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Mysticizm

Monitor not turning on and PC power weirdness

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Hey guys. Ive posted b4 about this power problem under the name SPANKdMONKe. Cant remember password but anyway...

When i turn my PC on sometimes it doesnt come on. My PC plug is in a 2 way safety adaptor, thats plugged into a 4 way power adaptor. to turn my PC on i have to put the 2 way adaptor half way into the 4 way until it gets enough power and comes on, then i can push the 2 way all the way into the 4 way. It feels unsafe, I can here the electricity static when i do this.
I think last time ppl said it doesnt have enough power?

Also, just recently my ASUS monitor isnt coming on. I really hope its not my monitor, but ive taken it out of my GFX card and put it into the motherboard input. Its working now, so maybe my GFX card? or maybe its the "not enough power thing"?

 

My PC is abit old now, maybe June 2011 (predicting from my 1st post on here) but my GFX card is about half that old

Edited by Mysticizm

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How can it claim to be a "safety adaptor" if you get arcing sound and all the other stuff?

 

Many mid to high end cards these days need extra power by the auxilliary sockets on the side, and accordingly the overall power supply requirement for the PC itself will be somewhat higher.

But in my experience, leave the plugs out and the card will still generate a static text screen reminding you to plug in the extra needed power.

 

First up I'd be plugging the thing into a normal wall outlet. Unless you're running off some dodgy generator or are on a really shitty part of the grid or get thunderstorms almost nightly, there shouldn't be need for this other stuff.

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Alright, so after i read this post, i powered off PC. I took out the 2 way adaptor and just put my PC and monitor into the 4 way power adaptor. Same thing happened, i couldnt start my PC unless the PC plug was half way into the 4 way adaptor. This is a new 4 way adaptor because i thought my old one might of been the problem. So it doesnt seem so (since its doing the same thing)

 

My monitor did turn on (but thats probably cause its not in the GFX card)

 

So im feeling its either a motherboard problem or a PSU problem. I thought i got a really good PSU... maybe just not enough power....?

 

The 2 way adaptor is a Belkin that says on it "total load not to exceed 10A 2400W"

Edited by Mysticizm

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Maybe your graphics card is just dead?

 

10 Amps / 2400 W is standard max load fpr a normal household power outlet.

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Yeah i just turned on MSI Afterburner and it looks like my GFX isnt working.
Tomorrow i might undo PC give it a clean reapply thermal paste and all that.

 

How do i know if its a MB/PSU/GFX problem? Do you think its time for me to upgrade MB/CPU/PSU? I thought the PSU was going to last me through 2 builds

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I'm fairly sure nVidia cards as well as ATI/AMD will display a message if you attempt startup without the aux power connected.

 

It might be worth trying that out - in that configuration it's working in a minimal sort of way. If it doesn't work in that setup then good chance it's failed.

Of course it's always handy to be able to try a suspect card in another machine, definately before forking out for a new one.

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Its PSU. Without a doubt. If you read your own post, there's more than just monitor output thats not working, and all your descriptions go back to playing with electricity; arcing does some funny stuff thanks to spark gap.

 

Its my first port of call. Not everyone realises working a device from too little power can often be more damaging than overworking it.

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I used to have a buzz in my computer when you played certain games I had a 650 watt power supply,I then put in a 900 watt power supply I had five fans for cooling because I thought it was heat the 900 watt power supply fixed it a works like a charm

and discode 2 fans as it did'nt need them and it runs as cool as.


I used to have a buzz in my computer when you played certain games I had a 650 watt power supply,I then put in a 900 watt power supply I had five fans for cooling because I thought it was heat the 900 watt power supply fixed it a works like a charm

and discode 2 fans as it did'nt need them and it runs as cool as.

