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p0is0n

[Build Log] Project Poison

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I think I overestimated the amount of room I really have in this case with a full size graphics card.

It should be possible to mount a res on the back where the spare vertical expansion slot is (for fan controller) but would require a bit of mod work. i might empty the case and have a play around with things to see what can really fit where.

 

i've seen $10 rivet gun kits at bunnings, are these as good as any for my purposes? does it matter which size rivets i use, I know they come with some.

For what you need, that kind of thing should be fine I would think. You want the head of the rivet to fit fairly easily into the hole you want to rivet, but not to be super-loose. Too small a rivet and it won't do shit, too big and it won't fit in the hole.

 

That fan controller thingy at the back is annoying. I drilled out the rivets holding mine in, then cut off the rest with a dremel. I had a spare metal cover from somewhere in the case that I cut to size and glued over the top. You could just as easily bend it inwards and mount the res over the top though. Would take 5mins tops, and look just about as good really.

 

 

EDIT: With the rivet gun, do a test one first so you can get the hang of it, they can be a bit jumpy when the tail comes loose of the head of the rivet

Edited by G-relk

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cheers, i was thinking of just cutting off the fan controller mounting too, but didn't look at how it was attached. if I can get it how I like, that would be the best option i think. will give me a decent flat area to mount the res to.

 

appreciate the advice on rivets too, doesn't seem too hard so will probably give it a go on the weekend too.

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cheers, i was thinking of just cutting off the fan controller mounting too, but didn't look at how it was attached. if I can get it how I like, that would be the best option i think. will give me a decent flat area to mount the res to.

 

appreciate the advice on rivets too, doesn't seem too hard so will probably give it a go on the weekend too.

Like a lot of things, common sense goes a LONG way :P

 

And the best way of learning anything IMO is b having a go. Good thing with rivets, if you fuck up, they are easy enough to drill out and start again.

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I would definitely agree with that, my entire case is testament to 'having a go' especially if I ever showed anyone how dodgy some of my mod work looks up close. I had to drill about 2 or 3 holes for some of the radiator screws, didn't measure twice, just started drilling, then had to file out some of the holes i drilled for an extra mm or so. perfect now though, just best appreciated from a distance. but i did learn a lot and I am sure i would do a much better job given another opportunity.

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I covered over all my dodgy work (mostly). The cut in the top of my case for the rad is hellishly crooked, and the window isn't much better. The hole where the fan controller bracket was is heaps dodgy as well, as are some of the other hole I made for cable routing.

 

All I can say is rubber U shaped edging, grommets, and rad-grills are god :P

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Just a quick update on the weekends progress. Got everything done today, and been very happy with temps so far. GPU load temps after an hour or so of heaven running were ~40* and its easily over 30* in my computer den. Idle temps ~35* so just a few above ambient. Also installed the new res and extra HDD bays. Here is a quick pic I took tonight. I took a few more of the GPU block installation process, and will try to get a decent camera to take some proper pics of the PC.

 

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Will do a better update soon. Cheers.

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Looks ace mate!

 

Which reminds me, I have to take some shots of my rig now that it's operational.....

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Thanks for the comments guys. Yes get some pics of yours finished up too now G-relk. I already dislike the red tubing on blue, but pics do not do it justice. up close it doesn't appear so offensive. I also found out the blue LEDs on the motherboard are toggled in BIOS so thats now off. I suppose all I need to do is change tube+fans to refresh the theme whenever I get bored or have reason to.

 

I gave it about an hour of furmark @ 1080p last night and max temps got was ~46* so within 12-13 of ambient. Also gave it some 3D mark at 1000/1500 and temps didn't get above 42* (within ~10*c of ambient) so been very happy with performance so far as it was getting into the 70s on air. I wasn't sure how the 420 rad would h old up, but seems ideal for CPU+GPU. I would probably add another rad if I got another video card though. Hoping i'm going to be able to break 10k 3dmark 11 now that i can keep the card cool. I'm thinking 1000/1500 sounds perfect for 24/7 OC as it runs that at stock volts.

