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peter_4059

Windows issues

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Hi all,

 

Just recently I've started having issues with Windows 7. PC is taking a long time to boot up - HDD light staying on throughout process. When it finally boots I cant seem to get an internet connection. Decided to reboot and it goes to install updates however this is taking a very long time also - again HDD light remaining on. The update installation does seem to be progressing but very slowly.

 

Any thoughts on what is going on or what to do about it?

 

Cheers,

 

Peter

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Sounds like a dodgy hard drive or one of many Windows Update issues, some of which are fixable some of which are reinstall only fixes.

Just tried Startup repair however it is just sitting there "searching for problems" - no apparent progress and the HDD light remains lit.

 

I'm thinking I'll unplug the second HDD (with all the games files on it) and remove the GPU (go back to integrated graphics) and see if it will boot like that. After that I thought I'd try clean windows re-install and finally replace SSD.

 

 

Does that sound like the right plan?

 

Cheers,

 

Peter

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Sounds like a dodgy hard drive or one of many Windows Update issues, some of which are fixable some of which are reinstall only fixes.

Just tried Startup repair however it is just sitting there "searching for problems" - no apparent progress and the HDD light remains lit.

 

I'm thinking I'll unplug the second HDD (with all the games files on it) and remove the GPU (go back to integrated graphics) and see if it will boot like that. After that I thought I'd try clean windows re-install and finally replace SSD.

 

 

Does that sound like the right plan?

 

Cheers,

 

Peter

 

OK made some progress - disconnected the HDD but left the SSD (with windows) and it booted properly. So I guess that is either an issue with the HDD, the cable or something on the MB?

 

Any suggestions of what to do next?

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Ran windows update - all worked fine. Then tried connecting to different SATA port/different cable but found the same issue - with HDD connected it gets stuck on the black starting windows screen/without HDD connected it booted fine. However after changing connections a couple of times now it wont POST - stops on ASROCK DR DEBUG code 55 "Memory not installed".

 

Things are going from bad to worse - ready to throw the whole thing off the roof :(

 

Need to find some help now before I stuff it up more!

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your last post is a little unclear, Im not sure if it doesn't work at all now, or just with the HDD connected that it doesn't work.

 

if it works again with the HDD unplugged, but the SSD connected, then that points to a faulty HDD to me. your machine will need to identify the device when it boots up, and if it can't do that it will usually hang or perform really slowly.

if it doesn't POST at all, no matter what's connected, might be motherboard related, but seems unlikely. try removing all HDDs and see if it POSTS then? if so, add your SSD again, then see if it POSTS?

 

what kind of HDD is it? you can download diagnostic tools from the manufacturers website (eg. WD tools) and run a quick/long check on the drive.

will usually confirm if there is an issue and if it's in warranty, it will probably let you know.

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your last post is a little unclear, Im not sure if it doesn't work at all now, or just with the HDD connected that it doesn't work.

 

if it works again with the HDD unplugged, but the SSD connected, then that points to a faulty HDD to me. your machine will need to identify the device when it boots up, and if it can't do that it will usually hang or perform really slowly.

if it doesn't POST at all, no matter what's connected, might be motherboard related, but seems unlikely. try removing all HDDs and see if it POSTS then? if so, add your SSD again, then see if it POSTS?

 

what kind of HDD is it? you can download diagnostic tools from the manufacturers website (eg. WD tools) and run a quick/long check on the drive.

will usually confirm if there is an issue and if it's in warranty, it will probably let you know.

Thanks for the advice. I'm getting the POST error with the SSD connected but no HDD. I've removed the GPU and disconnected all MB header connections leaving only the CPU, RAM, SSD and power but will try again with the SSD disconnected. The HDD is WD caviar blue 1TB. How do you test the HDD if the machine refuses to boot with it connected? Everything is less than 12 months old so should all still be under warranty.

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your last post is a little unclear, Im not sure if it doesn't work at all now, or just with the HDD connected that it doesn't work.

 

if it works again with the HDD unplugged, but the SSD connected, then that points to a faulty HDD to me. your machine will need to identify the device when it boots up, and if it can't do that it will usually hang or perform really slowly.

if it doesn't POST at all, no matter what's connected, might be motherboard related, but seems unlikely. try removing all HDDs and see if it POSTS then? if so, add your SSD again, then see if it POSTS?

 

what kind of HDD is it? you can download diagnostic tools from the manufacturers website (eg. WD tools) and run a quick/long check on the drive.

will usually confirm if there is an issue and if it's in warranty, it will probably let you know.

