cool for about 4months.

trying to sleep in a room fully illuminated in blue light wasnt exactly nice, so i ended up changing all

the led fans + led strip lights to red, was easier to sleep with, the green is less annoying then blue

after a while, but i reackon yellow/amber colour would be better.... actually gives me an idea to change

it and see how it looks..

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The little big project is alive!!!

Typing this post with it :P

 

Will post pics and some more words on how I put it together etc later. Still installing stuff.

 

I ended up going blue. Primarily because of all the LED strips I got, only one of the blue ones had a double molex pass through type adapter on the end. All the others are single terminator type molex connectors. I only had one molex connector to hook up two LED strips to, so I had to go with blue.

The other factor is the Koolance pump bay thing glows bright blue too so kinda all matches at least with the blue LEDs.

Went clear for the liquid.

 

I'll maybe change the top LED strip to Amber later so the case glows blue (cool) and the rads Amber (warm). Might be interesting. But CBF pulling it apart again for a while, might do it when I get a GTX595/HD6990. It's a MASSIVE PITA to do anything in this thing.

Seriously. Like to take the optical drive out (some screws were stopping it ejecting fully out) I had to remove these things in this order: disconnect top fans, rads, case top, metal bracket thing, video card, sound card, unplug USB cables, 'un-snake' them from around the case, THEN unscrew multi bay, detatch all SATA data and power connectors for the three drives in the bay, disconnect all the fan extension cables from rheobus, THEN pull the multi bay out and work on it! :O

 

Thank goodness for quick disconnects. Best things ever.

 

Anyway, will make a proper post later when I've got this setup.

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Ohh to think your cute cluster fuck of yours is causing you trouble.

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Mmmk, show and tell time. Apologies if there's too many photos.

 

First challenge I had was snaking the mobo power cable somewhere to the mobo connector. This is how I did it.

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Hard to see but I had to use three hook thingies stuck to the side of the HDD bay to hold the cable in place. Had too as the last RAM slot had to be populated.

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Here's all three sticks in. Had to put one in at a time and slide the Koolance bay device back a bit each time, as the tubing gets in the way on the RAM.

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Next installed the USB3.0 card and plugged the cables from my multi bay cluster fuck into it. The USB cable from the right hand side of the bay, I had to snake through inbetween my HDDs to get it over this side of the case.

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After that, installed the audio and video cards. And connected up the case mobo connections.

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From there it was getting pretty packed. Some shots to show you how little room is left in the case.

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Edited by mark84

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I just realised I didn't take any shots from above after I dropped the PSU in. Anyway, here's a couple from below, looking at the CPU area.

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Here's the last shot I took before I put the lid on.

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Finished!

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I then got a proper camera and tried to take some good photos and just mess around with camera settings. Have higher res images of these in my album.

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Some shots I messed around with:

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And here's my cleaned up desk (all my crap is lying on the floor off screen :P) with the little big project and my modded SG05 file server. Mmm 30" monitor :)~~~

 

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Still running stock atm.

Temps:

Ambient = 22C

CPU @ idle = 31C

MB = 30C

ICH = 57C

IOH = 66C (gets up to 70C some times :S)

Water temp (just before CPU block) = 26C

 

Under LinX load for 10 mins CPU goes up to 47.5C and water temp goes to 27C.

 

Something odd about the Bitspower water temp sensors, after I plugged one into the Koolance bay device, on power up the device just gave off a high pitch tone. Not sure why it was doing it. Luckily the mobo had an external temp sensor pins I could plug into. This might ruin my hopes of having 3 temp sensors running when I water cool the GTX595/HD6990 I'll get.

 

Sound wise, it's REALLY quiet. Top fans at 1/3rd setting and side fan full on and the noisiest thing in it is the water pump. Apart from the pump, at a metre away it's whisper quiet. Cranking the top fans up full it's about the same noise as my old PC with fans all at half lol.

 

Power wise I'm pulling 186W idle, previously it was 250W, but that was with the CPU OC'd. So I'll come back to this after I OC.

 

That's it for the moment. Will get onto OCing this CPU again, hopefully I can push it higher than in the last build. Will report back results here when I'm done.

Edited by mark84

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nicec work!

 

thats a very neat and tidy build man!

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Looks amazing man. Love it all finished up and to be honest the more pics the better.

 

What 30" screen is that?

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the more pics the better.

 

What 30" screen is that?

+1

and i think i remember him saying the screen is the dell 3011 (is am i right?)

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What 30" screen is that?

+1

and i think i remember him saying the screen is the dell 3011 (is am i right?)

Yeah Dell U3011. Lovin it :)

 

 

 

Back to the PC. Just wondering if I should put a T line on the pipe connecting the two rads. Reason being is that to fill up the Koolance bay device res it has to be pulled forward out the front by about 5cm to get to the fill port. Problem is to do that I have to basically dismantle the whole thing to do that. What do you guys think?

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+1 that t line mate :) seems you dont have another option anyhow.

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@morgoth, yeah I'll get one of the new dual GPU cards coming, plug it in and wait for an appropriate water block to come out then get one and put it in the loop.

You'll notice on page 7, the last picture in my first post on that page the big tube loop I got going from the bay pump to the rear of the case. I'll use the two quick disconnects to take that section of tube out, attach the new new block, then drop it all back in. All without draining the loop :)

Got the same setup on the CPU should I get a different CPU or upgrade platform.

 

 

With regards to T lines, I've never used/made one before. What sort of thing should I be looking for to put at the end of it? Are these things gravity fed or use a syringe? I think I'll want the tube short so it doesn't stick out the top past the fans so it doesn't ruin the look of the setup. The other issue I got is how to get the air out of the res...

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a T piece works with gravity so in a complex loop like that it may not work so well as the water may just sit in the T with big air pockets in other parts of the loop that may get into the pump and stop it from working

it only works when it is above everything or right before the pump so that the air can go up as the water drops down into the line

those rads mounted that way are likely to hold a fair bit of air without being tilted if you havnt already done so to get that out

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Mmm, good info Dasa. Initially I primed the loop so the tubes in the loop were mostly free of air, then disconnected the rads and filled them manually over the sink to get rid of the remaining air in them before putting them back in the loop air free.

 

The inlet to the res comes up from the CPU block. So maybe where I have the right angled fixture I could put a T junction instead. But then water from the CPU block would be wanting to travel up the t line pipe rather than straight into the res. Or with the T line plug it'll be fine?

 

The highest spot in the loop is technically inside the rads, the highest tubing is the horizontal pipe connecting the rads at the rear. Where I was initially thinking for the line simply cause it'll be easier the do. But yeah the air in the res. Or if I keep the T line primed with a bit of water and fill the res to the brim as long as I have water in the t line no air will get into the res?

 

Just for reference:

The tubing layout inside

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Close up of the right angle bit I'm talking about.

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Rear tubing layout

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Edited by mark84

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probably the best thing you can do is extend the hose between pump and cpu so you have a little slack if thats what stopping you from sliding it out enough to get to the fill port

a T between the cpu and pump may reduce the air that gets back into the res by catching large bubbles after you hook up the gpu block but it wont help top up the res unless it is above it so maybe if you tilted the case forward you could put more water in there...

with nukes loop we had to leave two hoses disconnected and blow into a res to push the water threw to the pump which was insanely hard i had no idea those blocks in his loop could be so restrictive

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Mmm. Spose I might be able to extend the cpu to bay run. Turn the quick disconnect towards the rear of the case and the bend the tube 180 degrees back and up to the bay. Possibly the 180 half loop will give me enough bend and slack to pull the bay out.

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