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[Build Log] Project Poison

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Yea does feel like too much tubing, and i think some of it I could have definitely cut shorter, but if I was just going to cool the CPU I would have stuck a 280 rad to the top of my case on the inside, and kept things more compact or not even bothered with the water.

By January I hope to acquire a shiny new ATI card probably a 7950 depending on how they are priced and what the performance is like. Then it will also be added to the loop once some blocks come out.

 

Have had a little bit of time to play with the over-clocking last night and 5.2ghz seemed quite stable, about 10-15 mins prime95 stable anyway. I didn't have time to see if it would go any higher for now.

The only thing I really had installed to test was superPi so I did a couple runs, results here.

 

Do you guys know if the voltage reported by cpu-z/coretemp is correct? Doesn't always match what I set in BIOS. Temps have been fine so far, high 50s to low 60s under load was about the worst it got. Nothing into the 70s or 80s.

 

I've also been looking for a safe/stable 24/7OC that won't degrade the life of my chip. Currently i'm about 8 hours stable in prime96 blend test at 4.5ghz and fairly low voltage. Here is a screenie I took before work. Hoping it doesn't fail somehow before I get home.

Posted Image

 

thats all for now.

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im my experience cpu-z is fairly accurate but it is only as accurate as the v probe on the mb

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Hey guys - time to update this thread a little as a few things have changed, and to be honest, i can't be fucked doing any work right now i'd much rather take a break and type up a post.

 

Over the last few weeks I saw my max cpu load temps creeping up over 60*c and then up to ~65*c highest I saw was 68*c. This is not regular use load, but prime95 type load. max heat etc. I've been working on refining my OC and so been running a lot of prime to test every little setting. Surprisingly I can run prime95 in the background, and play skyrim without any FPS drop. Yes this probably has a lot to do with summer kicking in here in Perth, as ambient in my room is ~30*C most of the time. The reason ambient is so high is that I have a few reptile enclosures in the room too, these all have thermometers too, so I can easily tell what the air temperature in the room is. I do have air con for when I am in there, but I only run that when its getting hot.

 

Anyway, I firstly decided to reseat my cpu block but that only made temps worse (used different TIM). Someone shared this youtube video with me, and got me worried so decided to take a look inside my block. My block is same or very similar to one in the video.

 

Inside my block was not as bad, but there was certianly the beginning of a problem. These are the best pics of the inside I could get, as you can see there was some significant gunking after only a few months, some of the channels were completely blocked. Let this be a warning to anyone else who thought that dye would not clog their shit. It will. Also all my tubing I was using is stained already.

 

Anyway, while I had my machine in pieces, I decided to do some more work on my case and try to get the build a little more complete. The primary goal was to eliminate the rad sandwich from on top of my case, and bring the rad inside. Much easier said than done, as the rad has approx 1mm clearance on either end, and requires me to cut out large sections of case. A good excuse to get out the dremel. Here is a before pic showing internals and just look back a few pages to check out the rad sandwich on top.

 

I had to cut a section out of the top rear, to allow for the rads second set of threads to fit out, and on the front I cut out another small hole for the bleed valve. I also cut out the entire top section except a few spots to mount it, so that the air flow through the rad was unimpeded. I should have probably taken a few more pics, but I will be rebuilding again shortly anyway... so can always do it then if anyone is interested.

 

This picture shows clearance to motherboard/ram/IO backplate etc.

http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa420/...01-14225516.jpg

 

This is the back, the white 140mm fan is mounted to the rear of the chassis.

http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa420/...01-14224735.jpg

 

This is the front, where the 5.25" drive bays used to live. They had to go (obviously) but the optical drive remains and was mounted in a new position.

http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa420/...01-14224835.jpg

 

The phrase 'fits like a glove' comes to mind.