 

I am thinking I should have put res in the other way around, and connected the CPU hose a little bit longer to the bottom of the cylinder (instead of inverting it) but it wasn't too hard to fill this way. I may change it next time i need to drain though.

 

Riveting the extra HDD cage in place was actually dead easy, just had to drill a few small holes then pop the rivets in and squeeze the gun. took all of about 5 mins. The res holder just needed 2 small holes to mount too, and managed to fit it in a way that wouldn't interfere with the HDDs (hopefully, else the fastener will need to be shortened). I still have some free space but was getting dangerously full. Glad to now have the room to accommodate another 8-12TB. The HDD bays are facing the other way due to small oversight in planning - didn't realise the sliding trays would not fit in both ways and got it backwards, but again not a big issue for me and i can possibly fix it later.

 

Here is a pic of just another angle of the build

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And here is the hidden cable stash - the PSU will be the next thing to be replaced i think.

Yes the DVD drive is not connected, its just there in case I really need it.

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Thanks for reading

p0is0n

Edited by p0is0n

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That makes me want angled compressions and FC GPU blocks, here's my water system at leaktest time.

 

3 Metres of tubing and over a litre of water in this haha

Posted Image

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haha thanks guys. the 45* rotarys are awesome but expensive. if you look at the pictures through this log, you'll see I've slowly acquired more fittings and it gets a bit neater every time. Been reading too many insanely neat build logs on OCAU so had to try and match it. I'd say there is less than 1L of water in this loop, maybe about 800mL. My first loop (page 1.. its almost embarrassing now) had less components and almost a full litre of coolant.

 

Those look like some decent rad fans Morgoth, I wish they made thicker powerful 140mm fans but the selection pales compared to 120mm.

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Yeah the fans on the bottom rad are 3000rpm scythe ultra kaze I run 5v most of the time, I made a 12v/5v switch to all 6 fat fans.

The top 3 on the feser xfx or whatever the rad is called are NMB server fans, similar specs to the kaze fans, about 120-130 cfm.

I have 4 220 cfm Nidec beta v 5500rpm fans to strap on the side of the gpus and over the mobo vrms when benching, they sound like screaming so I don't use them otherwise.

 

And I agree, 140m fans are expensive and not that shit hot.

 

I wanted to run those comp fittings but it was out of budget at the time, but they look so good and save so much tubing and reduce flow resistance

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Ok well I am up a bit late tonight, just another quick update; I decided to upgrade the CPU to a 2600k and got one pretty cheap off someone on OCAU. In no way was the 2500k inadequate really, except in a few benchmarks, I just wanted to upgrade and the price was right.

 

So far new CPU is 24 hours of prime blend stable at 4.6ghz (1.33v) which was just a bit of a guess at settings without any fine tuning yet, this is literally second boot up, first was to make sure it worked at stock speeds. Seems like a nice chip. Apparently max 53x multi but I haven't tested that yet, no doubt will get to it soon. The actual upgrade was pretty painless, other than it being a bit of a tight spot to work in, it was easy enough to swap out the CPU without any complications. I didn't take any pics of that as I figured you're probably sick of my crappy phone camera pics by now. Temps are a little bit higher than the 2500k but I think it's normal for the 2600k to be a bit warmer. Gets very hot in my study during the afternoon when I saw highest temps.

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Also as promised before, here is a few pics of full cover block installation. Its a pretty straight forward process. Sorry about these pics too. :D

There is no 7970 install guide, but this is about identical, its what I followed anyway.

 

Firstly here is the card with the stock cooler attached, nothing special here, this is just a before shot.

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Here is the underside of the water block, with the thermal pads cut to size and attached. There are different colours (different thickness) that need to be used on certain areas.

Pretty easy to cut up, as there is a little diagram advising the dimensions of each pad. I used a ruler and a stanley knife to do it quickly.

