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Master_Scythe

Lets Talk Cars!

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Interesting that you found a Projecta C400 so recently stadl, it is indeed exactly as you describe it. This little SCA is also 4amp, the C400 happily charged up the wife's battery overnight. My mate does not recall how old his is but he was kinda happy to find it when he was looking here in Oz, he had one back on his farm in NZ and it was often pressed into service to revive the batteries in annual use farm equipment. That sort of says big batteries to me :)

 

 

It's a current model on their website

http://www.projecta.com.au/Products/BatteryChargers/Pro-Charge.aspx#!prettyPhoto

 

I think I bought mine from autopro.

 

The elise battery is not easy to get to so I have the terminal lead permanently connected and just hook it up when required. Although I plan to change the connector to an anderson plug or powerpole, as the Projecta uses an old Motorola radio style power connector, that's not easy to come by.

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:)

 

Same model number, looks nothing like my mate's one :)

 

Dunno, the impression I had at Super Cheap was that they were phasing out Projecta in favor of their own brand and another one that I'd never heard of.

 

In all honesty whilst obviously Super Cheap branded stuff is all Chinese I seem to have bought quite a bit with the SCA label and it's all been good. forgot to mention that my web search had suggested that I was going to be spending around $100 for a charger, the quite knowledgeable guy at SCA and this conversation has convinced me that would have been over-kill :)

 

My wife, or rather her car, did score a car cover out of the trip and I still had change from that $100, the cover cost less than a trip to the car cleaner so can hardly go wrong. As I said, car has not been driven in a while so covered in dust :)

 

Cheers

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I always worry about car covers, once the dust and grit gets up underneath them it causes all sorts of terribleness.

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I sort of agree on that Gas Lee but in this particular case it will not be being taken on and off much, which is when the problem can happen, It's also a pretty good cover, soft interior, should be ok.

 

Cheers

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I used to have a cover for my EF wagon, it was made of.... Tyvek, I think? That papery-feeling material that's actually super strong and waterproof.

 

It was extremely light, I preferred that to a heavy neoprene cover that would rest and rub against the panels.

 

Granted, no protection against hail, but still a perfect barrier against tree sap, bird poo, leaves, etc.

 

Edit: Yep, Tyvek: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tyvek

 

The same stuff they make music festival arm bands from.

Edited by SquallStrife

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:)

 

I think we ignored Squall that that is one nice looking shiny car - not my style but, nice :)

 

I'm not a fan of car covers really but if a car sits doing nothing for a year or two, as in the case, can't hurt is my rationale.

 

It has as a result of this thread struck me that my car is so far overdue for a service that it is not funny - try two plus years - hmm, yet I go check the oil and there is good level and it its clean on the stick, no fluids are low, I do think the plugs might be getting a bit in need of a clean, but honestly, is it distressed ?

 

Nup - will be in this week for a major though, I refuse to mess with brakes and the pads do need replacing :)

 

Brakes are one thing that I avoid, mostly because the fluid is just ugly, ugly stuff :)

 

Can't say I'm a fan of clutches either but if you owned a Mustang, back in the 70s and you had any inclination to drop it at the lights you became used to doing clutch plates - guilty :)

 

Cheers

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Brake fluid? I can deal with. Dont get it on the paint, but it doesnt seem to bother my skin or smell bad....

Now gearbox oil, thats another beasty.

 

Last night just replaced my front rotors, new 4Pot brakes\pads, and went back from DOT5.1 to DOT4plus fluid, because my ABS system didnt like the super thin viscosity of the Dot5.1.

 

 

If the oil looks clean, that's usually bad.

No engine runs clean in a passenger vehicle, Clean oil means not enough Calcium Sulfonate, as nothing is taking the soot and grime away from the engine parts and into the oil.

It's almost never the oil you have to worry about being old, its the additive package breaking down after 6 months.

 

Go throw $65 and half an hour at it.

- Ryco Oil Filter ($15)

- Gulf Western TopDog XDO ($20) (absolute cheapest oil with a known track record for reliability)

- Air Filter ($15)

- NGK plugs gapped to 0.8 ($15)

 

Even if your car specifies a '-11' plug, all this means is 1.1mm gap. Since you're not checking your plug gap, get the 0.8mm and have some 'wear room'.

Edited by Master_Scythe

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:)

 

Probably a bad word to use by me M_S, the oil is black but perfectly slippery and the level is right.

 

My car is a Peugeot, 307, Euros have slightly different preferences I've always found, the oil filter, no problem, the only oil I ever use and I'm talking well over 30 years is Penrite, HPR10, air filter whatever, plugs I have been using Lodge too long to change now and I always gap them :)

 

Cheers

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Mums car is a peugeot 307 also, I'm very familiar with them :)

It specs a -11 plug, and I run the 0.8's, she's a daily driver and I dont expect mum to check her plug condition every few months.

She was using ELF oil, as its euro for a while, until I got her onto HPR5.

 

I'm pretty sure they specify a 5w-30 oil from factory; going up to a 50W is quite a big jump for a modern car with small oil clearances, HPR5 is a 5w-40, so still thicker, but not by too much.

The additive package (Zinc and Phosphorous) in HPR5 is well above whats found in HPR10 too.

 

 

Still; 2 years? GO SERVICE YOUR CAR *shakes fist* :P

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Hmm,

 

I should clarify, 12 months of that the car had very little use, but it does have a lot of ks on it hence my mechanic recommending the heavier oil.

 

I do know though, time to get servicing :)

 

Cheers

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a lot of K's is never a reason to 'go thicker' just because.

Especially 20W worth of thicker. that 'Plus 10' Penrite does is just so they can high dose Zinc legally, since there is no SAE requirements for their label system. (i love them too, but they need logic to use them, not their own guidebook).

 

Look at the MSDS between what you're using, and what the Factory oil is. MSDS should have viscoscity at 40*C and at 100*C, you'll be SHOCKED how much thicker a 50W (especially penrite, a VERY heavy 50W, almost a 60), than the stock fill.

 

I'm all for going ONE oil weight heaver in high K cars, more often than not there's no harm, but an extra 20W is a lot.

 

Still, your car, your mechanic, my obsession; I'm not the boss just very opinionated from years on the BITOG forums. :P

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:)

 

Dunno, I'll have to ask him, he's a really really good mechanic, Swiss, used to work at Peugeot before he emigrated. The only reason I don't take the car to him for the routine stuff is that he is quite a distance from me and in a very inconvenient location to leave it with him. I make the effort for any major work though.

 

Cheers

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