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Mr.Twinkie

My computer sometimes shut down in startup boot. But the second time always works!

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So yeah exactly what it says in the title. Before it hits the windows screen in boot, sometimes it'll just power down. But the second time I try always does the charm and the Windows will boot accordingly.

 

Is it a PSU issue? cable issue? I know jack about those things tbh.

 

I did upgrade to a R9 390 earlier this year but I plugged in the right pin cables as far as I know. Though I still feeling that my performance should be slightly better than what it is now as I face a lot of stuttering across all games.

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I'd actually bet its software.

Likely a graphics card or disk controller driver, trying to boot in its 'fast' mode, or some sort of modified setting, failing, and booting to 'default' the next time.

 

There's a very easy way to test this; If you burn a copy of Linux onto a Live CD (Puppy is small, for example, or Ubuntu for the most popular).

 

You'll then put the CD (or USB in), and look up what your key is for 'boot menu'.

 

Boot up, pushing the boot menu, and instead of windows (on the HDD) select the USB\CD drive. This will boot into linux instead.

 

If this clean boots, with no 'reset' you can then instantly assume hardware is not the issue. Its a driver issue (nothing but kernel drivers and other low level stuff has loaded by that point, so it wont be a normal 'program', it'll be low level; driver, system tool, antivirus, something).

 

Hope that makes sense!

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Some boards esp Gigabyte will do that if you change certain Bios settings, ie on the subsequent boot will get to early in the POST sequence then power down for up to a second then start again.

 

But yep, if it's doing it for no apparent reason it's a good idea to test if it's the OS or other cause.

A quicker/easier way for an alternate boot source is to just create a bootable flash drive with a Memtest86 ISO http://memtest.org/

Use the Rufus tool to create it https://rufus.akeo.ie/

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my netbook recently developed a habit of not booting first go, I reinstalled the nVidia drivers (CLEAN INSTALL) to the new version without that nVidia Experience thing.

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I'd actually bet its software.

Likely a graphics card or disk controller driver, trying to boot in its 'fast' mode, or some sort of modified setting, failing, and booting to 'default' the next time.

 

There's a very easy way to test this; If you burn a copy of Linux onto a Live CD (Puppy is small, for example, or Ubuntu for the most popular).

 

You'll then put the CD (or USB in), and look up what your key is for 'boot menu'.

 

Boot up, pushing the boot menu, and instead of windows (on the HDD) select the USB\CD drive. This will boot into linux instead.

 

If this clean boots, with no 'reset' you can then instantly assume hardware is not the issue. Its a driver issue (nothing but kernel drivers and other low level stuff has loaded by that point, so it wont be a normal 'program', it'll be low level; driver, system tool, antivirus, something).

 

Hope that makes sense!

That makes sense for the most part.

One of those things I'll probably have to do myself in order to fully understand it.

 

I feel like I may as just reinstall my Windows 10 and reformat my drives to AHCI mode. There's just so many little abstract issues I'm facing including itunes and firefox freezing for like 30 seconds taking up 30% CPU usage each when i start them. I may start another thread to explore my performance and visual issues into more detail. My thermal paste hasn't been redone for at least 5 years. Maybe i should do that. This gaming stutter (microlag as the camera travels) and subpar performance that dips across games like Company of Heroes or Operation Flashpoint Cold War Crisis is really bothering me.

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AHCI has nothing to do with formatting. It's the mode/command set that the controller is able to use for the drive.

Non-AHCI = legacy IDE emulation, AHCI = extra commands like TRIM, and nice stuff like proper NCQ which can help speed up mechanical drives.

 

There's methods to be able to change from legacy to AHCI on the fly - a registry hack followed by reboot into Bios, change the settings then reboot again. Worth a look. Though it's probably worth a reinstall of Windows if the mystery restart thing keeps going on.

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From Windows 7 and onward, theres no need for the registry hack, it'll bluescreen twice after the switch, but assuming the chipset drivers are available, it'll just work on the 3rd boot.

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We've found that win 10 installs over win 7 often have strange issues, but clean 10 installs don't. So when we install a new pc, we plunk in a clean 10 install.

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Sorry for lateness and appreciate all the feedback. I'm planning to do a reinstall of Windows 10 just to clear some software and start fresh to further eliminate some possibilities.

 

Now I'm just deciding whether to do a quick reinstall of Windows 10 or a clean one where all the software/app settings are gone and I can repartition the drives and etc.

 

I noticed in my safely removable drives shown on the bottom right, ALL MY HDDs and the SSDs are shown in the diagram tree lol.

 

I remember updating my drivers with one of them driver update utilities and then it turns out my Samsung performance fixer for the 820 EVO series can't do its thing anymore but I assume thats because it was fixed when i downloaded and installed Samsung Magician. UGH NOW I WISH I DIDNT GO SAMSUNG.

Edited by Mr.Twinkie

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I noticed in my safely removable drives shown on the bottom right, ALL MY HDDs and the SSDs are shown in the diagram tree lol.

 

Thats correct. They'll be SATA and support Hot Swapping.

Thats one of the benefits of SATA, unplug and plug while powered up :)

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