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st8smn

Yamaha xt600 powered fun machine

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So by popular demand (lol) I'm doing another dodgy build log which will no doubt end up just being a photo dump of progress pics.

 

To start with I wanted to build a buggy from scratch but while looking on Gumtree for bits n pieces I spotted a bare sidewinder frame for $300.

I rang up and met the guy at his workplace to buy the frame and he was nice enough to give me a few decent bits of 10mm flat bar scrap and a set of really old plans ( early 80's) .

 

This is the frame as I got it (without the seat or motor)

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The first thing to do was cut the 3mm checker plate floor and the dash out .

After that I realised the cockpit was rather cramped so I cut the whole thing in half and added 150mm.

The main hip rails had a 300mm piece of rollcage tube put through the join as a sleeve , then square tube over that.

Pic shows many straight edges tac welded on to keep it all aligned while welding back together.

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The previous owner said that the rear swing arm pivot pin bends under extreme load ,and we can't have that.

It originally only had the two outside mounts and all the weight of the buggy pivoting In between those two mounts. I decided a third mount in the middle was the go. I had to mod both frame and swing arm to achieve what I wanted . I couldn't be happier with the result.

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I fabricated a arms for the front according to the 1980's plans I was given only to find out (after buying current plans) that measurements have changed ... So I had to mod the a arms and stub axles to make it work. I will make new a arms either when I break these ones or when I get bored and turn this into a 1000cc independent rear suspension beast.

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Heaps of bits n pieces done without pics :(

 

Yesterday I welded in some cross bracing as a bit of driver protection and another under where the fuel tank will go.

 

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And a dummy fit of the front suspension.

 

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That's about it for now (and pic limit) , I'll post more pics of progress as it's made.

 

Cheers

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You sir are the best type of bogan :P

The ones with a welder and an engine. lol.

 

Always loved hearing about your projects. Look forward to seeing more!

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Hehe cheers

 

Thought it about Time I got out of the simulator and pulled some real G's.

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Wow this is awesome so you reinforced the swing with a 3rd, looks great, did it change the position on the frame? Meaning did you move all 3, kinda looks like the 2 outside not moved. Looks like a fun build :-)

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Wow this is awesome so you reinforced the swing with a 3rd, looks great, did it change the position on the frame? Meaning did you move all 3, kinda looks like the 2 outside not moved. Looks like a fun build :-)

Cheers

 

I only added the middle one ,the two outer ones were left unchanged .

 

Everything moves the same it's just stronger now.

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Guest xyzzy frobozz

Nice work man!

 

How much roughly does the chassis weigh with swing arm? Looks like the completed product will only weigh about 300kg wet!

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Nice work man!

 

How much roughly does the chassis weigh with swing arm? Looks like the completed product will only weigh about 300kg wet!

I wouldn't have a clue about just the frame but yeah 300kg wet sounds about what it should be.

 

300kg 47hp @5000rpm when tuned good , 140 kph or more with the right chain and cog combo , power to weight isn't the best but it should be enough to scare the shit outta me while on a bush track.

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keep your eye out for smashed Daihatsu Mira's. When you're ready to die, their 660CC 3Cyl isnt much bigger than what it looks like you're mounting.....

or.... you know.... the Turbo version from the Daihatsu MOVE from japan....

Edited by Master_Scythe

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keep your eye out for smashed Daihatsu Mira's. When you're ready to die, their 660CC 3Cyl isnt much bigger than what it looks like you're mounting.....

or.... you know.... the Turbo version from the Daihatsu MOVE from japan....

The thing is you'll always get a better power to weight ratio with a good bike engine (for this project anyway) because they are light.

 

If we step into the whole car engine thing ,a big turbo 6 or v8 all the way

 

Like so

 

 

Naturally aspirated Lexus v8

 

Edit- I can't see if the vid is there or not?

Edited by st8smn

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Suppose... but if power to weight is an issue, look for a crashed RX7. Rotary mah boy!

I'm a pushrod & piston kinda guy.

