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Need advice for a water cooling HAF X build?

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Pretty much, novice at water cooling.

 

Had to RMA H80 three times because of issues.

 

Don't like the Kuhler 920.

 

Time to water cool properly!

 

 

 

So, I'd mainly like to know whether I should just get an all-in-one kit or choose parts separately.

 

Apparently a 360 RAD will fit perfectly in my case -also wondering whether it is worth going with push/pull instead of just pull or push.

 

Mainly the other question is what pump should I be looking for as a minimum, I'm looking to cool my CPU and 2 6970's. I think that is the extent to what I'll cool with water cooling.

 

Also, I'd like one of those dual reservoirs/pump fittings whether if it comes together or you have to buy it separately.. I want it to fit snuggly in my drive bays!

 

So yeah, probably looking to buy a kit off PCCG but wondering if a kit will be adequate to cool a CPU and Two graphics cards, with only one 360 Rad.

 

My aim overlocking-wise is to get somewhere around <5. Bear in mind I do have an FX8120. So what I'd like may not be possible. But around 4.5 would be cool.

 

Also obviously overclock my graphics slightly too.

 

 

 

So yeah, suggestions please and advice.. I am no guru like you guys :) Thanks!

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XSPC RayStorm D5 RX360 Water Cooling Kit $309

you could go with custom selected parts but this covers it fairly well with a good strong pump

 

XSPC RayStorm GPU Water Block $64

XSPC RayStorm GPU Water Block $64

the gpu blocks will need barbs clamps and extra hose

depending on what heatsink is on your 6970 you may or may not need to place new ones on the vrm and memory

 

you cant expect temps to be great though with three things dumping heat into a 3x120 rad unless you use some louder fans than what it comes with but they will make for a good start

 

those prices are pccg but it may be worth checking out gammods and the kool room to see what they have

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XSPC RayStorm GPU Water Block $64

XSPC RayStorm GPU Water Block $64

the gpu blocks will need barbs clamps and extra hose

depending on what heatsink is on your 6970 you may or may not need to place new ones on the vrm and memory

 

Thanks so much for your help!

 

If I were to go with full waterblocks for my 6970, will this system still be adequate? Do I need full water blocks? I have a Sapphire.

 

I don't actually have 2x 6970s at the moment, but want the system to cater for it as I will probably be upgrading to two soon.

 

If I can at least see distinctive temprature results and am able to overclock further then currently, well that's all I'm really after.

 

Mainly, it's just for the look & feel factor.. and the fun of building and designing it :)

 

What about push/pull, does that actually make a difference?

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you can get full cover but it will cost more than twice as much and you will need to replace them when you upgrade from 6970

unless you find a second 6970 really cheap secondhand from a mate i wouldnt bother adding another your probably better of to just upgrade to a new gpu

gpu only blocks are easy and will provide better temps if you can use stock heat plate for vrm if you cant then they are a bit more work

most people go full cover blocks as all they care about is the look not temps so if thats what you want and your happy to spend ~$300 every time you upgrade the gpu's for looks go for it

push pull can shave of a few c but it also adds more noise just like higher speed fans would and its of more benefit on a rad with dense fins where as the RX360 is fairly open for low speed fans

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Yep go with the XSPC Raystorm kit comes with the best pump money can buy, in the res you want and is ridiculously cheap on PCCG, just don't buy the last one as im waiting on buying the new kit myself :P

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yay, great to hear you are getting putting a proper loop in your rig. HAF X's have a ton of room so go for the thickest rads you can fit. a 120.3 rad will struggle though to cool 3 blocks. perhaps look at adding a 120.1 for at the rear or see if you could fit a another rad at the front somewhere, maybe in on of the many 5.25' bays.

 

xspc stuff is really good value for money.

 

there are some great pump/res kits these days, like this one thats on for preorder at the moment;

http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_p...oducts_id=20466

 

here is a good link also

http://www.evga.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=1550744&mpage=1

 

other w/c sites to check are

http://www.thekoolroom.com/

http://www.gammods.com.au/store/

 

best of luck

;-)

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For 3 blocks with 1 or 2 rads, I'd prefer a DDC pump, I found it was better in that situation than the D5, however I think the D5 would do okay with 1 rad and a proper pump top.

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or if you get the koolance 24v version of the d5 and a controler to run it at 24v then it will beat the ddc for head presure and flow but it would also make more noise when at full speed and use three times as much power

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It's official, I bought the XSPC RayStorm D5 RX360 kit from PCCG.

 

Picked it up today along with the EK UV lime green pre-mixed coolant. (and some UV lights) One litre should be adequate yeah?

 

So let's hope the radiator fits! (apparently it does)

 

I did some research before buying it and apparently it's a great kit like you have said.

 

I think just for the time being it will be solely a CPU loop and then I'll go from there, expensive kit!