Life was'nt meant to be easy

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I cleaned out my PC, it had dog dirt and dust in it, was pretty dirty. It seems to be fixed now. I think cleaning the built up dust off areas specifically around the gfx PCB where solders and metal are close to eachother, probably helped the most. When i turn my PC on now it turns on maybe 97% of the time without that arching stuff. Before it was the opposite, 97% always arching. GFX card and monitor are also working.

Edited by Mysticizm

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I cleaned out my PC, it had dog dirt and dust in it, was pretty dirty. It seems to be fixed now. I think cleaning the built up dust off areas specifically around the gfx PCB where solders and metal are close to eachother, probably helped the most. When i turn my PC on now it turns on maybe 97% of the time without that arching stuff. Before it was the opposite, 97% always arching. GFX card and monitor are also working.

 

Yes, dust is electrostatic, and can be just like a super shit solder

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Its playing up again already, My monitor isnt detecting the GFX card HDMI but it does detect Mobo gfx. The Pc turns on about 70% of the time without putting the plug halfway in.

Should i get a Corsair HX-750i ATX 80+ Platinum 7yr warranty ($225) PSU 1st? See if that works?
If it doesnt, ill look at upgrading mobo/cpu to ASUS h97-PLUS ($159) i5-4660 ($265) aswell. That seems to use the same DDR3 Ram that i already have so thats good.

I do want to get Windows 10 so i dunno if that matters with h97-PLUS?

 

Or i guess i could look for a 2nd hand mobo that i already have now (p8Z68-v) because i dont have a problem with my pc if only it would work properly.

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Have you tried another power cable? I'm a tiny bit confused as to why your PSU is arcing, is it the 240v end that goes into your 4-way powerboard or the 240v end into the PSU? Does it do it with another cable?

 

If the onboard/,mobo graphics work then there's no need to upgrade it, your graphics card sounds like it's dead/dying. It's super simple to swap it out for almost any other graphics card so long as it's the same physical size as the one you've got now. The R3 seems to support any card up to 290mm (29cm) long.

http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/discontinued-products/define-r3-black-pearl

 

Take out your current graphics totally, and see if the PSU still does the arcing.

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is it the 240v end that goes into your 4-way powerboard or the 240v end into the PSU? Does it do it with another cable?

 

If the onboard/,mobo graphics work then there's no need to upgrade it, your graphics card sounds like it's dead/dying. It's super simple to swap it out for almost any other graphics card so long as it's the same physical size as the one you've got now. The R3 seems to support any card up to 290mm (29cm) long.

http://www.fractal-design.com/home/product/cases/discontinued-products/define-r3-black-pearl

 

Take out your current graphics totally, and see if the PSU still does the arcing.

Its the end that goes into powerboard.

 

Ive taken my GFX card out and its not arching anymore but i dont think its done that since it stopped working.

I also tried my GFX in my mums PC that i made for her, the PC didnt even start up, not sure if its because her PSU probably isnt powerful enough (cant remember the Watts) or if GFX Card is dead.

So i took it out and now her PC didnt start. Took out her power cord from PC, put it back in, noticed an arching sound and now it (her PC) works as normal.

 

Ive had a couple random times when my PC just went black screened for 5 seconds then came back. this was when my GFX was still on my PC but not working. (maybe mobo or PSU problem)

 

Im still uncertain as what to upgrade here, i guess GFX card, and if it doesnt work then i sell my old one and try PSU or Mobo/CPU?

Would this be the logical way to go?

Edited by Mysticizm

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my corsair tx 750 would make a arcing electricity sound under heavy load before it died

i sent it of for rma

maybe you should do away with the power boards\adapters try some others in a different power point

cheap power boards have a nasty habit of starting house fires

Edited by Dasa
  • Like 1

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So changing the plug to the wall, to a different wall inlet in my house fixed the problem up until now. Monitor sometimes doesnt turn on unless i take out the plug and drain the PC by holding power button down.
Im gonna try a new PSU.

