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aussiejunior

Radiator question

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Well guys it has come time for me to replace my aging and tired watercooling loop. (it's about 4 years old).

Ive been busy assembling and buying parts for a new rig to replace my old i7920 setup as its getting finiky and having alot of issues.

My question is that I now have a i5 3570k, asus rog maximus v formula and a gtx g80.

How big a radiator will I need to effectively cool these compnents down?

I'm not overclocking atm as there is no need as the system is very powerful allready, but dont mind doing abit of oc here and there for benchmarking and to show off my rig.

 

The radiator I'm looking at purchasing is a 2*200mm from www.frozencpu.com

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14803/ex...?tl=g30c95s1586

 

Will it be enough to cool everything down if overclocked?

It's going to be mounted externally so there are no worries about space requirement lol.

 

The rest of the watercooled loop will include

xspc raystorm cpu block

xspc gtx680 waterblock

Fusion thermo asus waterblock (pre built onto the motherboard allready)

Frozenq liquid fusion dual bay resevoir (with a pump mount)

koolance pmp450-s pump (with 24v controller)

3/8'' primo chill red uv tubing

3/8'' compression fittings

ek blood red coolant

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should do, maybe try an internal mount as well just so just have plenty of headroom

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I wouldn't recommend using any kind of dye or coloured coolant, it will only lead to trouble. I tried the same EK blood red coolant and it started breaking down and clogging my blocks within just a few months. Stick to distilled water and liquid utopia, should have no problems that way. Especially as you are already using red tubing, you won't even see this stuff.

 

As I understand it, the general rule of thumb for this kind of stuff is about 2x120 for CPU and approx 120 more for each additional component. You plan to cool CPU, GPU and motherboard.. it might be cutting it a bit fine, but should be adequate. I am running a 3x140 for my CPU and GPU which doesn't get too hot even overclocked around 40%. I don't imagine the motherboard would add too much to this.. so you might be fine :)

 

I might suggest another rad if you can fit one though, more rad is always good, and will give you plenty of headroom for overclocking, which I assume is your objective with all this cooling. You will have a decent enough pump that flow shouldn't be an issue.

 

 

EDIT:

 

Here are some pics of my block after about 2 months, when using the blood red coolant from EK.. you will see the dye has broken down and started to clog up the block. This started increasing my temps which was enough for my to notice and check inside.. glad I did before it got worse.

Pic1

Pic2

 

Here is a video from a member over at OCAU too, showing a similar effect with dye.

Edited by p0is0n

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That should definitely be enough radiator space, I run a 7970 and i7 980X on a 480mm (4x120) and it's fine with enough airflow.

 

What fans are you going to use? I don't know of many 200mm fans offhand, but you'd want some with high pressure if you're going to overclock.

 

Definitely avoid the red coloured coolant - you have red tubes anyway, you'll hardly notice the red. If you want the bay res to be red, consider putting some red LEDs in or around it.

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Couldn't you use red coolant, instead of green, from the autostore?

I know you cant mix the glycol and whatever the red one is, but its DESIGNED for high heat anti boil.

http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online-st...664#Description

 

Also, if you want blue, Honda uses blue coolant. Its actually the green glycol type, but they colour it blue to know you're using OEM fluids.

Edited by Master_Scythe

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car coolant will normally destroy any acrylic parts in the loop

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automotive high heat != CPU high heat. unless you like running at the 85/90 degree mark... if ur water rig is running above 45 you should be worried. an engine running at that.... well, it aint running...

 

glycol reduces the thermal capacity of ur liquid. unless you've got dissimilar metals (cue wet trout slap), don't. if u can get real distilled, use that, else deionised. if your scheme water is soft (ie, few minerals, rain, dam etc) even that's OK (most are bore sourced, don't use in that case). I used rainwater for 3 years without a hitch. if ur worried about bugs, a good slash of metho helps keep the green down (about 15%). but a jug of deionised will do great in most loops. if u want colour, a drip or 3 of food grade dye is fine (sunset orange, aqua green, regal purple, check cakemaking forums for some really cool palettes, or just get a glass of water n screw around with ratios, keep a notepad handy, n get creative)

 

but the question is radiator size. if you just want stock, remember a heatsink is less efficient than a radiator. so if ur stock fan is 92mm, you can probably get away with a fast 80mm. probably. nobody here would condone it, but you won't melt it. what is most relevant is what's gonna fit. be practical. go for the biggest you can fit into ur rig. what you can mount is most important, especially if ur upgrading an existing rig, rather than remoulding the whole machine.