But it's awesome to just buy one thing rather then several and trying to mix and match. At least this way I'll know it'll all work in harmony lol

 

Is there a problem with draining the coolant then recycling it through the system?

 

Pretty exciting, can't wait to start installing and then I'll post pix when it's complete!

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personally i wouldnt use that uv coolant....

 

do yourself a favor and do some research on uv coolants and staining, clogging etc.

 

the kit is excellent value for money and a great way to get started.

 

good luck and take your time. share pics.

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personally i wouldnt use that uv coolant....

 

do yourself a favor and do some research on uv coolants and staining, clogging etc.

 

the kit is excellent value for money and a great way to get started.

 

good luck and take your time. share pics.

 

eeek

 

I was excited for a uv lookin' machine.

 

Are you talking about EK's coolant specifically or just any UV coolant or any dyed coolant?

 

Not sure I wanna do the research haha.. don't wanna find out that I bought the UV lights and UV coolant for nothing. Especially how I have clear tubing too.

 

I assumed since many water cooling companies make the parts so I thought the coolant would be okay to use within their systems too. : \ :(

 

 

 

irrelevant edit;

 

i just looked through the forum navigation a few times..

where the hell do people post pics of their builds/setups/rigs etc?

Edited by ellipse

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not just ek's coolant generally all UV coolants cause clogging and stain your tubing after a time (~3months) it means you will have to clean out your loop more regularly if you want to maintain performance/cleanliness.

 

generally, we use uv tubing now such as primoflex over uv coolant. in the long run it'll cost less to get new tubing over buying new tube and new coolant.

 

the coolant wont hurt your parts, its the way the parts are designed the pins/fins or whatever layout of a water block results in flow resistance and helps the clogging to occur (after all it isnt straight up water you are outting in your loop)

most of us use distilled water (can get it from woolies 4L for a few dollars) and liquid utopia, which kills off bacteria and algae

 

if you decide to chance tubing youd need this size any colour in that size.

 

Post 'build log' thread in building troubleshooting and mooding. that's where most do it!

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not just ek's coolant generally all UV coolants cause clogging and stain your tubing after a time (~3months) it means you will have to clean out your loop more regularly if you want to maintain performance/cleanliness.

 

generally, we use uv tubing now such as primoflex over uv coolant. in the long run it'll cost less to get new tubing over buying new tube and new coolant.

 

the coolant wont hurt your parts, its the way the parts are designed the pins/fins or whatever layout of a water block results in flow resistance and helps the clogging to occur (after all it isnt straight up water you are outting in your loop)

most of us use distilled water (can get it from woolies 4L for a few dollars) and liquid utopia, which kills off bacteria and algae

 

if you decide to chance tubing youd need this size any colour in that size.

 

Post 'build log' thread in building troubleshooting and mooding. that's where most do it!

Okay, awesome cheers for the advice :)

 

Might have to make another stop at PCCG then! Then again I do have clear tubing and coolant.. may as well just use it now I guess and then when I decide to clean - I'll just swap the the tubing over to the UV tubing and then just use distilled water and that utopia stuff.

I literally thought that the 'coolant' had some ingreadiants/properties which improve the water cooling temprature and keeps it cooler like automotive coolant.. I guess computers don't need it to that extreme though. That's kinda the main reason I went with the coolant as well. I guess it's kinda pointless buying it then if it isn't for the premix convinience.

 

Also, I was browsing alot of cool water cooling accessories (my, there is quite alot), would it be worth it if I made a 'drain line' and had it coming straight out the back of the case through a PCI slot? With like a shut-off/release valve out the top to allow it out when it's cleaning time?

Now I want to get a water flow indicator too just for the looks.. and a temperature sensor (this screws into the extra hole on the reservoir on the back correct? (I think mine has 4 holes 3 + 1 draing plug) ahh so much stuff. So much money. I guess I just got myself into another costly hobby haha.

What about those quick release connectors that don't leak? Two of those would make it so much easier when it comes to cleaning time, does it obstruct the flow much?

Pretty neat little accessories.. also like that air release valve for built up pressure. Cool!

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The coolants are ok to use, alot steer clear because as everyone has said they get gunky, but all that means is you will need to drain and replace liquid more often, say every other month instead of 6 -12 months with distilled/deionized water. So once you have used your coolant maybe then buy your new tube and water.

 

I know what you mean by expensive, as i said before i was going to buy the same kit but the ex240 version, but i just ended up buying it all custom which bumped the price $100.

 

Drainage plugs are common and will make draining easier, not sure on the air release valve... you should be able to do that just by opening the res.

 

This is only stuff i have found from research, this will be my first loop as well, so good luck with it.

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The coolants are ok to use, alot steer clear because as everyone has said they get gunky, but all that means is you will need to drain and replace liquid more often, say every other month instead of 6 -12 months with distilled/deionized water. So once you have used your coolant maybe then buy your new tube and water.