 

I respect the tech but it's not for me.

 

I'd even prefer a 2 stroke v8 outboard boat motor with an extreme set of expansion chambers .

 

 

Once again I can't see if vid link is working

Edited by st8smn

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yeah they are :) (vids)

 

when it comes to a gokart the weakness of rotary (economy) really goes out the window. You're welcome to like or dislike what you wish :P

But I just cant help but admire the pure simplicity:performance ratio; and as i said, the beg negative of fuel is kinda forgotten when its not a distance driven car.

Edited by Master_Scythe

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yeah they are :) (vids)

 

when it comes to a gokart the weakness of rotary (economy) really goes out the window. You're welcome to like or dislike what you wish :P

But I just cant help but admire the pure simplicity:performance ratio; and as i said, the beg negative of fuel is kinda forgotten when its not a distance driven car.

Don't get me wrong I have helped fit turbo 13b rotary's in a few speedboats and holy shit they fly also there is a 50hp single rotor Wankel engine that bolts straight onto a little clubman kart that I really really want.

But yeah...

The other issue with using a car engine (rotary or not) is the gearbox, unless you get a 300hp front wheel drive the trans axle box's needed to mount engine in rear can get quiet expensive. And with chain driven stuff you can change your acceleration/top speed by simply changing chain cogs rather than diff ratio's

 

The plans for the sidewinder call for a single cylinder bike engine up to 650cc otherwise it can get dangerous

 

Because the engine is mounted on the side of the frame it needs to be counter balanced with a fuel tank and battery.

So the bigger the engine the bigger the counterweight and overall weight goes up as well.

 

I actually have a zxr 250cc 4cyl road bike engine I wanted to drop in but it's just too heavy and the creator of the designs said to me I'll snap the axle because a roadbike 4cyl has too much torque within the 19,000 rpm rev range.

 

I do have a plan for an upgrade down the track ...

I just need to get the missus interested and then say you can have this one if I have permission to build a bigger better one...

 

We'll see how that works out...

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I cut and tacked in a 2mm checker plate floor today.

 

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I'm going to skin the inside of the cockpit with either aluminium sheet or fiberglass .

 

More to come ... Possibly today , we'll see how frisky I get.

 

EDIT-- we'll frisky I got...

 

Under each x brace I put several strips of foam/rubber stuff then clamped it all down and tacked it all in. Not 1 vibration noise by hitting with my fist or hammer and that's before fully welding.

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I have 2 PAC black ready to go as soon as fabrication is finished.

Edited by st8smn

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Yesterday I was busy fixing cars for friends but I did manage to cut out a checker plate kick panel.

 

I'm still unsure if I should weld the kick panel in or bolt it with socket head cap screws (Allen key bolts)

 

 

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Guest xyzzy frobozz

The other issue with using a car engine (rotary or not) is the gearbox, unless you get a 300hp front wheel drive the trans axle box's needed to mount engine in rear can get quiet expensive. And with chain driven stuff you can change your acceleration/top speed by simply changing chain cogs rather than diff ratio's

 

The plans for the sidewinder call for a single cylinder bike engine up to 650cc otherwise it can get dangerous

Thing with a car engines is it's designed to be pulling heavy loads, so consequently the engine and gearbox are heavier too. They're also designed to have a hell of a lot more torque than a MB engine so that they can pull all that weight aorund.

 

There's a reason that MB engines are all power and little torque and it's because they have nothing like the weight to pull.

 

In a kart weighing around 300kg, all that extra torque isn't required and will only serve to break things and compromise the handling.

 

So, with that in mind, how about this bad-boy:

 

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Hartley Hayabusa 2.8 litre V8.