 

Anyway, after all that, I re-filled the loop with plain distilled water (to flush out the last of the coolant - will be flushed again shortly) and jump started to PSU to leak test it. After 14 hours I was satisfied I had avoided catastrophic failure and booted up the system. To my pleasure, load temps had dropped to below 60 again, thanks most likely to cleaning out the dye from the water block. To my extreme displeasure, I appear to have somehow killed my onboard NIC while removing or reinstalling the board. No lights etc. I sought advice on that here. Im certain its enabled in BIOS etc.

 

Took the board back to MSY today, and they said they can only sent it back, so I don't want to be without my pc for a few days I decided to wait. There are a lot of things I don't like about my current board so I took a look at my other options today, and I think I am going to replace it with an MSI Z68A-GD80 which looks like a real winner. Here is a summary of my reasoning:

1) has 3x "pci-e 16x" slots - tri-sli or 3-way crossfire.

2) has pci-e 1x slot ABOVE the first pci-e 16x (can not overstate this enough)

3) the battery is not located between two pci-e 16x slots

4) simple layout and plain colour scheme

5) better onboard sound than current? (possibly..) or at least a reasonable free slot to install a sound card later.

 

issues with gigabyte board:

1) bios is really bad - non eufi and seems to lack anything but basic options

2) second BIOS? doesn't work.. or isn't useful. take your pick. I have constant issues recovering from changing 1 single setting on my overclock, which means battery out for 10 minutes.

3) the battery is located in between the two PCI-e 16x slots. hard to get to sometimes without removing video card.

4) onboard lan doesn't work at all

 

i do however want to know what the 6-pin power next to the top pci-e slot is for though... any ideas? I assume onboard video? Im about to order it anyway, and will sell the z68xp-ud4 when I get it back.

 

So my machine is in pieces again, for a few more days. But here is a quick pic of everything put together on saturday night. Sorry about all the crappy camera phone pics, but I don't own a better camera.

Posted Image

 

dvd drive is permanently mounted, not just sitting there. I tried to do the cables tidy but got a bit lazy, will do a better job on the next rebuild. my psu is NOT modular as you can probably tell. don't be fooled into thinking you need one to be neat. I still need to replace this one with a 1kW or similar. Thinking enermax? But open to suggestions on decent 1kw psu.

 

best OC I managed out of the i5 was 5.4GHz on this board, looking forward to seeing if I can improve it with a better mobo.

 

thx for reading, as always comments appreciated.

 

cheers

 

edit:

have just ordered the below to continue with this build. still need to replace GPUs and PSU then grab a second SSD and I will probably be happy for a while..

1x MSI Z68A-GD80 G3 Motherboard

4x Koolance 45 Degree Fitting

1x (2x20cm) cathode kit - for along the back of the rad.

1x liquid utopia syringe (silver out of stock everywhere)

1x larger tube for my res

1x multi option top for res

Edited by p0is(+)n

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That video is scary. Good yours is not near that bad and good that you saw the vid that made you check before it was Chernobyl time.

 

I used a GD80 (or perhaps GD60, LGA 1156 version) in place of the ASUS Maximus for a while. It did the job.

Have gone back to the ASUS now though. Only swapped it out due to bad microphone power and I don't use a desk mic anymore.

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after the research i did on suitable psu i ended up with seasonic xp 1kw

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HAHAH love the commentary with the video, awesome stuff :)

 

WOW what an absolute disaster it made inside your block. Never seen anything like it before, thanks for posting it, I'm sure it will be an eye opener to many.

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Damn man! I have coloured coolant in my system, hope it hasn't done that to my water-block (though I have a different block and coolant to you).

 

Also, it's looking really nice with the internal rad! Good job on getting that monster inside your case :P

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should get some blue primochill tubing to go with that GD80.

 

also the bottom most pci-e slot on the GD80 runs at 4x. not the full 16x.

 

the 6pin connector I would imagine is for extra power to the GPU's for over clocking.

 

edit: silverstone 1200w gold psu is $259 at pccg, thats what id buy and its 100% modular.

Edited by tunksy

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I had the same thing happen when using a few different coolants and dyes, no matter how good they say they are, they aren't.