 

Which of these do you think is better?
$119 1yr warranty - SeaSonic 650W OEM V3 80Plus Gold PSU
$99 3yr warranty - Corsair CX-500M Modular ATX Power Supply,80 PLUS Bronze, 120mm fan, 2x PCI-E, 6x SATA, 4

 

I would like to save electricity so Gold would be better right? but isnt 650W too much? i dont get that part.

Edited by Mysticizm

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Wattage on the sticker has practically nothing to do with electricity use.

 

Both would use about the same. Other components being alike, it comes down to how efficient the power supply is, generally you'll realise wastage as heat though that can be hard to judge since PSUs generally intake air from inside the case.

 

Always best though to work out rough power requirements then add at least 20% - a power supply constantly working at 90% or more of it's capacity will likely die early.

 

In the modern day in any case, stated wattage means little. What you want to know is how much amperage it can supply on the 12V part. All the heavy use (CPU and graphics) is via that rail. The remainder is trivial.

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They're both Seasonic below the cover, so whicver you like the besd.

 

Corsair looks better on paper

going by these its cwt

http://www.eteknix.com/corsair-cx500m-semi-modular-power-supply/4/

but there is no mention of v2 v3 ect here so maybe the v3 is seasonic?

http://www.realhardtechx.com/index_archivos/Page447.htm

 

some other seasonic made psu with 5y warranty

Antec HCG-520M 520W High Current Gamer 'Modular' 80Plus Bronze $104

Antec TPC-550 Gold $117

XFX XTR 550W Series Gold Modular $129

 

your current psu should still be under warranty i think but it may take a while to test and come back if it is at fault

Edited by Dasa

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They're both Seasonic below the cover

Ah, i didnt know that.. cool

Corsair seems more popular and i like the 3yr warranty

Also wouldnt mind trying a "different" brand

 

Wattage on the sticker has practically nothing to do with electricity use.

Both would use about the same. Other components being alike, it comes down to how efficient the power supply is, generally you'll realise wastage as heat though that can be hard to judge since PSUs generally intake air from inside the case.

Always best though to work out rough power requirements then add at least 20% - a power supply constantly working at 90% or more of it's capacity will likely die early.

In the modern day in any case, stated wattage means little. What you want to know is how much amperage it can supply on the 12V part. All the heavy use (CPU and graphics) is via that rail. The remainder is trivial.

I tried 2 PSU calculators got 390W for one and 440W and 610W if i upgraded cpu mobo gfx

I do like how the Seasonic is OEM, meaning its worth more as retail...

idk, 20% more seems higher then the Corsair gives

The seasonic psu i have now has lasted more then 3 yrs...

Ill prolly get Seasonic :?

 

EDIT: the ones Dasa mentioned arnt in my store (umart gold coast)

Also i think my umart only gave my current psu a 12 month return

Edited by Mysticizm

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umart is dodgy like that if you visit them in store they may take care of it for you otherwise your probably looking at ~$70 post to ship it back to seasonic which offers a 7y warranty on it

 

the antec psu are in stock at umart milton they will simply transfer stock when you order

https://www.umart.com.au/umart1/pro/Products_list.phtml?id=10&bid=2&id2=140&name=Power%20Supply

the xfx psu are only available from pccg who wont hassle you with that 1y warranty bs umart does

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Yea umart sucks for this. But if i bought from pccg and had to send it back id be paying for shipping still.
Those XFX's look nice

 

EDIT: i found a $99 SeaSonic 550W OEM V3 80Plus Gold (1yr warranty) on the Milton store
Wouldnt that be best?

Edited by Mysticizm

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shipping to melb is a lot cheaper than shipping to china it cost me $80 to send back a corsair tx 750

 

i think the oem parts are a cheaper\lower quality version of the antec true power classic

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Still havnt bought it yet but
Just thought of something, to check Asus Suite II...
+12v is running at 12.1v
+5v is running at 5v
+3.3v is running at 3.3v

So maybe an old MB issue...?

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