Thanks for the advice. I'm getting the POST error with the SSD connected but no HDD. I've removed the GPU and disconnected all MB header connections leaving only the CPU, RAM, SSD and power but will try again with the SSD disconnected. The HDD is WD caviar blue 1TB. How do you test the HDD if the machine refuses to boot with it connected? Everything is less than 12 months old so should all still be under warranty.

 

Well, if the machine doesn't POST/boot up with the drive disconnected, it might be an issue such as the controller on the motherboard, but if it did, then you coulc theoretically check the HDD with bootable tools from the WD website.

http://support.wdc.com/product/download.as...606&lang=en

 

Edit: Data Lifeguard Diagnostic for DOS is what you would want, burn to a disk and boot it up and run a quick/long test on the drive.

Edited by p0is0n

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your last post is a little unclear, Im not sure if it doesn't work at all now, or just with the HDD connected that it doesn't work.

 

if it works again with the HDD unplugged, but the SSD connected, then that points to a faulty HDD to me. your machine will need to identify the device when it boots up, and if it can't do that it will usually hang or perform really slowly.

if it doesn't POST at all, no matter what's connected, might be motherboard related, but seems unlikely. try removing all HDDs and see if it POSTS then? if so, add your SSD again, then see if it POSTS?

 

what kind of HDD is it? you can download diagnostic tools from the manufacturers website (eg. WD tools) and run a quick/long check on the drive.

will usually confirm if there is an issue and if it's in warranty, it will probably let you know.

Thanks for the advice. I'm getting the POST error with the SSD connected but no HDD. I've removed the GPU and disconnected all MB header connections leaving only the CPU, RAM, SSD and power but will try again with the SSD disconnected. The HDD is WD caviar blue 1TB. How do you test the HDD if the machine refuses to boot with it connected? Everything is less than 12 months old so should all still be under warranty.

 

Well, if the machine doesn't POST/boot up with the drive disconnected, it might be an issue such as the controller on the motherboard, but if it did, then you coulc theoretically check the HDD with bootable tools from the WD website.

http://support.wdc.com/product/download.as...606&lang=en

 

Edit: Data Lifeguard Diagnostic for DOS is what you would want, burn to a disk and boot it up and run a quick/long test on the drive.

 

OK made some progress today. Had to remove all the RAM and insert one at a time but PC is now booting from SSD with all the RAM back in. I've left the GPU out for now and running of the CPU graphics. I've also purchased an external USB3 HDD enclosure and have set the WD HDD up in it. I can now boot the pc without the HDD and connect it once windows is up. When I connect the HDD it takes a long time to read it however it eventually shows drive E:\ connected. I've loaded the windows version of WD data lifeguard and it shows the drive passing the SMART status. I tried running the quick test and it stopped and offered to format the drive. I cancelled this and I'm now trying the extended test - so far it is progressing. I know very little about all this however I'm wondering if the drive is ok physically however the FAT is messed up somehow since it seems to want to format the drive?

 

your last post is a little unclear, Im not sure if it doesn't work at all now, or just with the HDD connected that it doesn't work.

 

if it works again with the HDD unplugged, but the SSD connected, then that points to a faulty HDD to me. your machine will need to identify the device when it boots up, and if it can't do that it will usually hang or perform really slowly.

if it doesn't POST at all, no matter what's connected, might be motherboard related, but seems unlikely. try removing all HDDs and see if it POSTS then? if so, add your SSD again, then see if it POSTS?

 

what kind of HDD is it? you can download diagnostic tools from the manufacturers website (eg. WD tools) and run a quick/long check on the drive.

will usually confirm if there is an issue and if it's in warranty, it will probably let you know.

Thanks for the advice. I'm getting the POST error with the SSD connected but no HDD. I've removed the GPU and disconnected all MB header connections leaving only the CPU, RAM, SSD and power but will try again with the SSD disconnected. The HDD is WD caviar blue 1TB. How do you test the HDD if the machine refuses to boot with it connected? Everything is less than 12 months old so should all still be under warranty.

 

Well, if the machine doesn't POST/boot up with the drive disconnected, it might be an issue such as the controller on the motherboard, but if it did, then you coulc theoretically check the HDD with bootable tools from the WD website.

http://support.wdc.com/product/download.as...606&lang=en

 

Edit: Data Lifeguard Diagnostic for DOS is what you would want, burn to a disk and boot it up and run a quick/long test on the drive.

 

OK made some progress today. Had to remove all the RAM and insert one at a time but PC is now booting from SSD with all the RAM back in. I've left the GPU out for now and running of the CPU graphics. I've also purchased an external USB3 HDD enclosure and have set the WD HDD up in it. I can now boot the pc without the HDD and connect it once windows is up. When I connect the HDD it takes a long time to read it however it eventually shows drive E:\ connected. I've loaded the windows version of WD data lifeguard and it shows the drive passing the SMART status. I tried running the quick test and it stopped and offered to format the drive. I cancelled this and I'm now trying the extended test - so far it is progressing. I know very little about all this however I'm wondering if the drive is ok physically however the FAT is messed up somehow since it seems to want to format the drive?