 

I read on the net somewhere that Nulon coolant was the best, for cars and CPUs, so I paid $45 for a 2 litre premixed bottle and tried it, gunked up within a few weeks. Same as the $15/5ml candy apple red dye that I got.

 

Thats why now I'm just sticking with water, silver and algaecide.

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A pump stand like this might help you get the pump/rez inside so you can put your side panel back on one day.

You can mount it pretty much anywhere as a small shelf and tape or velcro the pump onto it.

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thanks guys. that looks like a winner Opy, might have to grab one and try it out. I just ordered some shit from Gam yesterday i'll see if I can add it on.

 

i'm siding with Nuke on the coolant front.. doesn't seem worth it even it doesn't clog one time, there is always that chance.

i got some liquid utopia in the post which I am going to try this time around. a $5 syringe (3mL) is good for ~3.75L (a gallon) of distilled water. Total cost for almost 4L of good coolant, $7.

 

will definitely look at some coloured tubing now that I ditched the dye, and as my tubes now look kinda dirty already. a little red/brown stained. people told me this would be an addiction when I first bought some water cooling gear.. damn they were right. video cards would sound right, as its a 6-pin, i noticed some ASRock boards have molex here too. my GB board has nothing though. Will check the manual and see what it says.

 

Still not happy with a few things about my build, but can only improve them as finances allow.

 

Cheers for reading guys.

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I had the same thing happen when using a few different coolants and dyes, no matter how good they say they are, they aren't.

 

I read on the net somewhere that Nulon coolant was the best, for cars and CPUs, so I paid $45 for a 2 litre premixed bottle and tried it, gunked up within a few weeks. Same as the $15/5ml candy apple red dye that I got.

 

Thats why now I'm just sticking with water, silver and algaecide.

which one did you get, Red for Green Nulon?

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Another quick update today. Installed 7970 last night, replacing CF5770s and the difference is phenomenal. Was averaging 70-120 FPS in BF3 with everything turned as high as possible - didn't drop below 60 once. Playing better than I normally do too, haha. Also added some liquid utopia to the loop as has just had plain distilled water for the last few days. Hopefully don't see any issues.

 

Been much happier with the new motherboard, the most recently gigabyte boards seem pretty shitty in comparison. If I change a multiplier or setting it doesn't like, it no longer means removing the battery (clear cmos jumper never worked, even after 10 mins). On the new board i've only had to clear it once, and it has a button on the rear i/o to do so. Also has better positioned PCI-E slots, allowing the use of up to 3 video cards and sound card if I eventually want one. The on board sound (+thx settings) are actually pretty decent.

 

Currently running @ 4.7Ghz on the CPU, 1.33v and no LLC which is 100% stable so very happy with that too. Memory is running 1600mhz @ 7-9-8-20 1T so also happy with this too. Hoping to be able to get the graphics card to 1250-1300 territory which seems very achievable. I'm thinking of just ordering the EK full cover block as it looks good, but open to suggestions :) I've also got some red primochill tubing and a new res to install at some stage.

 

Here is a pic of the box as it is now, and will probably remain until I add the water block for the 7970. Its even got a side panel on, haha.

Posted Image

Edited by p0is(+)n

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A pump stand like this might help you get the pump/rez inside so you can put your side panel back on one day.

You can mount it pretty much anywhere as a small shelf and tape or velcro the pump onto it.

 

Awesome, I needed to find something like that for the new build I'm planning, dasa linked me to a radiator mount made by XSPC too, good stuff, thanks.

 

I had the same thing happen when using a few different coolants and dyes, no matter how good they say they are, they aren't.

 

I read on the net somewhere that Nulon coolant was the best, for cars and CPUs, so I paid $45 for a 2 litre premixed bottle and tried it, gunked up within a few weeks. Same as the $15/5ml candy apple red dye that I got.

 

Thats why now I'm just sticking with water, silver and algaecide.

which one did you get, Red for Green Nulon?

 

Red.