 

I know what you mean by expensive, as i said before i was going to buy the same kit but the ex240 version, but i just ended up buying it all custom which bumped the price $100.

 

Drainage plugs are common and will make draining easier, not sure on the air release valve... you should be able to do that just by opening the res.

 

This is only stuff i have found from research, this will be my first loop as well, so good luck with it.

Yeah I'll do exactly that. :) Guess I'm sticking with 7/16 tubing and fittings since that's what came in the kit and I just ordered 6 more compression fittings.

 

Also just ordered a Bitspower water flow indicator!! Why? Because I think watching a little ball bearing fan spin as water rushes through is cool to watch ahah

 

And yeah a Koolance Drain plug. Just to make it a little easier to drain my system. Already dreading the day when I have to do that haha.

 

Now some more waiting :(

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Theres a lot of nonsense about dyes in my experience. Ives used the Prim Chill dyes from gammods extensively and have had no clogging whatsoever. This includes opening up my XSPC Rasa block to check for build up when i have expanded my loop. When i first got into wc i used the thermaltake coolant, now that stuff left a lot of gunk in my cpu block so i could steer clear.

 

I wouldn't worry about needing to clean out your loop every month or two. I just added a new rad and a second pump to my loop and did a full breakdown to inspect everything. Zero build up of gunk and the distilled water was still the same colour it was when i first added the blue dye in September, the last time i broke the loop down.

 

next time you drain the loop get some silver kill coils for anti-bacterial and dye if you want colour and use distilled water as its about $2.5 for 2 lt from the supermarket.

 

The value of push pull fans is dependent on how much you want to spend. I've got my 140 only on push, but both my 240s on push pull, more because i ended up with extra fans.

 

Enjoy custom watercooling, you'll get hooked like all the rest of us!.

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EVERYONE I'm doing my water cooling loop now.

 

Being the noob I am, I have no idea WHICH is the PUMP output and the input of the D5 PUMP DUAL RES.

 

Can someone quickly confirm if it's the top or the bottom?

 

I think the top is the input for "just cooled radiator coolant" and the bottom is the direct pump output. But that's my guess.

 

 

ANY IDEAS????

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

http://www.google.com.au/imgres?um=1&h...29,r:6,s:0,i:92

 

^ Picture Link.

Edited by ellipse

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if its anything like my xspc res it cam with a manual... although being clear mine was rather obvious

I didn't get a manual with my pump. Only for the CPU block.

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If its the same as mine from a few threads under this one, the bottom is the inlet and the top is the output.

 

Edit, just looked at your pic and what i said is right.

Edited by stash

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If its the same as mine from a few threads under this one, the bottom is the inlet and the top is the output.

 

Edit, just looked at your pic and what i said is right.

 

Awesome thank-you so much for your help!

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If its the same as mine from a few threads under this one, the bottom is the inlet and the top is the output.

 

Edit, just looked at your pic and what i said is right.

 

Awesome thank-you so much for your help!

 

 

It's all in and working now, CPU is on 25degrees at stock clock. Pretty good. :D Say, I installed it the other way. Does it really matter if the radiator goes into the output of the cpu block?? All I could imagine is the res and pump getting slightly hotter water?

Edited by ellipse

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As long as the res feeds directly to the pump but as its a joined unit its doing that. A loop can go in any direction, once the water reaches its maximum heat level it will stay there regardless of what direction it goes through components.

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As long as the res feeds directly to the pump but as its a joined unit its doing that. A loop can go in any direction, once the water reaches its maximum heat level it will stay there regardless of what direction it goes through components.

 

Okay good. because I kinda made a mistake, even after being told which is the correct configuration for my pump. I guess I overlooked your reply to the inlet/output and assumed instead! :|

 

But I agree, it reaches a maximum temperature and stays there it won't make a difference.

 

Although, if this is the case why does my CPU block say 'IN'.. does it matter?

 

This is my current configuration - : Radiator OUT to CPU, CPU OUT to RES, RES OUT to PUMP (it's a all in one so can't change this) and finally pump out to Raditator.

 

Do you think this configuration is fine? Temperature wise it's doing great. Pumps quiet, everything is running smoothly. And god I love this Bitspower water flow indicator haha.

 

Already have a stable OC of 4.6 on an a FX8120! Stock is 3.1-3.4 turbo.

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some blocks are made so that the water jets into the centre

if you have water running through the block the wrong way the cpu will run a little warmer but the water temp itself wont change

as far as loop order the pump itself creates some heat so people suggest the ideal setup is with the pump before the rad and the cpu right after the exit from the rad but if a ~125w cpu only increases the water temp ~0.5c on its way past how much difference is a 20w pump going to make? jack shit

so while folowing that guidleine is fine it shouldnt be at the expence of extra tube or tight bends which can reduce flow rate

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