 

 

Test has just stopped saying "too many bad sectors detected" Guess that means it is toast? Do I go ahead and try formatting, try something else or go for RMA next?

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Test has just stopped saying "too many bad sectors detected" Guess that means it is toast? Do I go ahead and try formatting, try something else or go for RMA next?

It can sometimes give you the option to 'repair' it where it will mark all the bad sectors and not use them, but perhaps too many bad sectors means too many to do this and no chance to repair. I've repaired drives like this which previously seemed stuffed and used them for another year or longer. Yours may be beyond this though.

 

If it's within warranty, you can try taking it back to where you got it (within 12 months, they should replace it for you) or if it's within 13-24 months, you may need to send it back to WD in Malaysia which will cost about $20 min so it depends if it's worth it to you, or if you would prefer to just buy a new drive. One tip if you are returning it, pay for registration if you do this, I sent a drive back once and didn't pay for registration, never saw the thing again and they said they never received it, so I lost a drive and postage cost and time.

 

Does everything else seem okay now?

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Test has just stopped saying "too many bad sectors detected" Guess that means it is toast? Do I go ahead and try formatting, try something else or go for RMA next?

It can sometimes give you the option to 'repair' it where it will mark all the bad sectors and not use them, but perhaps too many bad sectors means too many to do this and no chance to repair. I've repaired drives like this which previously seemed stuffed and used them for another year or longer. Yours may be beyond this though.

 

If it's within warranty, you can try taking it back to where you got it (within 12 months, they should replace it for you) or if it's within 13-24 months, you may need to send it back to WD in Malaysia which will cost about $20 min so it depends if it's worth it to you, or if you would prefer to just buy a new drive. One tip if you are returning it, pay for registration if you do this, I sent a drive back once and didn't pay for registration, never saw the thing again and they said they never received it, so I lost a drive and postage cost and time.

 

Does everything else seem okay now?

 

Yep everything else seems normal - really stoked the memory/MB and Windows SSD seems to be performing normally . Not so concerned about the HDD however it had all the Origin/Steam game stuff on it so will have to download/start again. I'm now thinking a RAID 1 setup with two WD caviar black 1TB might be the way to go -am I on the right track or should I b looking at backing up to an external drive?

 

Thanks again for all the help.

 

Peter

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Test has just stopped saying "too many bad sectors detected" Guess that means it is toast? Do I go ahead and try formatting, try something else or go for RMA next?

It can sometimes give you the option to 'repair' it where it will mark all the bad sectors and not use them, but perhaps too many bad sectors means too many to do this and no chance to repair. I've repaired drives like this which previously seemed stuffed and used them for another year or longer. Yours may be beyond this though.

 

If it's within warranty, you can try taking it back to where you got it (within 12 months, they should replace it for you) or if it's within 13-24 months, you may need to send it back to WD in Malaysia which will cost about $20 min so it depends if it's worth it to you, or if you would prefer to just buy a new drive. One tip if you are returning it, pay for registration if you do this, I sent a drive back once and didn't pay for registration, never saw the thing again and they said they never received it, so I lost a drive and postage cost and time.

 

Does everything else seem okay now?

 

Yep everything else seems normal - really stoked the memory/MB and Windows SSD seems to be performing normally . Not so concerned about the HDD however it had all the Origin/Steam game stuff on it so will have to download/start again. I'm now thinking a RAID 1 setup with two WD caviar black 1TB might be the way to go -am I on the right track or should I b looking at backing up to an external drive?

 

Thanks again for all the help.

 

Peter

 

The problem with RAID is it is not a backup, it's just redundancy, so if one drive dies, you can still use it, but you have to replace the drive and rebuild the array. I would be more inclined to say get an external USB and do a weekly/monthly backup, and then if your internal drive dies, or the external usb drives, you can replace one or the other and restore/copy all the data and carry on, it's quite unlikely both will die at the same time.

 

I have a NAS which I backup to, which is another option, but it depends if you have any other uses for a NAS (tv shows/movies/etc) as this is getting more expensive than just an external drive. Others may have a better suggestion.

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OK - now got the new WD Caviar Black hard drive installed and all the Steam content downloaded again. Still have to download the Origin content. Also bought a second 1TB WD Caviar Black to backup to. Will be returning the original WD drive under warranty so should ultimately end up with another spare drive.

 

Just wondering the best way to backup the games files - any suggestions?

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