 

for $45 probly red ;)

Yeah, but it was from a supercheap, so not exactly the best to gauge on price :)

Edited by NukeJockey

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Quick update time. No new pictures but a bit of an update to where this is going. A few weeks ago I ordered a bunch of stuff from Gammods, almost all of it was on back order so I only just got it the other day. I also placed a new order with the Koolroom last night which I hope to have by the weekend. Else this next stage will be delayed until next weekend.

 

From Gam I ordered a few new res pieces/accessories (EK multioption stuff) to try and find a better solution than my res/pump combo. I have a few ideas so far.

Posted Image

 

I also got some red primoflex tubing as the clear tygon stuff I have now was badly stained by previous coolant use. was surprised how much cheaper primoflex was than tygon I originally paid for. Comes in many great colours, I already regret buying so many red things. I'm sure this will all change one day.

Posted Image

 

I got a great tube cutter from bunnings for $9.95, either in the tool isle or the reticulation isle. I was trying to use scissors before and was a bit hard to get the cut super straight with 3/8"+5/8" tubing, but this tool does a perfect job. I've seen a fair few people around here getting into water cooling recently so may help some of you.

Posted Image

 

I was getting sick of the fans sticking out the top of my case, maybe I was too stoned when I put it all together but I decided that they wouldn't fit inside without some extra modification. It turns out I was wrong, as I just installed 3 new fans internally which are a bit quieter, and have higher air pressure than the cheapo fans I'm currently using. I will now eventually be trying to restore the top of my case to look normal as I butchered it pretty badly a few months ago when I installed the rad sandwich. I've improved temps with the new fans too, at an ambient temp of 30+ in my nerd den, the CPU OC'd to 4.6ghz and running prime95, temps still do not exceed high 50s.

Posted Image

 

Lastly, I ordered a full cover block for my 7970 so soon I will see what it can really do. This I am hoping arrives before the weekend, else I will be pushing this all back to next weekend. Also ordered a bunch of fittings and caps which I need for the new gear. I'm giving the cheap enzo 45s a try as they look simillar to the koolance ones I already have (and love) but half the price. I almost bought another 140 rad for the bottom of my case, but I will see what temps are like first, hopefully fine.

Posted Image

 

I think that covers everything for now.. will try and take some decent pics after all this (read: not with my phone) assuming it doesn't all turn to shit. I will also include a pic of the other side of the case (where cables are tidied) for a laugh.

 

Any suggestions, keep em commin.

 

cheers

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Sounds awesome man! I'm using the primoflex tube myself, and it seems like pretty good stuff. Certainly for the price you can't complain.

 

Can't wait to see the GPU on water, will be good to see what it can do.....

 

 

Also, if you need another EK multioption res top (the one with the single outlet), let me know, I have a spare from my rig. I also have a pair of Antec TriCool red LED fans here too that I doubt I will use.

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hehe shit!ill rock on water!

 

hence why im thinking of selling my 6950's and getting one.

 

bout time you got some new tubing... now just a new pump to go hehe

 

watercooling bug has you firmly :D

 

nice!

 

edit: lots of red stuff and a blue board :P

Edited by tunksy

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Sounds awesome man! I'm using the primoflex tube myself, and it seems like pretty good stuff. Certainly for the price you can't complain.

 

Can't wait to see the GPU on water, will be good to see what it can do.....

 

Also, if you need another EK multioption res top (the one with the single outlet), let me know, I have a spare from my rig. I also have a pair of Antec TriCool red LED fans here too that I doubt I will use.

Thanks G-Relk, I have 2 tops to chose from at the moment but if I feel I need another I might hit you up :) I've got 10 running fans in my case at the moment (all 140mm) so I think I am right for fans. Again, might hit you up though, thanks mate :)

 

hehe shit!ill rock on water!

 

hence why im thinking of selling my 6950's and getting one.

 

bout time you got some new tubing... now just a new pump to go hehe

 

watercooling bug has you firmly :D

 

nice!