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Next up I had to remove the stock cooler, again pretty easy, just requires unscrewing a few screws and handling the card carefully.

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And now with the fresh thermal paste applied to the GPU. You might notice the GPU has been lapped a little, but that won't really help much any more.

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Lastly block attached using all of the same screws used to hold the stock cooler. Very simple process overall, not as difficult as I was expecting for some reason. There isn't much more too it than this.

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Hope those pics might be of use to some people considering full cover blocks. Will probably get into some benching with the new CPU soon, so will share the results when I do.

Hoping to be able to match my 2500k but with hyper threading.

 

Cheers,

 

p0is0n

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Wow, the 7970 have a very similar PCB to the reference 6970! Besides the extra RAM chips, and the caps near the VR's, it's almost a direct clone!

 

 

Certainly a very nice little setup you got man :)

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Ok no updates for a long time, mostly because I haven't done anything significant to my machine.. I've just been using it :) My loops is around 10 months old now though, and my temps have been creeping up as summer approaches and I've had 'the itch™' to kind of tidy things up and finish this project... chances are that will never happen but I may get one step closer.

 

Pretty sure I have killed the fan controller that came with my case.. not surprising but annoying. For the last few months I've just had the fans connected to my power board running full speed, they aren't noisy but they also aren't completely silent. I will need to get another fan controller I can fit into the case somehow to get it back to silent. Any suggestions on a small/cheap controller I could hide somewhere in the case, obviously I have no drive bays to use for this..

 

A few weeks ago I saw someone with the same pump as me on OCAU and they actually had a mounting plate for it, I've never seen this for sale anywhere on the EK website, PCCG, Koolroom, Gam etc.. but PLE sell them. They seem to be the only seller in Aus from what I can tell. Good stuff. My biggest complaint about this pump was that it didn't have much in the way of mounting options, followed by the lack of other options such as pump tops. Really regretting not getting a D5.. anyway.. While I was at PLE I also grabbed one of the EK anti-cyclone bits for my res to see what effect it has, if any, but it didn't fit as I think they are designed for the 60mm res and I believe I only have a 50mm.. it was too wide anyway.

 

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I intend to remove my top HDD cage as it's no longer required, and currently empty, and possibly mount my pump there, or maybe at the bottom of the case, using the new mounting kit. Only cost $7 which is good too.

 

I want to replace these red SpectrePros with some black ones, which seem to be 120CFM+ as opposed to the 87CFM these produce, and not much louder. I also need to get a fan controller I can tuck away somewhere as I want this to be silent most of the time, right now it can sometimes be heard due to the SpecresPro fans running at full speed.

 

I am also still hunting for a decent fan grille for the top, 420 doesn't seem to be a common size, kind of wish I went for 120mm fans now since they seem much more common and a lot more options. I might still try and squeeze in a second rad somewhere, even if it means further butchering this case. I got a slim 280 rad off the ocau forums for $20 so will try and accommodate it somewhere.

 

I had a bit of time last night, so I spent about an hour dismantling my machine and then draining out my loop. Everything has been getting dusty and I even found a little spider web around the pump :/ As my loop is about 10 months old now, I also wanted to make sure nothing funky was going on and will be having a peek inside all of the blocks to make sure I don't have any problems.

 

Here is an example of the dust building up on the radiator... Wasn't possible to get in there and clean it without taking the fans off.. which was a challenge in itself.

 

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My water has appeared fairly clear when in the res every time I've had a good look at it, even in the picture above it appears fairly clear, but I noticed as I began to drain the loop that the water being flushed out of the rad/cpu block into the res was a little milky looking and it started to look like this.. not a great picture I know but I hope I am getting a bit better at using this phone to take pics...

 

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I also noticed a white buildup around the edges of almost all of my comps and I am hoping this is not a bad sign... I also noticed a similar layer over bits of the res once I took it apart, just like a sort of milky residue. Has anyone had this kind of buildup before?