 

;-)

Edited by xyzzy frobozz

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The other issue with using a car engine (rotary or not) is the gearbox, unless you get a 300hp front wheel drive the trans axle box's needed to mount engine in rear can get quiet expensive. And with chain driven stuff you can change your acceleration/top speed by simply changing chain cogs rather than diff ratio's

 

The plans for the sidewinder call for a single cylinder bike engine up to 650cc otherwise it can get dangerous

Thing with a car engines is it's designed to be pulling heavy loads, so consequently the engine and gearbox are heavier too. They're also designed to have a hell of a lot more torque than a MB engine so that they can pull all that weight aorund.

 

There's a reason that MB engines are all power and little torque and it's because they have nothing like the weight to pull.

 

In a kart weighing around 300kg, all that extra torque isn't required and will only serve to break things and compromise the handling.

 

So, with that in mind, how about this bad-boy:

 

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Hartley Hayabusa 2.8 litre V8.

 

;-)

 

That would be fucking sick ... In a rock crawler or similar as it has all the gear there for 4 wheel drive.

 

I'd need to modify the arse end and spend lotsa monies to fit anything bigger than 650cc single cylinder, which I do plan to do but not until I break this setup or get the ok from the missus to build one from scratch... It's only $15,000-$30,000 over 3-4 years and I'm guessing another $12,000-$16,000 just for that engine you posted?

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Today I scored a exhaust to suit a 2003 Harley Davidson softail for $50.

 

Whipped up some brackets and...

 

 

 

 

 

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Looks pretty kick-ass to me.

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Well that escalated quickly ...

 

 

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This is a different frame I just picked up cheap, electric assist power steering , sparco quick release steering boss , momo 12.5 inch steering wheel ,BMW IRS diff and the guy even gave me the bike lift.

 

This one will have a Kawasaki zx10r which I pickup in a few weeks.

 

So far the frame is confederation of Australian motor sport compliant and when/if ever finished will be able to run state and national races

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This is a different frame I just picked up cheap, electric assist power steering , sparco quick release steering boss , momo 12.5 inch steering wheel ,BMW IRS diff and the guy even gave me the bike lift.

 

This one will have a Kawasaki zx10r which I pickup in a few weeks.

 

So far the frame is confederation of Australian motor sport compliant and when/if ever finished will be able to run state and national races

Nice one especially with the chassis/bike lift bonus.

 

This is a different frame I just picked up cheap, electric assist power steering , sparco quick release steering boss , momo 12.5 inch steering wheel ,BMW IRS diff and the guy even gave me the bike lift.

 

This one will have a Kawasaki zx10r which I pickup in a few weeks.

 

So far the frame is confederation of Australian motor sport compliant and when/if ever finished will be able to run state and national races

Nice one especially with the chassis/bike lift bonus.

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This is a different frame I just picked up cheap, electric assist power steering , sparco quick release steering boss , momo 12.5 inch steering wheel ,BMW IRS diff and the guy even gave me the bike lift.

 

This one will have a Kawasaki zx10r which I pickup in a few weeks.

 

So far the frame is confederation of Australian motor sport compliant and when/if ever finished will be able to run state and national races

Nice one especially with the chassis/bike lift bonus.

 

 

Cheers mate, the cheapest bike lift of that design I could find new was just shy of $400 + freight , so yeah not bad for free .

 

To my dismay I've now had a chance to put a tape measure on the frame... Wish I didn't , no fancy measurements were taken.

10mm out here 20mm there ,most of it is spot on though thank fuck

I know I can fix it pretty easy but yeah didn't think I'd have to. Oh well :)

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10mm out here 20mm there ,most of it is spot on though thank fuck

I know I can fix it pretty easy but yeah didn't think I'd have to. Oh well :)

Damn cutting and shutting is never good.

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Hmm I know.

I figure if I can get all the suspension and engine is mounted square and true she'll be right, the rest is just aesthetics.

 

I do really wish I could un-see the tape measure though.

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Well I finally had a few days to get stuck into the new frame and am extremely happy to report

99% of the frame is now within 1mm and/or 0.2 degrees of being dead square/true ...much Better than the 35mm and 1.8 degrees out it was in the bad spots.

 

Here's a work in progress shot with the ass end cut off

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Progress is slow but progress none the less.

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