 

edit: lots of red stuff and a blue board :P

cheers mate. the pump might be okay if i ditch the combo res and hide it away. thats the plan for now.

 

the board is mostly black and silver, only has a few blue bits on heat sinks (think I can remove those) but also has blue LEDs for the CPU power phases which need to be covered in blue tac or something. i'm mostly happy with it.. for now, it shouldn't look too out of place, this is already my second mobo.

 

luckily all i should need to do is change the fans and the tubing, as everything else is monochrome, and i've got a new theme.

 

last thing i need now is a new PSU to replace this 5yr yr old 600w non modular i am still using. then i need to sleeve it. :(

Edited by p0is0n

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For a laugh I just listed this PC on gumtree to see if anyone will buy it for $3000. There were a lot of comprable systems for ~2.5k minus the water cooling. If I add up every dollar, its probably cost me a lot more. If they do, expect a new thread in building & troubleshooting announcing my new project. Haha.

Edited by p0is0n

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For a laugh I just listed this PC on gumtree to see if anyone will buy it for $3000. There were a lot of comprable systems for ~2.5k minus the water cooling. If I add up every dollar, its probably cost me a lot more. If they do, expect a new thread in building & troubleshooting announcing my new project. Haha.

is that including your 7970?? :O

 

would be sad faced...

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i already pulled the listing after i got some stupid replies from idiots on gumtree. wasn't ever intending to sell it, unless the price was right.

 

my 7970 block and accessories arrived today from the kool room, pretty quick shipping to perth (as usual from them) getting to perth next day. (ordered tuesday night, shipped wednesday, arrived thursday). so.. i will be updating this log on the weekend, unless I run into any issues.

 

the product info says the gpu block weights around 680g but i just weighed it at more like 880g so hopefully there are no issues with warping once it is installed. curious to know if its heavier than the stock cooler. i've never installed one of these before but it doesn't look too hard.

 

I have had a few ideas for further modification, or perhaps re-assembly recently. I want to reinstall the top 3.5" bays but it will mean learning how to rivet as that seems like the easiest way to do it. also probably going to ditch the dvd drive and buy a usb one. looks fuuugly sitting there and it has literally been used once since i moved it. i was thinking I could then mount the new res to the outside of the top 3.5" bays, and have the pump somewhere below, out of the way. this might neaten up the loop a bit. I still need to figure out how to fit in more rads though.. maybe another 140.2 eventually. i should probably just buy a bigger case.

 

im not sure if this all makes sense, so will probably strip it down and do some mock ups tomorrow.

 

any thoughts?

 

cheers

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Could you mount the res where you currently have the pump/res perhaps?? Or is their not enough room for it? What length multioption did you get???

 

You could then mount the pump to the bottom of the case right up against the bottom bit of the motherboard tray if it fits.

 

Go rad > res > GPU > pump > CPU > rad ???

 

 

Won't be too much waste hose then. It should look fairly neat too.

 

 

Re: the 3.5" bays - riveting stuff is piss easy. Just get a cheap rivet gun kit and away you go. Put the tail of the rivet in the head of the gun, stick the body of the rivet in the hole, then squeeze the gun a couple of times until the tail pops off - done.

 

 

 

If you do get a new case, I can highly recommend the Define XL. Such a blank canvas for modding, and there is HEAPS of room inside to mount shit.

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I think I overestimated the amount of room I really have in this case with a full size graphics card.

It should be possible to mount a res on the back where the spare vertical expansion slot is (for fan controller) but would require a bit of mod work. I was thinking I could possibly attach the brackets to the expansion slot cover, so its fully removable and doesn't mean chopping the case much. i might empty the case of hardware tonight and have a play around with things to see what can really fit where. i have the 150mm multi option tube, initially bought to semi-replace my combo res, but may just use it on its own.

 

thanks for the advice G-relk, i've seen $10 rivet gun kits at bunnings, are these as good as any for my purposes? does it matter which size rivets i use, I know they come with some.

Edited by p0is0n

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