 

 

if your on the upgrade path, there are many things to consider. flow rate. tubing size. fan speeds. way back when, I replaced a 600 lph pump with a 3000 lph. <3 degrees, on a single 120mm heatercore, even with an extra 50w being pumped into the loop by a stupidhuge pump (itdidexplodeanfloodmyrigbutwewonttalkaboutthat) a different rig got <2 degrees goin from 10mm to 13mm pipe, everything else being the same. are you for silence or performance? there are wide spaced radiators that do very well at a whole 600 rpm (120mm), but can't hold a candle to a tight grid at 1200 rpm.

 

but u look like uve got that on lock. go large as u can fit.

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car coolant will normally destroy any acrylic parts in the loop

I always heard that but i was running a loop for 4 years with Glycol in it and an acrylic res.

 

Just changed the loop around and replaced the res, still as it was when i put it in no cracking or misting of the acrylic.

 

Though i was only running with 5% glycol.

 

 

automotive high heat != CPU high heat. unless you like running at the 85/90 degree mark... if ur water rig is running above 45 you should be worried. an engine running at that.... well, it aint running...

Chuck a R9 290 on there and you could easily be hitting 90+ if you hammer it long enough.

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for coolant just use distilled + silver kill coil (if you want to use a biocide liquid utopia has been fantastic in my loop.)

 

from memory i read something about 1 240mm rad for cpu and another 120mm rad for each other component.

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heh a bump from 2012

 

alcohol i do believe is the antifreeze component in glycol that drys out and cracks acrylic but maybe some acrylic is resistant or has a coating to protect it

 

silver kill coils can stop single celled organisms from getting started but not multi celled and if you have nickle plated components in your loop its a bit like mixing copper and alloy it can destroy the nickel platting

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lol, didn't even notice

 

but then the front page goes back a whole year... my oh my

 

 

*takes a potshot at bouncing tumbleweed*

 

*rides on through town*

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I use 240mm UT45 & phobya 200mm for my setup. Keeps both my oc sli 760s and 5.2ghz 2500k below 60c. Day ti day never goes above 45 @ 4.6.

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automotive high heat != CPU high heat. unless you like running at the 85/90 degree mark... if ur water rig is running above 45 you should be worried.

 

You know, to re qutoe the original bump.... This sounds very wrong to me.

a lot of us are extreme overclockers, and 85/90deg isnt worrying.

My i7 has been doing 95deg load temps for almost 6 years now, still stable as all hell (thats on air mind you). I dont think a 10 degree drop is too out of the picture for a water rig.

 

It's not like Haswel refresh dropped the TJMAX by much, on my D0 i7 its 105DegC, and on haswell its 100DegC.

True TCase Max is about 75Deg, but 80-90deg wouldn't scare me for a second.

 

As I like to point out; lots of people say 'halve', so lets say I 1/3 a CPUs lifespan..... probably the oldest computers I worked on (that I knew had serious loads) were McDonalds ordering terminals. old pentium 1's running DOS; these were well over 20 years old when a few crashed and I had to go and fix em.... So lets round it off nice and square and say i shorten my lifespan to 7 years.

By that point its new rig time anyway.

 

The older guys who are used to clocking older stuff, like the old AMD Thunderbird chips will know what heat REALLY is, 130*C? She'll be right! (and she was)

 

I mean face it, with the stock cooler, a CPU can easily breach 80deg, yet, the thermal cutoff is still 100deg.

Intel are known for reliability, and they know a lot of 'desktop' cpu's are used in low cost servers. They're not going to set the TJMAX below what the chip can actually handle for pretty extended periods.

 

a raditator is a radiator is a radiator, clear SILICONE tubing is chemical resistant, and Glycol lubes all types of pumps.

The ONLY concern is acrylic, but even then, I dont think ive ever heard of an acrylic res bursting due to coolant.

besides, 10% should be enough to keep corrosion and mould out, and you get a pretty green colour (or blue, from honda, or red from Kia, or Orange from Repco)

Edited by Master_Scythe

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