 

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I also took a quick pic in the middle of the drain process.. doesn't reveal much unfortunately, I wish I took a few more during the process. I started by screwing a tap piece and some spare tube onto my res, then opening my bleed port on the rad and letting gravity so the work for me. Once the flow here ended, I unscrewed one of the caps on the bottom of my GPU block and let more water get out from there too, then I disconnected a few sections of tube and removed the res first, then also removed the pump. I then disconnected the tube from the top of the GPU and put caps on it and removed my GPU from it's socket. Then I unscrewed the hose from my rad and put caps on it too, then unmounted my CPU block, drained the residual water our and left it to dry.

 

Posted Image

 

In summary... things are getting dirty and I don't approve of that. Going to have to give all of this a good clean (any tips on this?) and will probably test fit and reassemble it temporarily on the weekend while I plan a few more improvements.

 

Thanks for reading.

 

EDIT:

 

So today, after everything got a chance to dry out overnight, i noticed the white residue on everything, and the inside of all my tubes is lined with it, is this the problem with Primochill other people were having? Will have to go check that thread in a minute..

 

Here is the best pic I could get of the inside of a tube..

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I then apprehensively opened my CPU block for inspection and was not happy with what I saw.. it explains the approx 10c increase in temps I was seeing. A bit of pinky/white gunk clogging around half the channels.. :/ Now i am going to have to really inspect everything and give it a thorough clean.

 

At least there is no corrosion/nickel flaking that I can see.. haven't opened my GPU block yet though.

 

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and

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Edited by p0is0n

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I say put proper coolant into the loop if you're just running plain water. At a guess, I would say the mixture of Nickel and copper is reacting together and causing the damage.

 

I think my loop is going to be up for some maintenance soon, so I'm curious to see if there is any change in my liquid. I used proper coolant though, and all my gear is copper, with black nickel fittings, so min should be about the same colour as when I put it in.

 

FWIW I used this coolant, might be worth a look into...

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I have had a simmilar thing in my loop, all my tubing went milky white (powdery when dry) but my block was clean.From what i could gather it was due to plasticisers leaching from the tubing (Primoflex/Tygon).

that was with distilled+liquid utopia then added a silver kill koil when i cleaned the loop and within 3mths it was back to milky white tubing.

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I have had a simmilar thing in my loop, all my tubing went milky white (powdery when dry) but my block was clean.From what i could gather it was due to plasticisers leaching from the tubing (Primoflex/Tygon).

that was with distilled+liquid utopia then added a silver kill koil when i cleaned the loop and within 3mths it was back to milky white tubing.

Similar case happened to me with my old loop, went all cloudy after a while, so I drained it and put a piece of silver in it, same thing happened again, after that I went to the coolant above. I had an algae killer in it too, so it wasn't growth or anything. Similar setup to my current loop, components were copper with black nickel plated barbs.

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Thanks guys.. from what I can tell it's a result of the tubing.. seen a massive thread over on OCAU regarding primoflex tube causing this exact issue. I gave everything a thorough clean and rebuilt the loop on saturday with some different tube and its all back up and running.. no pics yet but I did take a few.

 

Thanks for that suggestion Nuke, maybe a little elaborate for my needs though, would be nice to see a few other options for expansion slot fan controllers though.. will see if I can find anything. Fractal cases give you a small fan controller and a separate expansion slot to put it in so I will always have one spare for that.

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Oh, dang, that means I'm going to have to change tube as I run the black primoflex. Lame....

I think it may just be specific batches.. my water didn't appear cloudy until I started draining it, but had the same white caking on all my fittings and blocks/rad.

Check out this thread on OCAU for a bit more info.

 

Here is a few pics from inside my GPU block to go with the above.. it wasn't pretty :/

 

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And here is a quick shot of my leak testing... didn't have any problems so fired it all back up on Sunday but haven't taken any better pics yet..

 

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Edited by p0is0n

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let us know how the tubing goes, which did you go with?

cloudy shit doesn't exactly look the cleanest and to hell with replacing it every 2-4 mths.

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